Another Disco II stuck in park
#1
Another Disco II stuck in park
2000 Discovery II
153K miles
Symptoms:
1) Won't shift from park, even with brake depressed.
2) Brake lights on even with ignition off.
3) Have to take foot off of brake to stop engine.
4) With car off, when brake is depressed the dash panel lights ups as if attempting to start.
5) Will start without issue.
Attempted solutions
1) Disconnect, wait, reconnect battery. No fix.
2) Brake pedal switch (Brake Light Switch & Wiring Assembly Kit (Genuine Part # XKB500120 ) - Land Rover switches from Atlantic British) removed and tested. No fix.
3) All fuses examined. No issues/no fix.
I'm stumped here. Partially by the problem/symptoms in general, and mostly by not knowing enough about automotive electrical systems to know the next steps in the diagnostic process.
Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken W. Alger
153K miles
Symptoms:
1) Won't shift from park, even with brake depressed.
2) Brake lights on even with ignition off.
3) Have to take foot off of brake to stop engine.
4) With car off, when brake is depressed the dash panel lights ups as if attempting to start.
5) Will start without issue.
Attempted solutions
1) Disconnect, wait, reconnect battery. No fix.
2) Brake pedal switch (Brake Light Switch & Wiring Assembly Kit (Genuine Part # XKB500120 ) - Land Rover switches from Atlantic British) removed and tested. No fix.
3) All fuses examined. No issues/no fix.
I'm stumped here. Partially by the problem/symptoms in general, and mostly by not knowing enough about automotive electrical systems to know the next steps in the diagnostic process.
Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken W. Alger
#2
It could be the shifter solenoid. If you step on the brake pedal you should be able to feel it release with your hand on the shifter. If that is your problem you can remove the shifter and shifter cover on the console to bypass or solenoid.
2000 Discovery II
153K miles
Symptoms:
1) Won't shift from park, even with brake depressed.
2) Brake lights on even with ignition off.
3) Have to take foot off of brake to stop engine.
4) With car off, when brake is depressed the dash panel lights ups as if attempting to start.
5) Will start without issue.
Attempted solutions
1) Disconnect, wait, reconnect battery. No fix.
2) Brake pedal switch (Brake Light Switch & Wiring Assembly Kit (Genuine Part # XKB500120 ) - Land Rover switches from Atlantic British) removed and tested. No fix.
3) All fuses examined. No issues/no fix.
I'm stumped here. Partially by the problem/symptoms in general, and mostly by not knowing enough about automotive electrical systems to know the next steps in the diagnostic process.
Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken W. Alger
153K miles
Symptoms:
1) Won't shift from park, even with brake depressed.
2) Brake lights on even with ignition off.
3) Have to take foot off of brake to stop engine.
4) With car off, when brake is depressed the dash panel lights ups as if attempting to start.
5) Will start without issue.
Attempted solutions
1) Disconnect, wait, reconnect battery. No fix.
2) Brake pedal switch (Brake Light Switch & Wiring Assembly Kit (Genuine Part # XKB500120 ) - Land Rover switches from Atlantic British) removed and tested. No fix.
3) All fuses examined. No issues/no fix.
I'm stumped here. Partially by the problem/symptoms in general, and mostly by not knowing enough about automotive electrical systems to know the next steps in the diagnostic process.
Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken W. Alger
#4
God is that brake light switch OVERPRICED!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can get the exact same switch at any Auto Zone for 12.00!!!!
You would certainly hear a click or feel the shifter thump if the solenoid was retracting when you push the brake pedal. If it isn't retracting you can simply remove the shifter bezel find the solenoid nipple and push it back out of the way and shift it once the LR is running.
People act like it's a nightmare if the solenoid acts up and they swear to always carry a spare brake switch (good for having working brake lights, but not needed in order to shift)... I guess they've never seen other vehicles where the darn solenoid is so far buried deep down inside the center console it requires like 2HR just to tear it down and find it... On a D2 it's like a 2min from start to finish job and that's taking your time.
Also you said the brake switch was moved and tested? Did you actually replace it? Is it the old style or identical to the newer design that you linked to? The old style usually broke a contact inside which rendered it useless. I haven't seen any newer designed ones fail like that.
You would certainly hear a click or feel the shifter thump if the solenoid was retracting when you push the brake pedal. If it isn't retracting you can simply remove the shifter bezel find the solenoid nipple and push it back out of the way and shift it once the LR is running.
People act like it's a nightmare if the solenoid acts up and they swear to always carry a spare brake switch (good for having working brake lights, but not needed in order to shift)... I guess they've never seen other vehicles where the darn solenoid is so far buried deep down inside the center console it requires like 2HR just to tear it down and find it... On a D2 it's like a 2min from start to finish job and that's taking your time.
Also you said the brake switch was moved and tested? Did you actually replace it? Is it the old style or identical to the newer design that you linked to? The old style usually broke a contact inside which rendered it useless. I haven't seen any newer designed ones fail like that.
Last edited by Best4x4; 02-15-2016 at 05:21 PM.
#5
Best4x4;
No, the switch I have currently is SWITCH BRAKE LIGHTS P38A, DISCOVERY II & FREELNDR, RNL115, XKB100170 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Any recommendations on how to proceed would be great.
Would the switch replacement solve the solenoid problem? What about the funky situation with the engine shut off and the console panel lights turning on simply by depressing the brakes?
Thanks a ton for your input, knowledge, and advice.
No, the switch I have currently is SWITCH BRAKE LIGHTS P38A, DISCOVERY II & FREELNDR, RNL115, XKB100170 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Any recommendations on how to proceed would be great.
Would the switch replacement solve the solenoid problem? What about the funky situation with the engine shut off and the console panel lights turning on simply by depressing the brakes?
Thanks a ton for your input, knowledge, and advice.
#6
Best4x4;
No, the switch I have currently is SWITCH BRAKE LIGHTS P38A, DISCOVERY II & FREELNDR, RNL115, XKB100170 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Any recommendations on how to proceed would be great.
Would the switch replacement solve the solenoid problem? What about the funky situation with the engine shut off and the console panel lights turning on simply by depressing the brakes?
Thanks a ton for your input, knowledge, and advice.
No, the switch I have currently is SWITCH BRAKE LIGHTS P38A, DISCOVERY II & FREELNDR, RNL115, XKB100170 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Any recommendations on how to proceed would be great.
Would the switch replacement solve the solenoid problem? What about the funky situation with the engine shut off and the console panel lights turning on simply by depressing the brakes?
Thanks a ton for your input, knowledge, and advice.
The following users liked this post:
KeizerRover (02-15-2016)
#7
I'm stumped here. Partially by the problem/symptoms in general, and mostly by not knowing enough about automotive electrical systems to know the next steps in the diagnostic process.
Gear position switch - The gear position switch outputs signals that are related to the position of the selector lever assembly. The switch is installed on the selector shaft on the left side of the gearbox. Slotted mounting holes allow the switch to be turned relative to the shaft for adjustment. A fly lead connects the switch to the vehicle wiring. Movement of the selector lever assembly turns the selector shaft, which operates six pairs of contacts in the switch.
The outputs of the W, X, Y and Z contacts are monitored by the EAT ECU and the BCU to determine the position of the selector lever assembly.
Gear position switch W, X, Y, Z outputs The Park/Neutral contacts output to the BCU and, on diesel models, the ECM. The Reverse contacts output to the BCU, the reversing lamps, the SLABS ECU and, where fitted, the ACE ECU and the electrochromic interior mirror.
The outputs of the W, X, Y and Z contacts are monitored by the EAT ECU and the BCU to determine the position of the selector lever assembly.
Gear position switch W, X, Y, Z outputs The Park/Neutral contacts output to the BCU and, on diesel models, the ECM. The Reverse contacts output to the BCU, the reversing lamps, the SLABS ECU and, where fitted, the ACE ECU and the electrochromic interior mirror.
#8
#9
Put new switch in. All symptoms still exist.
Since this is... was?... my wife's daily driver, the idea of having the gear shift mechanism open for her to depress the solenoid is somewhat less than desirable just to get around town. The fact that the brake lights stay on even when the car is off is a problematic long term issue as well.
Suggestions for the next troubleshooting step?
Thanks,
Ken
Since this is... was?... my wife's daily driver, the idea of having the gear shift mechanism open for her to depress the solenoid is somewhat less than desirable just to get around town. The fact that the brake lights stay on even when the car is off is a problematic long term issue as well.
Suggestions for the next troubleshooting step?
Thanks,
Ken