After Head gasket job
#1
08-09-2013, 04:57 PM
After Head gasket job
Well my head gasket job might not be a success as I had hoped...
About a month ago I changed head gaskets. I actually did a mess of things...
Head gaskets,
valley pan gasket
intake gasket
cleaned Throttle body
completely disassembled heads, cleaned, new seals
some new hoses
new TB heater
New Head Bolts (2 missing out of the package...yes that's correct)
Flushed rad
Timing chain cover gasket
Water Pump gasket
New Pass exhaust manifold, ceramic coated both exhaust manifolds...
New plugs
New wires
Changed oil
Even painted the valve covers white to match the truck...
Watching the Ultragauge at idle it goes to about 206.6, driving it drops to 199. I have heat. After a day or two, it starts running hot, 210-220 while sitting...when you take the cap off the reservoir it feeds back into the reservoir and boils out over the hole. Today it went to 240 and my wife had to pull over and shut it off.
No Leaks.
The thermostat is about a year old. It is the 195° stat. I am going to buy the 180° stat.
The coolant seems to be going somewhere. The exhaust is dry, no smell of coolant, no sign of coolant on the outside or a leak.
Electric fan works
Fan clutch has drag so I would think its good. It spins at a good clip when the truck is warmed up.
So I don't have any coolant leaking out, something MIGHT be pushing it out the reservoir overflow hose, when I pop the hood and watch it, I find myself there for an hour wondering what else I could be doing.
I really don't think its the rad. I removed the tanks, cleaned out the core and put the tanks back on. (Radiator shop training) Radiator was then dipped and tested to 18 pounds, no leaks.
I did purchase green coolant and am thinking about taking the dexcool out.
What would you do?
About a month ago I changed head gaskets. I actually did a mess of things...
Head gaskets,
valley pan gasket
intake gasket
cleaned Throttle body
completely disassembled heads, cleaned, new seals
some new hoses
new TB heater
New Head Bolts (2 missing out of the package...yes that's correct)
Flushed rad
Timing chain cover gasket
Water Pump gasket
New Pass exhaust manifold, ceramic coated both exhaust manifolds...
New plugs
New wires
Changed oil
Even painted the valve covers white to match the truck...
Watching the Ultragauge at idle it goes to about 206.6, driving it drops to 199. I have heat. After a day or two, it starts running hot, 210-220 while sitting...when you take the cap off the reservoir it feeds back into the reservoir and boils out over the hole. Today it went to 240 and my wife had to pull over and shut it off.
No Leaks.
The thermostat is about a year old. It is the 195° stat. I am going to buy the 180° stat.
The coolant seems to be going somewhere. The exhaust is dry, no smell of coolant, no sign of coolant on the outside or a leak.
Electric fan works
Fan clutch has drag so I would think its good. It spins at a good clip when the truck is warmed up.
So I don't have any coolant leaking out, something MIGHT be pushing it out the reservoir overflow hose, when I pop the hood and watch it, I find myself there for an hour wondering what else I could be doing.
I really don't think its the rad. I removed the tanks, cleaned out the core and put the tanks back on. (Radiator shop training) Radiator was then dipped and tested to 18 pounds, no leaks.
I did purchase green coolant and am thinking about taking the dexcool out.
What would you do?
#2
08-09-2013, 08:39 PM
Super Moderator
#3
08-10-2013, 08:58 AM
Administrator
Big mistake re-using old head bolts, even 2 of them
Always change the t/stat when doing this job, should switch to a 180 degree.
How did you test the viscus and be specific?
How many miles on the radiator, if in the 100,000 to 120,000 range it will be partially plugged and can not be cleaned out.
Always change the t/stat when doing this job, should switch to a 180 degree.
How did you test the viscus and be specific?
How many miles on the radiator, if in the 100,000 to 120,000 range it will be partially plugged and can not be cleaned out.
#4
08-10-2013, 09:18 AM
Super Moderator
If viscous clutch spins freely when truck warmed up, like for than 1 revolution when released, then fluid is gone, and it can't provide adequate cooling at slow speed and idle.
I did not understand the missing bolts, thought you ordered more. Some will say they can be re-used if tested for how far they have deformed (yielded). But best to use new bolts.
I do like the 180F stat. But Mike brings up an important point, the small holes in the top of the stat are easily clogged with trash freed up during all this chaos under the hood. Those holes bring the sample of hot coolant into the stat to determine when it shall open.
I've always told people that the aluminum with plastic tanks are not cost effective to rod out. Have tools and methods changed to make that an old school idea (old, like me)? One way to eval radiator is to measure temp on fins top to bottom, truck warm, engine off. More than 10F means something is clogging radiator lower rows, which will be cooler. Notice how in this one pictured the calcium deposits go up a number of rows. High enough, and that cooler air on the faceplate of the fan clutch can delay a good clutch coming back to full power when it should.
If you are having coolant loss, no white smoke, overheat from loss of coolant (not cracked block, your chemical test will confirm that by changing color), and oil is not getting extra full every day you drive it (leak to oil)... then that leaves external leak that can be found by coolant pressure tester (borrow from parts store), or the coolant cap (made wimpy by exposure to Dexcool) venting at way less than 15-18 psi. A coolant cap can vent while driving, and with underhood temp it is dry when you get home. A paper towel can be zip tied to detect the venting.
Pix of stat, don't reverse the two upper hoses, and what can be achieved with the 180F stat.
I did not understand the missing bolts, thought you ordered more. Some will say they can be re-used if tested for how far they have deformed (yielded). But best to use new bolts.
I do like the 180F stat. But Mike brings up an important point, the small holes in the top of the stat are easily clogged with trash freed up during all this chaos under the hood. Those holes bring the sample of hot coolant into the stat to determine when it shall open.
I've always told people that the aluminum with plastic tanks are not cost effective to rod out. Have tools and methods changed to make that an old school idea (old, like me)? One way to eval radiator is to measure temp on fins top to bottom, truck warm, engine off. More than 10F means something is clogging radiator lower rows, which will be cooler. Notice how in this one pictured the calcium deposits go up a number of rows. High enough, and that cooler air on the faceplate of the fan clutch can delay a good clutch coming back to full power when it should.
If you are having coolant loss, no white smoke, overheat from loss of coolant (not cracked block, your chemical test will confirm that by changing color), and oil is not getting extra full every day you drive it (leak to oil)... then that leaves external leak that can be found by coolant pressure tester (borrow from parts store), or the coolant cap (made wimpy by exposure to Dexcool) venting at way less than 15-18 psi. A coolant cap can vent while driving, and with underhood temp it is dry when you get home. A paper towel can be zip tied to detect the venting.
Pix of stat, don't reverse the two upper hoses, and what can be achieved with the 180F stat.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 08-10-2013 at 09:29 AM.
#5
08-11-2013, 09:42 PM
OK...Update...but not really fixed any.
I ordered the 180° stat. Waiting for that to come in.
When it does, I will be changing over to the green coolant as well.
Today day three, we drove it about 5 miles. I noticed the temp now while driving was 206.6°. It didn't go down while I drove like the day before.
We parked at Lowe's and the temp started shooting up. I opened the bleeder in the "T" pipe and it started shooting air and steam. I also opened the cap and the reservoir filled back up with coolant and could have overflowed.
How would I know if the combustion gases are going into the coolant? Wouldn't the pressure build up and blow out the cap?
I still have no leaks under the truck.
I did notice the fan spun freely but the truck was warmed up, when its cold I should get some resistance? Shouldn't the fan NOT want to turn? When its cold? When its hot?
I did point my laser temp gun at the rad and it is the same temp throughout. I am really thinking its NOT the rad since I had the tanks off and cleaned the core with high pressure air and water. I could see through the core to the other side.
I did NOT shave my heads. I did NOT use gasket sealer on the valley gasket. I didn't see that thread until after I put the truck back together. My valley gasket fit, but not perfectly, the holes didn't line up like I would have liked them too but the bolt holes did line up and the runner openings weren't restricted.
I ordered the 180° stat. Waiting for that to come in.
When it does, I will be changing over to the green coolant as well.
Today day three, we drove it about 5 miles. I noticed the temp now while driving was 206.6°. It didn't go down while I drove like the day before.
We parked at Lowe's and the temp started shooting up. I opened the bleeder in the "T" pipe and it started shooting air and steam. I also opened the cap and the reservoir filled back up with coolant and could have overflowed.
How would I know if the combustion gases are going into the coolant? Wouldn't the pressure build up and blow out the cap?
I still have no leaks under the truck.
I did notice the fan spun freely but the truck was warmed up, when its cold I should get some resistance? Shouldn't the fan NOT want to turn? When its cold? When its hot?
I did point my laser temp gun at the rad and it is the same temp throughout. I am really thinking its NOT the rad since I had the tanks off and cleaned the core with high pressure air and water. I could see through the core to the other side.
I did NOT shave my heads. I did NOT use gasket sealer on the valley gasket. I didn't see that thread until after I put the truck back together. My valley gasket fit, but not perfectly, the holes didn't line up like I would have liked them too but the bolt holes did line up and the runner openings weren't restricted.
#6
08-11-2013, 09:45 PM
#7
08-11-2013, 10:11 PM
And while I was sitting in lowes I had to add more than a gallon of water.
It's mostly water right now...where could it be going? Over a gallon since Friday? It's NOT in the crankcase. Wouldn't the exhaust be wet feeling if it was burning it? It doesn't smoke either.
Tomorrow I might pull the plugs if its cold when I get home from work.
I might put the scope down the intake runners too...
If a motor is burning coolant or water doesn't the combustion chamber get really clean? Like a steam clean?
It's mostly water right now...where could it be going? Over a gallon since Friday? It's NOT in the crankcase. Wouldn't the exhaust be wet feeling if it was burning it? It doesn't smoke either.
Tomorrow I might pull the plugs if its cold when I get home from work.
I might put the scope down the intake runners too...
If a motor is burning coolant or water doesn't the combustion chamber get really clean? Like a steam clean?
#8
08-12-2013, 12:54 AM
Super Moderator
So you did a head gasket job - but did not have heads machined? If not machined, were they checked for flatness with proper tools to be sure they were within .002 inch?
Fan should feel like peanut butter inside when cold. When engine hot, and off, spin and release fan. It should stop in under one revolution.
Burning a gallon of coolant makes white smoke. You have eliminated oil pan getting full of coolant. That leaves external leak. Shove some clean cardboard under it. Zip tie a paper towel to the overflow for the coolant bottle (cap could be peeing while driving).
What year is this truck? D2's had the aluminum radiator. D1's had the three row brass and copper radiaor with metal side tanks you un-solder.
Borrow a coolant pressure tetser and pump up to 15 PSI and wait to see your leaks.
As for bubbles gas in the coolant, sounds like you have not bled yours completely. Do it cold, release coolant jug and raise it high as you can, and keep bleeder valve open to let out bubbles, there can be many.
If you think it is exhaust gas, there is a $50 ish test for that, a liquid changes color when exposed to coolant with bubbles in it. Does like 15 tests.
Fan should feel like peanut butter inside when cold. When engine hot, and off, spin and release fan. It should stop in under one revolution.
Burning a gallon of coolant makes white smoke. You have eliminated oil pan getting full of coolant. That leaves external leak. Shove some clean cardboard under it. Zip tie a paper towel to the overflow for the coolant bottle (cap could be peeing while driving).
What year is this truck? D2's had the aluminum radiator. D1's had the three row brass and copper radiaor with metal side tanks you un-solder.
Borrow a coolant pressure tetser and pump up to 15 PSI and wait to see your leaks.
As for bubbles gas in the coolant, sounds like you have not bled yours completely. Do it cold, release coolant jug and raise it high as you can, and keep bleeder valve open to let out bubbles, there can be many.
If you think it is exhaust gas, there is a $50 ish test for that, a liquid changes color when exposed to coolant with bubbles in it. Does like 15 tests.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 08-12-2013 at 12:59 AM.
#9
08-12-2013, 09:57 AM
You shouldn't open the bleeder at temp. The system is under pressure, raising the boiling point of the coolant. When you open the bleeder you release the pressure, lowering the boiling point, flashing off steam.
When you filled the system did you bleed the system correctly? when cold raise the overflow tank, open the bleeder. Keep the tank full and wait until no more air comes out of the bleeder.
When you filled the system did you bleed the system correctly? when cold raise the overflow tank, open the bleeder. Keep the tank full and wait until no more air comes out of the bleeder.
