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Bad D2 SE U-joints?

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  #1  
Old 05-04-2015 | 01:14 PM
DiscoJ01's Avatar
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Lightbulb Bad D2 SE U-joints?

Hey guys,

I have a 2001 D2 SE. Last week I started feeling a slight vibration going down the interstate on a long trip I was on. Since then the vibration has gotten significantly worse, and is particularly bad while accelerating, or hard braking.

I have 5 brothers and a dad who are mechanics and/or have worked on cars their whole lives, and they say it's bad u-joints. Not being near my boys, I called the local shop to price a replacement, and he's quoted $300 for front u joints change + back shaft change + labor.

Few questions...

1. does this seem high?
2. I called a friend at the parts store and, upon digging into it, says that I have four identical u joints on this D2, and don't need a rear shaft change. Is that true?
3. The reason for number 2^ is, he's saying that he can't find a part number for "rear u joints" on my all wheel drive D2, and it's actually a bigger piece on the rear that's needed, not actual u joints. is this correct?
4. Is there a different issue that the vibration could be aside from u joints that I should be wary of?

Thanks for any help!
 
  #2  
Old 05-04-2015 | 01:36 PM
OffroadFrance's Avatar
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From: Near Bordeaux, France
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1 Wheel balance
2 Steering drag link or track control rod ball ends.
3 CV joint(s)
4 Drive shafts.

My guess is 1 or 2 but all are easily checked out but I reckon steering joints is my first visit by the stated symptoms. In an hour underneath you can check out all the issues. Don't be fooled by the appearance of the rear shaft rubber rotoflex as if it's old or cracked it's probably knackered.
 
  #3  
Old 05-04-2015 | 06:42 PM
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Honestly you can get a new improved drive shaft for $250. The extra money for the new shaft would be off set by the labor savings. Jmho
 
  #4  
Old 05-04-2015 | 07:20 PM
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Stop driving it until you've inspected the propshaft u-joints. Odds are good you'll find something like this



or approaching it.
 
  #5  
Old 05-04-2015 | 08:48 PM
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If the universal joints are bad. Check to seecif you have a CDL. If you do, you can pull the driveshaft, lock the CDL andcstill drive you DII.
 
  #6  
Old 05-04-2015 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by acamato
If the universal joints are bad. Check to seecif you have a CDL. If you do, you can pull the driveshaft, lock the CDL andcstill drive you DII.
If it's an '01 then you have it, they didn't remove it until '02. This is something you could do with a simple wrench set. This will, of course, make the disco a rear wheel drive vehicle instead of all wheel drive, but if you don't off road it then this shouldn't be an issue. Well, as long as you don't gun it at every red light. Running only RWD instead of AWD will put more stress on the rear diff, just don't push it too hard and you'll be fine.

That said, Lucky 8 has some pretty decent drive shafts at an even more decent price. Give them a shout, because if that driveshaft goes then you'll be buying a new transmission because of the hole the driveshaft knocked in yours.
 
  #7  
Old 05-05-2015 | 10:51 AM
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Stopped 1/2 way threw 01 iirc
 
  #8  
Old 05-05-2015 | 11:59 AM
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^ correct
 
  #9  
Old 05-06-2015 | 02:05 PM
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Took it to the mechanic this morning, and he says my front driveshaft needs to be rebuilt. He's charging $465 for the rebuild and reinstall. This sound about right to anyone?

Originally Posted by DiscoJ01
Hey guys,

I have a 2001 D2 SE. Last week I started feeling a slight vibration going down the interstate on a long trip I was on. Since then the vibration has gotten significantly worse, and is particularly bad while accelerating, or hard braking.

I have 5 brothers and a dad who are mechanics and/or have worked on cars their whole lives, and they say it's bad u-joints. Not being near my boys, I called the local shop to price a replacement, and he's quoted $300 for front u joints change + back shaft change + labor.

Few questions...

1. does this seem high?
2. I called a friend at the parts store and, upon digging into it, says that I have four identical u joints on this D2, and don't need a rear shaft change. Is that true?
3. The reason for number 2^ is, he's saying that he can't find a part number for "rear u joints" on my all wheel drive D2, and it's actually a bigger piece on the rear that's needed, not actual u joints. is this correct?
4. Is there a different issue that the vibration could be aside from u joints that I should be wary of?

Thanks for any help!
 
  #10  
Old 05-06-2015 | 02:09 PM
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From: dallas texas
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you can get a brand new one from l8 for 250.....
all you need is 2 9/16"
wrenches and 8 new nylocks and about 30 minutes
 


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