Changed from a Valeo 120amp original equipment to a re-built Bosch 130amp alternator today. The Bosch is noticeably heavier and slightly bigger. I have a ‘03 S and always felt the alternator was weak with everything switched on. Hope this solves the problem. I wonder if Land Rover did it just to save money or for fuel economy reasons on the 4.6?? Thanks.

It would stall at night with the main headlights on, accessories on and the Bluetooth OBD2 plugged in. Only at night and only in conjunction with the OBD2. Without the OBD2 plugged in, it hasn’t stalled in over a year. Weird I know. Hope the beefier Bosch alternator fixes things, because I want to monitor live engine temps.

Oh lord older RRC & 94-95 D1 alternator’s were so hit & miss!!! I was the person responsible for the chevy alternator conversion that British Pacific back in the day used to sell. Swap out a pulley and you could mount up a chevy alternator in place of the lucas giant lump of coal. Worked great and was extremely reliable!

I prefer using the 150AMP Alternators from 99-02 Bosch equipped P38’s in all my personal D2’s. LR switched to Valeo 120AMP’s because I remember back in the day the Bosch units could develope a loud bearing noise. I’m sure LR tried to address this while saving $$$. D2’s didn’t use as many computers as a P38 or a full blown EAS system so yes technically 120AMP is plenty. But dirty grounds, weak old battery = Alternator issues. I’ve only had one Valeo die & it was due someone jumping the D2 I was buying backwards..... It still got me home, but 10.2v output isn’t gonna cut it lol.

I’ve also had one Bosch be INOP, but that was the reason the woman was selling my 99 D2. It truly just needed a new alternator & battery. Swapped em both out and drove 4.5-5.0hr home lol. I used the INOP ones for junk yard cores.