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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 09:55 PM
  #11  
discomedic4's Avatar
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Winching
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From: Briar, TX
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Perfect. Thanks Greg. I remember Spike telling someone else in an old thread to grease until it pushes out. You don't have to worry about seals with the u-joints (they have a small rubber seal but if it does push out you just push it back in with your finger is what they old thread said) so that's what I did today when I was greasing everything. I hope whatever this is it is a simple fix. I have been blessed with this LR so far. No major foul ups. It had also already had the wires replaced with the ever popular Magnacor 8mm wires. They look brand new. Anyway, thanks for the advise. I will post an update tomorrow. Have a good night!
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 10:02 PM
  #12  
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Cool

luck,greg
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 11:19 PM
  #13  
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You guys recommend 15w-40, for the winter Rotella 5w-40 for the gas disco 2?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #14  
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That seems to be the consensus for cleaning sludge without doing a flush which depending on who you ask could be a pretty bad idea. The Rotella has lots of detergent in it and will clean your engine well over time without giving you a major sludge dump like a flush will. Thats what I have read on here anyway. I don't know first hand. I know Rotella kept my diesel pick-up nice and clean.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 10:01 AM
  #15  
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From: Briar, TX
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Well this stinks. I can not find a single parts store around here that carries anything other than the "dreaded" chinese made u-joints. I looked for an Advanced Auto as they carry a recommended u-joint but the closest one is 100 miles away. I can't afford to order and wait so I am going to get the precision u-joints and then order some better ones to replace them with in the near future. Best I can do at the moment. I know Antichrist strongly recommends not using any of the u-joints from AutoZone, NAPA, O'Reillys, etc. but I will just have to take my chances for a few weeks.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 03:19 PM
  #16  
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Just an update. I replaced my u-joints and still have the same sound and bonus my drive line now vibrates like crazy above 60mph. I have checked and rechecked everything on the drive line and everything is in order. I marked all of my flanges so that I could get everything to line up just how it came out. The old UJ's didn't really look bad. So I guess the search continues.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 10:26 PM
  #17  
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By your post, I assume you put in the precision joints - #344?

I'm surprised that it would shake (even more), did they all seat properly?

Did the caps all swivel smoothly?

And your certain about the flange markings.

BTW, are they "clocked' properly? - meaning the turning force is AGAINST the zerk fitting in all cases, wont affect balance, but will affect strength.

If your center difflock works, you can put it in lock, pull the front driveshaft, drive it around and see if it's fine.
I wouldn't go over 60, but you'll know. then maybe have the driveshaft balanced.


luck,greg
 

Last edited by greg409; Apr 29, 2010 at 10:34 PM.
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Old May 2, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #18  
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Hey Greg sorry I have been out of pocket and haven't seen your reply until today. That is my game plan Monday. I am going to pull the front DS and drive it in high lock. DiscoMike says it is fine to drive at 70 just make slow take offs so you don't put too much load on the rear DS. If that takes care of the vibration I will take it to have it rebalanced. I will update. And yes I did use the 344's. The ones I got were stamped Made in the USA.
 
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Old May 2, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #19  
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Cool,

luck,greg
 
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Old May 2, 2010 | 03:00 PM
  #20  
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Doesn't Spicer make an appropriate joint for these trucks? I would think they would be a good option.
 
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