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Any ideas why my motor sounds like a diesel?

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Old 05-20-2013, 08:01 PM
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Default Any ideas why my motor sounds like a diesel?

Ive got a lot of noise coming from the block when running at idea mostly. Best way I can explain it is it sounds just like a diesel truck. I put a screw driver to the oil pan and the tranny to hear where its coming from and its definitely coming from the block. Supposedly 90k roughly on the motor.
 
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:54 PM
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Does this ticking start at once when cranked, or does it get louder as block warms up? Does it seem to go away when engine is driven at higher rpm?

The thought is that a cylinder sleeve breaks loose, from overheating. Then, every time engine warms up it gets loose, is carried by friction with the piston and hits the fire ring of the head gasket. As engine speeds up, the liner can't keep up with the piston travel. It still moves, but reverses before it can hit the gasket and tick. One fix is to pin the liners, search for that on this forum. Another fix is rebuild engine with "top hat" flanged liners..

Other ticks - if starts at cold engine - exhuast gaskets leaking (try a Seafoam induction treatment and the smoke will show the leaks); under the valve covers (valve train, rocker arms, etc.); under front cover (oil pump cracked into several pieces)....
 
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:04 PM
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Its right away on start up but not to obvious when driving. Seems more obvious when at idle. The sound is in the block for sure.



Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Does this ticking start at once when cranked, or does it get louder as block warms up? Does it seem to go away when engine is driven at higher rpm?

The thought is that a cylinder sleeve breaks loose, from overheating. Then, every time engine warms up it gets loose, is carried by friction with the piston and hits the fire ring of the head gasket. As engine speeds up, the liner can't keep up with the piston travel. It still moves, but reverses before it can hit the gasket and tick. One fix is to pin the liners, search for that on this forum. Another fix is rebuild engine with "top hat" flanged liners..

Other ticks - if starts at cold engine - exhuast gaskets leaking (try a Seafoam induction treatment and the smoke will show the leaks); under the valve covers (valve train, rocker arms, etc.); under front cover (oil pump cracked into several pieces)....
 
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:09 PM
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I would not rule out an exhaust leak. You can also remove plug wires one at a time, to isolate a noise for a particular cylinder. The idea is that without an explosion in the cyliner there will be less pressure on parts associated with it.
 
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:38 AM
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Is it a tick or a knock?

Check your oil pressure when cold and warm, and at idle and at 2200 rpm and get us those four numbers.

What oil are you running?
 
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:50 AM
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Its more of a tick I guess. Any tips on doing a oil pressure test?
 
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:27 AM
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the quick and easiest way would be to simply buy a sandwich plate that goes between your oil filter and block & screw gauge into it.
 
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by me 2
Its more of a tick I guess. Any tips on doing a oil pressure test?
I put in an oil Pressure gauge when I did my 100k mile service thread. You can save money on a different gauge probably but these are the parts I used. Here is a link to my thread (It should take you to the right page with the Oil gauge stuff) https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...h-47324/page9/

I hope this helps.
 
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:54 AM
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I'd also try 15W40 Rotella or 20W50 Castrol and a new filter, just in case it is from the valve train. But you should hear that from valve covers. An exhaust leak is more like "chuff -chuff-chuff" sound. The oil switch sender screws out and the test rig screws in. My 183K D1 makes 44 PSI hot and revved , and I am happy. Agree that a gauge you can read inside the truck is even better.
 
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:09 PM
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Cool, Ill see where the oil pressures at and go from there, thanks guys.
 


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