New to the forum. I had my first DII a few years ago. I loved it. And got to drive it through the winter. First time I wished it would snow harder since I wanted a snow day in school.
unfortunately a drunk driver hit it while it was parked and totalled it out.
my brother in law was getting rid of his DII and offered it to me. He has done a lot of work on it. One of the last things putting a new motor in it and rebuilding it while doing it.
I knew of oil leaks and coolant leaks that it had. But for the price it was worth it. Hunting down some stuff it looks like the oil pan is probably leaking. (I tried to clean up the motor when I got home after a 500 mile drive with it) he thought coolant was leaking from the heater core. But it looks like it's coming off the back of the engine. I assume head gasket on passenger side. I know they followed all torque specs. But maybe it was a little warped. They didn't get it machined original. Other side seems great. Sorry for the long story but because of everything that was done I just want to fix the one head. Should I buy a whole gasket kit? Or just what I need? (Sorry for the long post)

 

Usually when you go that far into it you should do both, but if you’re very confident it was done right then no. I think you should confirm it’s the head gasket that’s leaking before you dig that deep though.

 

so the 'new' engine is the one leaking? New 'used' or new rebuilt? If a 'new' rear seal is already leaking, you may want to really check out the whole build and what exactly was done to the engine...

 

I’ve had the same leak where it appears to be from the back of the engine. The first place to check is the hard coolant line that connects to the intake manifold at the front of the motor. It’s right behind the alternator and easily visible. It’s held in place with one bolt and there is an oring gasket that can leak. When there is a leak there the coolant drips down and flows down the valley pan gasket to the back of the motor and drips down the the side of the block nearest the firewall.


If this is your leak you are in luck. Easy fix, new oring gasket and I always use RTV where the pipe meets the intake then slather the outside as well.

good luck

 

New used. But everything was gone over. Normally I would say maybe. But I know the guy I got it from. I trust him. And also he has a break down of everything done to the vehicle including maintenance what was used and the price and where he got the parts.
and a list of what he wanted to do and the part numbers for the parts.
I do know the heads were not machines. The land rover they pulled it from was good and it had 100k on it. Most parts were replaced with new parts because they didn't want to do anything again. My only thought is that it was as flat as it should be.
tonight I did a combustion leak test with the coolant and all showed good. But haven't done a cylinder compression test. It runs great and starts right up on first turn of the key.
but I'm loosing coolant I can smell and now see. Oil too which looks like its coming from the pan. I asked him about it and he said he wasnt loosing enough to worry and after 2 engines and 7 years later he learned to not chase every oil leak. ( i will be) but i get it. I have 3 codes that i need to fix which are large evap leak and 2 o2 sensor codes. Running lean. He believed they noticed a small crack in the manifold on the driver's side. Which us also where the o2 sensor is that I'm getting a code for. Looks like it was planned but never done. Before I picked it up in Ohio. He drove it Utah to Tennessee to Ohio. I got it in Ohio and drove it back to Wisconsin. So, it obviously runs well. He took his gauges out I'm putting in mine this week for oil pressure and coolant temp.

 

I will look at this! He swore he thought it was from the heater core. And I didn't see anything. A light on I could see it running down the block right in the seam of the bell housing. I will look around some more. I would be happy to find it in a different place then I think! The thing that makes me nervous is how fast it warms up. It stays in the middle of the gauge and doesn't seem to move. I feel like if it wasn't true I wouldn't have made it 500 miles and he wouldn't have made it 1000 of miles before I picked it up. Not to mention after the engine was replaced he towed his lr3 with it from Ohio to Utah.

 

The pressure kit from Harbor Freight can really come in handy for finding leaks. If you do have to redo your HG I highly recommend the ARP Studs vs TTY bolts. 70FTLB and call it good.

 

Why do you recommend the studs over the TTY bolts?

 

Best4x4 has way more LR experience than I do, so his opinion would be worth more than mine. When I researched the pros and cons of TTY bolts vs ARP studs the opinions were mixed, so I opted for the bolts for both my D2 and P38, as they are a tenth the price. They are definitely more difficult to deal with. For me, if the reviews had been way more in favour of the studs I wouldn’t have hesitated to cough up the extra money. I’m sure others will also chime in here with their experience.

 

Studs - if you use bolts you need to follow the directions to the T NO shortcuts, no close enough it is a fiddly process compared to studs. But I am old and used to studs so that is how I went