I removed all speakers from the disco (all 12 I believe). Installed my components up front and mounted the Polk audio tweeters behind the factory a-pillars (few dabs of JB weld). I didn't have to entirely remove both front seats. What I did was remove all 4 bolts securing the seats to the frame of the truck, and tilted them as far back as they could go. This gave me access to work on the wiring, as well as be able to tilt the seat forward again to ensure the amp will fit without issues.

Also, get one of these: Pull the hard to reach wires easily and effectively

 

Are the front door speakers crossed over in the door or prior to the door?

 

I remember the front doors being confusing. I'll try to explain the best I can.

Once the factory amp was removed, I used the wiring guide (I probably still have it saved on my computer) to find the correct wires for each door. FL, FR, RL, RR and from that factory harness I cut those wires, attached 16 gauge speaker wire and ran it back over to my 4 channel amp.

So now that the 4 channel amp is wired "correctly", it is technically only connected to my front 6.5" factory woofers in the doors. I found where that wire ran (inside of the kick panels) and spliced. I connected this wire to my crossover, and from there, attached the existing wire (which I spliced for my crossover) to the speaker out of the crossover.

For the tweeter the wiring that came attached to the Polk's was long enough to run down behind the a-pillar, the side of the dash, and attach to the crossover box which I attached under the top kick panels under the glove box and steering column.

 

Great info. That last part took me a few read throughs, but I'm understanding that you found the stock speaker wire under the kick panels, cut it, and attached the crossover "in-line"? I have Polk home audio, but never tried their car audio. I saw that their speakers aren't terribly priced. How did the tweeters end up looking? Again, thanks for the info, it's giving me some courage to attempt this.

 

The speakers are amazing. I got the DB6501's for $99 shipped from their ebay store. They have all their refurbished items at a heavy discount. But now they can be had for about $120 shipped new from amazon.

The tweeters came out good. Since they are mounted behind the factory a-pillar tweeter grill, you can't even notice it's not factory.

Once tuned correctly, the speakers scream. Max volume has no distortion, but it's so loud I would never keep it close to it's max.

 

Awesome! I'm looking forward to working on this soon. I'll start collecting part shortly. Thanks for all of the info.

 

Let me know what your parts will be and when you plan on doing it. I can write up a diagram so you don't have to go through the trial and error stuff I did.

 

Solid. Thanks!

 

I have a question about the tail subwoofers.

Mine is shot, since all I hear is rattling from the truck back door. I was wonder how good is the actual subwoofers that comes on the Disco ll? The rest of my speakers work since I tested each one out separately. Just my subwoofer is gone.

Should I replace them? Or I was thinking about hooking up my one 12" sub and amp into the track. If I do this I won't replace the tail door subwoofers.

Thanks for the advice.

 

I'd go with a single 12" with a gain control **** so you can dial it back if you don't want so much bass.