All right. 2000 D2 with 55000 miles.

Just recently bought some ATF to do that famous engine cleaning. I'd just like to double check if it's really recommended before screwing everything up. I've had my share of problems so far and would definitely not excuse myself for taking a shot at some grandmother recipe and create another problem.

On my way out from buying this stuff, I came face to face with my friend that is a Honda service manager. I told him what I was about to do, and he promptly said that he sure as heck would not try it if he was me, venting how strong a cleaner this stuff can be.

So my questions are:
how exactly should I use it???

how long do I let the vehicle idle before flushing it???

Could it make a seepage become a leak or actually help a seepage disappear????

I have no intention in removing the oil pan, since it's gasket has just been changed and the pan cleaned from the front gasket job. So, if the pan has just been cleaned, could the junk dislodged by the ATF, actually clog my oil pickup tube if I don't remove and clean the pan??

Thanks, and you're very welcome to share your experiences with ATF.

 

NOTE: these instructions were originally written for a BMW 540 that has an 8 quart capacity......so adjust amounts to the Disco's. The person who wrote them claimed that they were given to him by a BMW service manager and "approved by BMW North America." That said, I've never done it tomy BMW or Disco and probably never will.The issue is, when any of these treatments (ATF, AutoRx, etc.) are performed on a higher-mileage/sludged-up motor, they can often free up more deposits, debris and junk than can be safely evacuated from the motor (via the oil filter, exhaust blow-off, etc.). For an example of this, take a close readof AutoRx's instructions for vehicles over a certainnumber of miles......they're adamant about doingmultiple oil filter changes within the process.They'd neverwrite a separate set of instructions or makethe consumer take these extra steps unlessthey knew there were potentialissues with the excess junk that could be freed up in a higher mileage motor. That's only my take on it though. Others swear by the ATF flush and have probably had no issues as a result.

In any event, here are the instructions.....

1. Warm-up engine and drain oil and replace filter.
2. Replace drained engine oil with 8 quarts of clean "transmission fluid" ....yes transmission fluid. REMEMBER tranny fluid is a lubricant as well as a detergent; this should break down years of sludge build-up, etc.
3. Start car idle for 10 minutes at about 1,500 rpm (NO HIGHER)!!!
4. Shut car and let rest for 5 minutes.
5. Repeat step #3 and #4 two more times.
6. Drain all fluids from crankcase and dispose of filter. Notice the color and opacity of the "what was once RED" fluid which is now black as night.
7. Procede with a fresh oil filter and 8 fresh quarts of synthetic.
8. I would reduce the interval of your next oil change by 50%; and repeat the above procedure. This time you should notice that the "Red" fluid going into the crankcase....should come out closer to its original color. Remember, the only way to see if this has effectively worked is by replacing the oil filter before running the tranny fluid; that way you are getting a realistic read on just how clean the system is running; the reuse of the "oil" filter will leave 1/2 to 3/4 quart of dirty oil to mix with the clear red fluid....you get the idea.
9. The detergent action of the tranny fluid will break-down all oil residue, sludge, junk and oil-burnished parts of the engine.
10. And this is safe for all the engine seals as well.

11. REMEMBER: YOU ARE NOT DRIVING THE CAR UNDER LOAD....YOU ARE ONLY IDLING @ 1500 rpm!

 

I gave you all the information and i think after nearly 30 years I would know if it was safe, much less if it works. As for the issues of sludge, if the ATF does dislodge some, it would be in your best effort to make sure you have cleaned it all out especially after the bad maintance your truck had before you bought it.
Mike

 

Works great, make sure you change the filter twice as recommended and change your oil after about 1500 miles as stated above. Disco Mike knows his s#$t, this is no exception. Believe me, of all the things that are going to make your disco blow up, smoke, leak and whatever else this isn't one of them

 

Well, to be perfectly honest, I forgot to buy 2 filters ( one for the cleanup and one for the oil change) when I was at the dealer. Checked at my local parts store, and they don't even have a listing for Land Rover.

So if its such a bad idea to just re-use the present filter after draining it, I guess it'll have to wait until the next oil change. Wadayatink????

 

I'm surprised your local parts store doesn't have a filter. I've always been able to find one readily available at the larger retailers (Pep Boys, etc.)......even K&N's.

And yes, it's a very bad idea to reuse the filter after that proceedure so definitely wait until you can get the extras.

 

All oil filter manufactures make filters for Rovers. K&N, one of the better filters comes in the long filter as a # 3001. Mobil 1 also makes a great filter.
Mike

 

Well, went to a different store, and found a no name to use for the ATF treatment. To my huge suprise, the ATF oil waas almost as red and clear as it was when I poured it in !?!?.

Now I got some 10w40 oil to put in.

Curiously, after running the 3x10 minutes at 1500 r.p.m, I dove under the truck to flush the oiland was pleasently suprised to see no redoil drops hanging from the bellhousing.