Time to replace my slightly leaking radiator on a 2003 DII. Any tricks or tips to remove it?
I would like to avoid removing the trans cooler lines if possible. Not sure how to disconnect those. Would appreciate any advice on the job before I start. Thanks.

 

Download a free copy of the Rave CD, shop manual, that will give you full details on the removal, link in my signature section.
Additional things to do, a 180 degree soft spring t/stat and switch away from Dexcool to green coolant.

 

Have the Rave manual - Don't quite understand how to disconnect trans cooler lines - Manual simply states to "push against coupler release rings". Just trying to get it straight in my head which direction to push before I dive in. Also not quite clear on how the cooler lines interfere with removing the radiator - some have suggested you can do it without removing the lines.

I don't see green coolant being readily available as it used to be - seems like "All Makes All Models" universal coolant is taking its place. The universal stuff seems like a variation of Dexcool - any recommendations on coolant type and brand?

 

Yeah, remove the top 2 10mm head bolts, take a really long phillips head and stick it through the grill go between the rubber and the opening for the condenser to remove the bottom screws for the mount. Then lift the radiator a bit and unscrew the cooler(s), move coolers as low as you can and pull the radiator out the top. Total time, 15 mins.

 

Buy/use Peak or any of the green coolants.

 

Couple of questions:

1. Do I remove the fan/clutch or fan shroud?

2. When you say "unscrew the coolers" do you mean the cooler lines or unscrew the cooler from its mount (attached to rad?)?

Sounds like if it pulls straight up I won't have to remove the fan or the shroud.

That's awesome - Thanks

 

Take the fan and shroud off

 

You don't have to mess with disconnecting the trans cooler, but you do have to remove the fan shroud. I won't claim 15 minutes, but it can be swapped in under an hour. There is definitely some finagling required. Be careful with the small return line outlet at the top on the driver's side near the air box. That thing is fragile.

Another tip, when reinstalling the grill, be careful with those 3 little plastic bayonet/plastic screw pieces. I've managed to launch them across the garage, never to be seen again, a few times.

 

Don't forget the transfer the parts off the old radiator.
and make sure its the right one with or without secondary air.

 

Well, got the job done the other day. Didn't need to remove the fan/clutch or disconnect the transmission lines. Took longer than 15 mins. though.

For future reference:

Remove front grill and remove the horns then pull back upper foam to gain access to the mounting bolts (body and condenser). Remove upper fan shroud. Remove the upper mounts and locate and remove trans cooler mount screw on passenger side. Slide trans cooler towards passenger side - it has a mounting tab that slides into a receptacle on the driver's side of the radiator. The radiator should now be loose enough to remove the plastic "ears" screwed to the sides of the radiator - I used a really long screw driver. Now wiggle the trans cooler free of the radiator and remove the lower fan shroud. Disconnect the hoses and temp sensor wiring (trans cooler and SAI if equipped) and the radiator should pull straight up and out.

Refitting the first thing I did was loosely attach the trans cooler to the radiator before I set it into the chassis mounts.

Having a set of cable operated hose clamp pliers like these: Craftsman Cable Operated Hose Clamp Pliers - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools made dealing with the hose clamps a breeze.

Thanks to all those who responded - you guys were a big help.