Your store could be an exception, but box stores are probably the worst rated places to have ANY type on install done. They butcher your electrical systems, in most cases. But, I find most install shops do the same thing.

IMHO if you go into an installed and see ANY of those tapping and splicing connectors, just walk out. If they are not soldering and shrink tubing anything they have to tap into, then they are doing it wrong, and just trying to save time at your expense. Regardless of the price of the vehicle, if you are going to do it, then do it the correct way. ESPECIALLY, if you claim to be a pro and are getting paid.

 

we do not solder everything when we do a new radio we use caps in cases when we tap in to a wire to hard wire a gps or a radar we will solder, but u say if we do not solder everything we are doing things wrong? because according to MECP Advanced there are different ways to do different things.

 

IMHO there is only one right way to tap into a vehicles electrical system and that is to solder and shrink tube. EVERY car manufacturer service manual I have ever read describes the proper way to tap or repair a wire and scotch locks or any other similar tape are NEVER permitted. Now, I have not read every service manual for every manufacturer, but Ford, GM, AMG, Honda and Toyota all read as I have described. If MECP says it is ok, then they are teaching shortcuts and should not be. The IEEE is the true standards body and I am going by those standards.

 

i guess we all have different ways of doing things and every on has there own right way of doing it.

 

As an electronics tech trained by the air force, I'll chime in and say that not every connection needs to be soldered and shrink wrapped. I've seen some people solder that actually makes a worse connection than simply twisting 2 wires together. A cold solder joint as most end up with because they don't know what they're doing with a soldering iron is just going to fail. When I did the stereo in my Rover I simply twisted the wires together and taped them without any problems. Normally I use crimp connectors but I decided against them due to the limited space in the dash. And I have had Best Buy do some work for me and have had good luck. They installed an alarm system on my Dodge and I was very happy with it. As a rule I stay away from places like Best Buy for installation more because I prefer t do that stuff myself than that they do or don't know how to do the job properly. And the specialty car electronics store that installed the remote start system on my new Dodge took 4 tries to get it right and fried my instrument panel in the process.

 

OK I wan't to add somethings, MY disco is a 97 and as a professional installer with 1000's of RS and alarms installs under my belt, this truck was easier than most GM's I have done (I would not use the key to lock the doors with an aftermarket alarm and the factory alarm will not arm). as for leaving things on yes a loud radio left on or the wipers it will come on with the RS but it will just the same if you start with the key. For the anti grind feature you can add that to any remote start system (it is basically a starter kill that is hooked up to the status output wire from the RS unit) (light blue wire on the Viper systems) , I solder the Tach wire only because that is the one connection that is made to the engine and the engine is exposed to elements and see's the most vibration. the ignition wires are heavy guage and should not be soldered because that heat can weaken the contacts at the ignition switch. As for Best Buy doing the work unfotrunately as the same with mechanics goes, each individual installer no matter where you go, will either take pride in his work or rush, I have worked at shops that guarantee every wire be soldered and the brain of an alarm will be hidden so that half the dash must be removed to get to it, and I have worked at shops that wanted it done quickly, get it done get it out and if it breaks we will fix it later (best buy). I would suggest a private shop for quality of work, however I would suggest Best Buy for taking care of problems. And for the last arguement of why replace an existing alarm, 3 arguements for that,1. Viper alarms offer better range, 2. Viper alarms offer more control over sensitivity as well as better protection (shock sensor), and 3. as is in my case Cheaper (my truck did not come with a factory remote)

 

I don't have a factory remote for my 97 either which is a driving force in looking for a aftermarket system. I have a Code Alarm system on my Dodge that has everything you could want in a remote start/alarm system. I am thinking of having the same system installed on my Rover.

My question is this: if you lock the doors using the aftermarket remote doesn't the central lock system arm the factory alarm?

 

no it does not, there is an alarm arm trigger wire attached to the drivers door key switch but it will not arm if you just trigger the lock\unlock wire (which is just 1 wire), (the factory alarm will only arm if you use the key to lock the drivers door or the factory remote). there are seperate wires for factory alarm arm and disarm, which your aftermarket system can control if you want it to.

 

Could an aftermarket remote start/keyless entry arm and disarm the factory alarm? Would there be an interface problem having the engine remote start and the factory alarm armed? (If that makes sense)

 

you would have todisarm the factory alarm prior to remote starting the truck(rover alarms have factory starter kill) (remote starts will automatically pulse their factory alarm disarm wire right before remote starting, and yes all keyless entry systems have factory alarm arm and disarm wires). I personally do not lock my doors with the key in fact I keep one inside the car for the gas door and one inside the house (incase my truck battery dies or my remote stops working) and just use my remote and my ignition key, this way the factory alarm never goes on.