ARP Studs vs stock
#1
ARP Studs vs stock
Opinions and belly buttons.....everyone has one. I'd like to hear opinions/arguments for both ARP vs stock studs.
My mechanic will do the HG job, but I am leaning toward ARP. My mechanic (a very trusted landy mechanic) has never done an ARP job. Says he'll do whatever I request, but thinks ARP is not necessary. Also, torque spec on ARP? 70? Does that sound right? Bottom line, trying to minimize another HG job down the road. Thoughts?
My mechanic will do the HG job, but I am leaning toward ARP. My mechanic (a very trusted landy mechanic) has never done an ARP job. Says he'll do whatever I request, but thinks ARP is not necessary. Also, torque spec on ARP? 70? Does that sound right? Bottom line, trying to minimize another HG job down the road. Thoughts?
#2
I like arp. less equation, but maybe less clamp under expansion
Bolt Engineering - Torque to yield and Torque/Angle Tighten (TTY & TAT) - Mickey's RV8 Site
Bolt Engineering - Torque to yield and Torque/Angle Tighten (TTY & TAT) - Mickey's RV8 Site
#3
follow this and decide for yourself:
2015 ARP Catalog
I believe ARP say 100psi, but think most people stop around 80-85psi
personally i would not put another one together without suds
2015 ARP Catalog
I believe ARP say 100psi, but think most people stop around 80-85psi
personally i would not put another one together without suds
Last edited by drowssap; 12-02-2014 at 08:38 AM.
#5
It's a personal preference. Both fasteners are completely acceptable. I just did studs, installation was a breeze (just follow directions) I torqued them to 70ft/lbs. We'll see how long they hold ( I'm not worried though).
Studs vs TTY bolts is an endless battle that will never end. What happens when you assign five engineers a single problem, you'll end up with five perfectly reasonable answers.
Simply put If you maintain your cooling system you minimize the risk of head gasket failures.
Studs vs TTY bolts is an endless battle that will never end. What happens when you assign five engineers a single problem, you'll end up with five perfectly reasonable answers.
Simply put If you maintain your cooling system you minimize the risk of head gasket failures.
#6
Do some searching over at landroversonly.com - there have been several threads over there about people pulling the threads out of their blocks with the stock bolts. There are also reports of different torques people have tried.
Personally, I'll be using studs and the best head gaskets money can buy when I do it.
Personally, I'll be using studs and the best head gaskets money can buy when I do it.
#7
Do some searching over at landroversonly.com - there have been several threads over there about people pulling the threads out of their blocks with the stock bolts. There are also reports of different torques people have tried.
Personally, I'll be using studs and the best head gaskets money can buy when I do it.
Personally, I'll be using studs and the best head gaskets money can buy when I do it.
#8
I checked torque on my factory head bolts before removing.
All over the place and the ps rear 2 bolts were hardly tight.
Coincidentally (or maybe not) that was the area that was weeping. Heads and block were flat and gasket looked as good as new.
Just an experience that I had. Not saying it was the fault of bolt stretch or over stretch, but that would be 1 of a few possible explanations.
All over the place and the ps rear 2 bolts were hardly tight.
Coincidentally (or maybe not) that was the area that was weeping. Heads and block were flat and gasket looked as good as new.
Just an experience that I had. Not saying it was the fault of bolt stretch or over stretch, but that would be 1 of a few possible explanations.
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post