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Bad Fuel Pump Disco 2 SE7

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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 07:45 AM
  #1  
mcaramb's Avatar
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Default Bad Fuel Pump Disco 2 SE7

Ok this is weird, she sat up for about a month, then i moved her to the front yard. Now she won't start. No fuel coming out of the EVAC schrader test port. Swapped fuel pump relay, checked both fuel pump fuses all fine. Pressed and held the inertial switch for 5 seconds and released, but haven't tried bypassing it yet. Still no gas.

So I go into the trunk and pop the gas tank cover under the carpet (I had already cut the carpet long ago to make access easier to the fuel pump for a leaky gasket before), and pop off the fuel line from the pump. I Put the key in the fire position, no pump action. but while turning the engine over, the pump starts going, but in spurts, not a constant flow. Is this normal? In my other cars, the pump runs when you have the key in the run position initially for a few seconds before turning over, in this situation, nothing happens until you crank it. No check engine light comes on while cranking (just the regular service engine soon, but that's always on cause the faulty knock sensor). I Pulled codes, and it just shows the one for the knock sensor and one for cylinder 3 misfire which is new). But Regardless, I'm still not even seeing the spurts of gas its attempting to put out at the schraeder port by the firewall. Is there something between the gas line at the tank and the shraeder check port that could be clogged? I mean it could just be too low pressure to make the gas up the line cause it's just spurting, but I dunno.

*DISCLAIMER: I’m not advocating at all testing your pump at the tank! Super dangerous, especially if you make a spark. Use the fuel pressure test port at the engine if you can find it. I suspected a plugged line however so I tested at the pump but to do so I cut the line and extended it with some hose, but again do so at your own risk.

UPDATE: After checking for voltage at blue/white and common wires at the pump, it shows 0v when turned to run position, but while cranking the voltage varies wildly between 6-12 volts intermittently which is what is proabably causing the pump to spurt. Somethings not right electrically. Maybe a bad ground came loose? Or maybe is there any other relays I should be checking? So far, I've just swapped out the one under the hood with the windsheild wiper relay and checked the one fuse there and one under the driver's side. All fine.
Also, I need to double check, but am pretty sure I have spark, and this car doesn't have secondary air.

Lastly, can I just hotwire the pump to stay on all the time while the ignition is on, or will it build up back pressure and hurt the pump? ie: does it normally cut off and on or vary in speed based on a back pressure sensor?

thanks for any advice before I spend some duckies on a new pump or go about checking or replacing the CPS

-Mike
 

Last edited by mcaramb; Aug 6, 2020 at 10:58 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 03:05 PM
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I'm having the exact same issue. Just bought my '03 last week. Ran great. Then it wouldn't start. She'd turn over, start, idle at about 1,000 RPMs for 3-5 seconds and die. If I tried immediately again she'd only crank but not start. Wait an hour and she'd start & idle for 5 seconds before puttering out.

Computer (and this forum) said to change the crankshaft positioning sensor. Did that this morning. Put the key in, cranked, started and just before I could say "oh yeah!" - she died. Tried again and she'd just turn over without starting. Waited an hour and she'd start and run for 5 seconds, and die like it ran out of gas.

Sorry I can't be much more help, but I'm hoping we can follow each other's threads - seems we have a common issue (whatever it is). Good luck!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 03:08 PM
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One last thing - my pump also has no electricity feeding it unless the engine is cranking. I read somewhere it's the way Land Rovers are built. The pump doesn't come on and "hum" for a few seconds prior to starting like most other cars.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 01:28 PM
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Ah thank you! That's reassuring about no voltage till cranking... the voltage variance I saw during cranking could just be dirty DC from the alternator/distribution system while it's under weird loads until it starts.

Anway, today I'm going to double check for spark at the plugs with a $5 spark tester from Harbor Freight and that will for sure eliminate the CPS as being the issue.

I'm also going to try hot-wiring a 12v battery directly to the connector on the pump and keep the schraeder value open with a screwdriver. If gas comes pumping out in a regular stream, I'll know the pump is ok as well, but I'm betting it's the fuel pump crapping out.

Will keep you updated!
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 06:20 PM
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Ok, got her running. The little harbor freight spark tester works great, and I had spark on several cylinders so it wasn't the CPS.

I think it was just air or gunk in the gas line and possibly a weak pump. What confused me is because I could see fuel coming out of the pump at the pump if I pulled the fuel line, but up by the firewall I wasn't seeing any fuel... however I think I was looking at the wrong Schraeder port (see pics below): I think this was actually the emissions check valve (I sorta even says so on the label.. lol EVAC test port). So for future reference folks, WHERE THE FRICK IS THE FUEL PRESSURE TEST PORT?

Anyway, I ended up disconnecting the pump electrical connector from the pump and hooking a 12v UPS battery directly to the pump leads (blue/white (+12v) and the black (ground)) with some alligator jumpers and let it spin the pump for a bit off the UPS battery, then started the car while the pump was running and still disconnected from the car. Vroom... there she goes. Turned it off, reconnected the electrical connector to the car and she started back up again and ran like a champ.

So... it looks like air pockets or grungy can build up in the gas line and because this car doesn't pre-spin the pump, you can get air pockets and if your pump isn't strong enough, it won't clear it unless you prime it manually with a strong battery and push it out.

Anyway, here's a pic of an easy, clean cut for the carpet to get to the fuel pump as well. I don't know why most people don't do it this way.. one simple straight line cut and it looks and works great. just pop off the two covers and it opens barn door style.




 

Last edited by mcaramb; Aug 6, 2020 at 06:23 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 07:10 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by mcaramb
Ok, got her running. The little harbor freight spark tester works great, and I had spark on several cylinders so it wasn't the CPS.

I think it was just air or gunk in the gas line and possibly a weak pump. What confused me is because I could see fuel coming out of the pump at the pump if I pulled the fuel line, but up by the firewall I wasn't seeing any fuel... however I think I was looking at the wrong Schraeder port (see pics below): I think this was actually the emissions check valve (I sorta even says so on the label.. lol EVAC test port). So for future reference folks, WHERE THE FRICK IS THE FUEL PRESSURE TEST PORT?

Anyway, I ended up disconnecting the pump electrical connector from the pump and hooking a 12v UPS battery directly to the pump leads (blue/white (+12v) and the black (ground)) with some alligator jumpers and let it spin the pump for a bit off the UPS battery, then started the car while the pump was running and still disconnected from the car. Vroom... there she goes. Turned it off, reconnected the electrical connector to the car and she started back up again and ran like a champ.

So... it looks like air pockets or grungy can build up in the gas line and because this car doesn't pre-spin the pump, you can get air pockets and if your pump isn't strong enough, it won't clear it unless you prime it manually with a strong battery and push it out.

Anyway, here's a pic of an easy, clean cut for the carpet to get to the fuel pump as well. I don't know why most people don't do it this way.. one simple straight line cut and it looks and works great. just pop off the two covers and it opens barn door style.






i think your going to keep having issues. You probably have a pump that’s on the way out.
They are so cheap just change it
 
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