I found the kit you used for the rear subs on eBay and got them. Make em sound new again. Instructions were easy to follow and make it a dream to actually have just enough bass in the vehicle again where the music was great but I didn't sound like a teenager!

 

I did the inline thermostat mod and replaced my leaking water pump this last weekend. The good news is for some reason the engine is quieter and runs smoother, I have a feeling the bad water pump was creating false knock the engine sensors were picking up causing it to pull timing. The bad news is my heater still sucks and gets mildly warm at best. I don't really have any pics of my setup, I can post them later if people want to see my final install. Not sure what I want to do at this point, I might try disconnecting the heater hoses and flushing the heater core to see if I can bring the heater back to life. The good part is it's finally getting warm enough here where I don't really need the heater till September so I have some time to fix it. It was just disapointing to do this nice mod and fix my leak only to find the heater still isn't working right.

 

check to make sure both rubber hoses from the heater core are getting warm/hot and not heavily pressurized. You might just have some air trapped in the system if so. Did you drill the hole with the inline mod in the thermostast?

 

Hoses are warm, drilled hole and marked thermostat housing so the hole faced up when installed to help bleed the system.

 

And you aren't getting any waterfall sound or air out of the bleeder?

 

Nope. I even did the stock bleeding procedure twice. If I'm doing 60+ on the freeway once the engine is warm the heat is better but not hot. But slow speed around town it's hardly warm. It is slightly warmer than it was before doing the water pump and inline thermostat but it isn't where it should be.

 

I'd probally flush the heater core then. I know when my water pump went out (I had just put a new factory 180 degree thermostat in a few hundred miles before) it screwed up the thermostat and I had to replace it and I flushed it out pretty good and had to bleed it 4-5 times to get it working right and the operating temps right too

 

It took 3 flushes (with 2 winters of complaints from my wife and daughters) to finally get all the gunk out of my heater core to finally get heat below 40 MPH. Air in the lines makes a difference but if your heater hoses are both warm and you're not getting heat around town, I would bet the heater core needs a good flushing still.

 

Had a good weened with the D2 this last weekend other than the check engine light coming back. Going to try replacing the purge valve since the gas cap did not fix the large vapor leak fault.

Looks like I have fixed my heater issue and slow coolant leak. I also went out to the junk yard and got a rear bumper to replace mine that got cracked in a small accident when someone couldn't stop in the snow and bumped into me. Also got 6 spring pads to get a little more height, a new window motor, the trim for around the window switches and a factory auxiliary light switch with the body side pig tail(not in the pic).

 

This last week I did a budget lift. Currently the numbers are, front 36 5/8" and the rear is 35" measured from the ground to the bottom of the fender flare with the larger tires in my sig. For the front I used stock D2 purple stripe rear springs and for the back I did D1 lower spring perches with an extra spring pad on the rear perch. It's about 95% how I wanted it, I'd like to get the rear just a little higher but I like the more level look vs. the stock look with a lot of rake to the front. It drives nice other than getting the rear a little higher I'm happy with the results. This isn't the best way for doing a lift but this whole project cost me less than one pair of OME springs.

Now for pictures.

1/2 tank of gas and about 45 pounds of my work tools in the back.


Rear spring vs. stock front spring.


D2 vs D1 rear spring seat.