Finally got around to changing everything out after the last repair of the fan/fan clutch (when during test driving, a piece went thru the radiator). So, easy jobs to do overall and all went smooth (thanks once again for your tips and advice).
Finished up yesterday, and had my first drive (other than a few around the block while bleeding the system, doing small checks, etc) just now and she is STILL running hot. Temps are readying in the 220's to lower 230's. I am truly at a loss now. Before the repairs, there were no issues. She ran fine and never overheated and temp gauge never went past the middle. I put the ultra gauge in though to be careful, and saw it was a bit higher than my liking. Being most of the system was new, the only thing that looked toasted was the fan and fan clutch.
So, now she has all new: Radiator, t-stat, belt, water pump, oil changew with Syntec 10/40 and K&N 3001, flush, Peak 50/50 and Water Wetter. While taking it apart, everything looked nice and clean in there too. I bleed the system, I have perfect heat in the truck and all seems normal, yet the temps are still showing high.
Any ideas here? Truck runs fine, no codes, no dash lights, etc. Maybe it IS normal and it is the temp sending unit? I honestly can't think of anything here folks.
Here is the old water pump (looked fine, but the fan had a wobble so I was concerned on the bearings)


Here is the old t-stat (looked fine as well and not plugged up)

 

You can test the existing ECT by removing it, scrub clean (in case calcium build up), connect back to wiring harness (it is a two wire sensor and does not appear to use the ground). Place in a container of water that you know the temp of, like hot water from your house, etc. that you have read with some other thermometer. Ultra gauge should be close... be careful if trying to use with very hot water. Truck is not running while this is going on.

The connector and contact area of the sensor could be fouled and need to be cleaned.

A sensor is like $25.

But if sensor is telling the truth, and you really are running hotter, would wonder if all that air bubble is finally out, etc. Did you happen to flush the heater core? IMHO if core is restricted, it impacts how fast water flows to sample holes in stat when stat is closed. And to test that theory (and it is just a SWAG) you could bypass heater core with a rubber hose and two clamps.

 

Heater is working great (super hot) so I don't think it is that. I might have just found a smoking gun though, although I don't know what to make of it. I just bleed the truck again, and let it idle for maybe 20 minutes with the cap off. Temp got up to about 210. Heat felt even across all of the hoses, except the lower radiator hose was cold. It has to have something to do with it...but need someone wiser to tell me what that is.

 

If someone could please post a picture of their T-stat with hoses connected that would be excellent. Please and thanks! I'm wondering if the two top hoses are reversed. With the lower hose cold it is the only thing I could think of. The RAVE pics on this are useless. I have it the same way as the way I took it out, but I suppose it is possible that the shop that did the work for the PO reversed it. Given she was always running a temp maybe that is it? I'm banging my head on the wall here trying to figure this one out!

 

Here is mine.

 

That is the correct setup, Snafu. The upper radiator hose comes out of straight port at the top of the stat, and the hose to the water pump comes out of the port that sticks off at an angle.

 

I was really hoping someone would not say that! So the gauge shows over 200 and the lower hose is still cold. I'm lost.

 

My scangauge shows up to 220 when sitting still for long periods and about 189 when running. are you seeing a decrease on the open road?

 

I'm not feeling good about that t-stat...it's easy enough to change...i'd put a new one in just to be sure...

 

No, was running hotter.