Any trick to the steering knuckle?
I'm trying to do the front ball joints. I am working on the front driver's side first. I am down to taking the knuckle off, but I cannot get it to budge. I have followed the RAVE manual, but I am using a "pickle fork" as I have heard it called, and not the exact tool listed in the RAVE. I cannot get it to budge off the ball joints. Maybe of note, but the bottom ball joint seems to twist when I move the knuckle, I can see the threads moving. The top doesn't do that. I've been hammering at it (1/2 kg sledge) on the fork for maybe 1.5 hours now. I've soaked it before in penetrating oil, but I have it soaking again. Any tips to get that damn thing off?
I'm trying to do the front ball joints. I am working on the front driver's side first. I am down to taking the knuckle off, but I cannot get it to budge. I have followed the RAVE manual, but I am using a "pickle fork" as I have heard it called, and not the exact tool listed in the RAVE. I cannot get it to budge off the ball joints. Maybe of note, but the bottom ball joint seems to twist when I move the knuckle, I can see the threads moving. The top doesn't do that. I've been hammering at it (1/2 kg sledge) on the fork for maybe 1.5 hours now. I've soaked it before in penetrating oil, but I have it soaking again. Any tips to get that damn thing off?
I’ve started with a dead blow mallet, then escalated to a 3lb, and then finally knocked it off with a 5-er.
This is one of the more frustrating disco projects, sorry it’s giving you grief. So I’ve found the most success by giving it a blow with a sledge on that top flat spot.
I’ve started with a dead blow mallet, then escalated to a 3lb, and then finally knocked it off with a 5-er.
I’ve started with a dead blow mallet, then escalated to a 3lb, and then finally knocked it off with a 5-er.
Sorry for the struggles. Land Rovers are good reasons to buy good tools. I like to back the section up with one heavy hammer, then whack it on the opposite side. Theory is to cause a slight deformation that allows the taper to drop out. Maybe also use a clamp-style remover to create some tension prior to hammering. Some heat might also help, for a bit of expansion. Once the technique is perfected, it takes only minutes. Check out online videos. Note the tapers fit so closely that penetrating oil does not penetrate.
Sorry for the struggles. Land Rovers are good reasons to buy good tools. I like to back the section up with one heavy hammer, then whack it on the opposite side. Theory is to cause a slight deformation that allows the taper to drop out. Maybe also use a clamp-style remover to create some tension prior to hammering. Some heat might also help, for a bit of expansion. Once the technique is perfected, it takes only minutes. Check out online videos. Note the tapers fit so closely that penetrating oil does not penetrate.
What about heat and wax? that may be just enough to get it loose? It always hard to tell what did loosened a fitting, but I seem to have had luck that a number of times. Could have been the penetrant or heat or anything else I used, but it seems to have helped.
I thought I posted, but I don't see it. I was able to procure a 2.7kg sledge hammer, and after about 5 minutes of hitting the taper joint it broke loose. Ball joints are replaced now. ☺️
Great feeling isn't it?
Totally! I'll tackle the other side this summer when I have some more time. The power steering pump is a little more pressing...
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twr7cx
Discovery II
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Dec 21, 2018 04:17 PM



