I've been on a hunt the last 2-3 weeks to get our '04 D2 HSE with a 190K miles (engine rebuilt at 125K because of a slipped sleeve) running after it starting exhibiting increasing frequent limping behavior before finally dying. (He who is without "ignoring the warning signs" sin, may cast the first stone).

Currently it will turn over and momentarily feel like it is ready to get running (maybe 1-2 sec) then die. Feathering the accelerator used to help get it going (again, "ignoring the warning signs" sin) but no more.

After eliminating fuel (50psi on the fuel rail) and ignition (inline spark detector shows life -- according to my wife) issues, I've decided that it's the crankshaft position sensor. Or at least that's the first part I am going to throw at it.

I forgot what a PITA it is getting to the CPS.

I got the CPS off the block and it is dangling, but now I can't do anything with the connector.

I managed to wiggle the connector out of the bracket securing the connector to the firewall (good move or bad move), and I can barely get a hand up on it, but I cannot see how the connector works nor feel any release clip.

Are there any tips or tricks to getting this thing off?

Among my questions:

• What exactly does the end of the connector on the wiring harness look like, specifically the latch-clip that secures it? (the connector on the new CPS has a little catch nub on it, so I am assuming that this one of those squeeze levers, though again, I cannot really feel it)
• Should I "bite-the-bullet" and remove the O2 sensor in order to create more room for my hand?
• Should I remove the bracket used to hold the connector to the firewall to create a little more working room?
• Is there any tool I can rig up to release the clip

In lieu of any tips-tricks from someone who's been here, my plan is as follows:

1. Remove the O2 sensor
2. Remove the connector firewall bracket (it's bigger than a 10mm, maybe a 13? Does anyone know the size of that bracket bolt?)
3. Try and get my Harbor Freight long handle (12-14") 90 degree needle nose pliers up on the connector to squeeze the clip (why a pic of the connector clip would be useful)
4. Tie a string/wire to the CPS end of the connector (because you can't get two hands up in there at the same to separate them)
5. Squeeze the needle nose pliers and pull on the string/wire

Anyone have a better or technique?

FYI, further complicating matters, I am working out in the street in front of my house (that's were we were able to get it to after towing it 10-15 miles home with a tow strap after it died, I have the worst possible driveway for backyard mechanic, as steep downhill, if I coasted it down that 30-40-ish percent grade I am worried 1) I couldn't stop it without power brake assist and 2) if I did manage to stop it, I would never be able to tow it back up if needed). I can get it up on jacks stands but not with a terrible amount of room to work: I have long-large, though not fat, hands and long-ish arms -- anatomically and otherwise a pretty unfavorable situation.

 

If you have spark, doesn't that mean that the crank position sensor is okay?

 

Are there any codes? Might also wanna try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if it will run.

As far as access to CPS goes, sawzall a flap into the wheel well that you can reach one of your hands through. I'd like to extend harness in a few spots one day, especially CPS connector.

 

Mollusc, I thought about that as well. The problem is that my wife (and daughter) are incapable of putting their thumb under the key in order to crank it (I'm serious, it must be a XX thing, my attempts to instruct them notwithstanding, they simply can't conceive rotating their hand counterclockwise 180 degrees to position their thumb on the bottom of the key rather than the top -- first, you have 98% of the population that can't drive a manual, now 51% that can't turn a key that isn't positioned unless it is in a GM or Ford SUV). So I have to crank while my wife observes (you can guess how that goes). And it's too much work to put a mechanic starter button on the starter solenoid.

As I mentioned, it has that moment when it sounds like it is going to fire up on its own, then it goes back to just cranking. Consistent with that, my wife said the inline spark tester lit initially, then stopped after I kept cranking.

Given it has 50psi on the fuel rail and that it has that momentary almost starting feel, and given that it exhibited the tell-tale signs of a failing CPS before the beast completely died, I made the executive decision to start the throwing-parts-at-it phase of the troubleshooting process with the CPS.


11chuck, it had a MAF sensor code for about six months, so put a new Bosch one in. Someone smart/senior on the forum said it couldn't be the sensor as the engine will start and run with it unplugged.

But now I -- like the pig at breakfast -- am totally committed to replacing the CPS, so I gotta get on with it.

To your harness point, dealing with this connector is so frustrating, I thought about actually cutting off the wiring somewhere in the middle on the current dangling sensor and splicing in a new harness connector on to that just to get the new CPS on.

But with the connector out of the bracket, I can now at least see the what the latch/clip and how it likely works, so I am going to first try to get the connector secured back in the bracket, then I am going to try and push the clip with a variety of longish (24" and longer) tools to see if one of them can move the clip enough to release the sensor.

But still hoping someone weighs in with a simple trick to ge this f%&ker released.

 

I have yet to replace the CPS but know that reckoning will someday come the longer I own these boys. If you figure this out, can you share? I'll buy whatever tools I might need to someday make this process as easy as possible. I've heard nothing but how nearly impossible this task is. Adding to the complexity is that it seems like these are always replaced on the side of the road. I have a new spare in my roadside toolbox waiting for the day.

 

Releasing the connector from the bracket was the hardest part for me. I found it easier to just zip tie the new O2 sensor wire to something to secure it was easier than trying to get the connector back on the bracket.

 

Are you talking about the CPS sensor bracket or O2 sensor bracket?

 

If it starts and runs without the MAF plugged in than the issue is the MAF. Usually a MAF issue would throw codes though, I don't think CPS usually does.

 

CPS sensor connector. I meant to say it was easier to zip tie the CPS sensor wire to the O2 sensor wire to secure it vs. trying to get the cps sensor connector back onto it's bracket.