I agree...which causes my question.
I don't know how to support it from underneath.
Considering the oil pan will be off (wouldn't support under it anyway). Can't support under block, as I need room to work. And both engine mounts are in the way.
So, will one engine mount support things safely to work under it ?? Possibly. Considering trans and trans mount are connected to it. If I can remove one mount at a time, as well as just the oil pan and starter, it may not be that bad of a job.

 

X1 .......... the engine is very lightweight for a V8 so block it up under the sump pan but use a sheet timber load spreader about 1" or some plywood about 3/4". Undo/slacken your front exhaust pipes first or they may damage. Ideally it should be welded on a 4 post ramp at head height and use the jacking attachment to lift the engine on some timber spreader.

 

I have to have the oil pan off to pin the sleeves.
So I can't support the engine with it, or from the bottom, as I need the room to work.

 

Once started you should be able to find your way around the roadblocks you are imagining. If you can't remove the engine.
.....

 

From what Chris (RoverMasterTech) told me and what my Land Rover mechanic showed me on the lift, Chris did not weld anything. He used a hybrid method on mine (welding is a PITA) and pinned it from the Outside using giant bolts (two for each slipping cylinder). I had two of them. He told me he found the exact cylinder to pin using the old spraying water on the engine trick.

Again my engine never used coolant. It was just a jackhammer that started at 140 degrees and could be deafening at 208 degrees on a hot day.

Hey, it worked great. Thanks Chris!!

 

Can you block the engine up under the autobox bell housing or even under the engine pulley with or without the belt on. Lock the engine with a pin through the flywheel as you would when changing the timing chain and cut a Vee in a piece of wood to fit the crankshaft pulley. C'mon Sixpack, imagination is the answer, no sweat

 

I don't understand how spraying water on the cylinder finds the slipping sleeve.
My engine doesn't overheat, have CO2 in coolant, or coolant in oil. Only the loud tapping that I am now 99% sure is a liner.
Do you have any more info on that?
Thanks

 

Lol! Yeah, I'm sure I can too!
Just trying to avoid any unseen snags, as they always turn up somewhere unexpected.

 

I think I'll be ok with one motor mount out at a
time. No need to lock the flywheel either, or support under the crank pulley, as I have to be able to rotate the engine to make sure each piston is at TDC when I pin each cylinder.

 

spraying cold water on the cylinder from the outside stops the slipping and the jackhammer noise.

mine is the same way. No intermix and no coolant used.

On the 4.6 ‘03/04, the liners can slip and have no effect whatsoever on performance other than noise. Amazing!

good luck!