aftermarket oversized radiator?
#3
Seems like it would be easy to do, because just coolant in/out and small line to overflow bottle. Issues would be size of fan cowling to match, thickness reducing spacing from fan blades and fan clutch, and what to do with tranny cooler lines that wrap around to get to the "sub radiator".
Now, if you can't change the size of the radiator, or how thick it is, what about increasing the air flow through the stock one? Four points come to mind (a) saudi grille; (b) heavy duty fan clutch (engages with higher percentage when hot, makes more roar); (c) oversize deeper pitch fan, (d) add second electric fan on condenser, and you control temp it operates at, not depend on ECU.
Of course, most fan changes don't make much difference at 50 mph, my test ($20 of junk yard 2000 Blazer clutch and fan) seems to do 6 - 10 degrees when 100 plus outside. But my old rodded out radiator might not do exactly what your does. Bigger difference holding down heat at idle and slow moving, like rock climbing.
Could also mount a supplemental remote radiator. On a roof rack!
Now, if you can't change the size of the radiator, or how thick it is, what about increasing the air flow through the stock one? Four points come to mind (a) saudi grille; (b) heavy duty fan clutch (engages with higher percentage when hot, makes more roar); (c) oversize deeper pitch fan, (d) add second electric fan on condenser, and you control temp it operates at, not depend on ECU.
Of course, most fan changes don't make much difference at 50 mph, my test ($20 of junk yard 2000 Blazer clutch and fan) seems to do 6 - 10 degrees when 100 plus outside. But my old rodded out radiator might not do exactly what your does. Bigger difference holding down heat at idle and slow moving, like rock climbing.
Could also mount a supplemental remote radiator. On a roof rack!
#4
#5
There's a write up in the tech section. Basically, the cross members in the grille are removed and wire mesh installed. Improves air flow, and when you are in the 130 - 150 F desert, you need all you can get, certainly when operating slowly at high rpm in sand.
But if your stock radiator isn't getting it done, is it due to something else, like old dexcool sludge in the radiator or thermostat?
But if your stock radiator isn't getting it done, is it due to something else, like old dexcool sludge in the radiator or thermostat?
#7
#8
To answer your question, for the most part no. That is not to say you can't go on line and order from Jeg's or one of the performance shops per the exact size of the room available to fit a 2 core radiator in, but it is not needed if you have a cooling system that is running at 100% and well maintained.
What exactly is wrong with your truck and be specific?
What exactly is wrong with your truck and be specific?
#9
Nothin really, I didn't like how dirty my new coolant got already. I just replaced the thermo, waterpump and coolant with flush towards the middle of the summer, less then 1k ago. The bleeder screw busted so I just replaced the upper hose and had a local garage bleed it out after I failed to do so after 2 attempts. But the coolant already had orange bits in it, so I figure there must be settled crap in the radiator still thats bound to eventually clog up the thermo and/or just wear at the gaskets and waterpump down the line. The radiator I assume is stock vintage 2000, and although it looks to be in decent shape ( no leaks, holes or busted fins to any great extent) I always like to plan ahead and replace things with better things. If a radiator swap is in the future, if there was a drop in aftermarke thats bigger or whatever, just figured I'd keep an eye out for it.
About 2 more gallons of coolant went into it the other day after replacing the upper hose... and they bled it well, but it runs at about 204F going to 211ish at idle according to the ultraguage. I had a 600hp n/a LT4 trans am worked up and even with stock radiator and cooling system, never went above 190's, 210 would be sitting in traffic for a long time in the middle of summer. Granted this is a different animal, I don't like it being that hot. I had amsoil coolant with thier additive in there, figured I should be in BETTER condition then that.
I've been reading some posts on the fan clutch, I didn't check that, I'll take a look tonight after work... test hot with engine off, free spin hands off shoudlnt be more then 1 revolution correct?
About 2 more gallons of coolant went into it the other day after replacing the upper hose... and they bled it well, but it runs at about 204F going to 211ish at idle according to the ultraguage. I had a 600hp n/a LT4 trans am worked up and even with stock radiator and cooling system, never went above 190's, 210 would be sitting in traffic for a long time in the middle of summer. Granted this is a different animal, I don't like it being that hot. I had amsoil coolant with thier additive in there, figured I should be in BETTER condition then that.
I've been reading some posts on the fan clutch, I didn't check that, I'll take a look tonight after work... test hot with engine off, free spin hands off shoudlnt be more then 1 revolution correct?
#10
The Discovery II (D2) has a 2 core radiator, also known as a 2 row radiator.
Meaning it only has 2 rows to cool the engine.
All radiators have rows, those are tubes that run through the radiator and carry the hot coolant.
Each tube is covered in fins, the fins increase the amount of air that reaches each tube.
The fins pull the heat away and cool the coolant.
The more rows the more cooling power.
Radiator Diagram Cutaway
Meaning it only has 2 rows to cool the engine.
All radiators have rows, those are tubes that run through the radiator and carry the hot coolant.
Each tube is covered in fins, the fins increase the amount of air that reaches each tube.
The fins pull the heat away and cool the coolant.
The more rows the more cooling power.
Radiator Diagram Cutaway