Bad Vibration
Good day to you all, done much reading in the site and decided to join.
The problem: there is a vibration from while driving
it goes away if turning slight to the right.
It is related to the speed of travel.
the vibration varies: at times is almost not there, other times is totally annoying.
What I did:
-run circles in an empty parking lot: no difference left or right turns, BUT with the engine off while turning it sounds like 5 to 7 gear teeth touching something every turn, no difference left or right turns.
-lifted the front end and checked the wheels for looseness: none
-checked the propshaft front and back for play: none
-used a very large pliers to compress the balljoints: no play
-checked the diff oil level, smell and color: ok
The ABS light is on because the L front sensor is bad and since my driveway is long and steep, I like to stop and not sliding down when it's icy and waking up the neighbours with the ABS clicking madly.
The Sensor is actually unplugged from the harness so it doesn't give bad signals to the electronics.
The Check Engine light is on but it does that to let me know it actually works. Probabily engine misfiring.
The shocks look good, not "wet"
Thank you
The problem: there is a vibration from while driving
it goes away if turning slight to the right.
It is related to the speed of travel.
the vibration varies: at times is almost not there, other times is totally annoying.
What I did:
-run circles in an empty parking lot: no difference left or right turns, BUT with the engine off while turning it sounds like 5 to 7 gear teeth touching something every turn, no difference left or right turns.
-lifted the front end and checked the wheels for looseness: none
-checked the propshaft front and back for play: none
-used a very large pliers to compress the balljoints: no play
-checked the diff oil level, smell and color: ok
The ABS light is on because the L front sensor is bad and since my driveway is long and steep, I like to stop and not sliding down when it's icy and waking up the neighbours with the ABS clicking madly.
The Sensor is actually unplugged from the harness so it doesn't give bad signals to the electronics.
The Check Engine light is on but it does that to let me know it actually works. Probabily engine misfiring.
The shocks look good, not "wet"
Thank you
Have you rebuilt the drive shaft with greasable UJ's yet? I know that several people on here have checked their DII front drive shaft and found no play but upon pulling it apart it was in really bad shape. It doesn't say in your sig and I know that it will most likely be one of the first questions the guru's on here will want to know. If they are greasable what intervals are you greasing them on?
Thank you for the fast replies
xceller8: the right hub was rebuilt 3 years ago the the best mechanic, I trust his work. the left... not yet but... the noise/vibration seems to come from there.
discomedic4: the props are not lubed regularly. The LubeJoint I take the disco to doesn't really know how... They are just grease monkeys in an pretty premises. I'm no longer going there since they totally buggered up a wheel allignement costing me a lot. IDIOTS! This reminds me it's time to change the oil.
I'll leave work early and go buy a grease gun today.
Any particular type of grease you guys suggest?
Yes, I'm at work and the boss doesn't mind me being in LRF.
xceller8: the right hub was rebuilt 3 years ago the the best mechanic, I trust his work. the left... not yet but... the noise/vibration seems to come from there.
discomedic4: the props are not lubed regularly. The LubeJoint I take the disco to doesn't really know how... They are just grease monkeys in an pretty premises. I'm no longer going there since they totally buggered up a wheel allignement costing me a lot. IDIOTS! This reminds me it's time to change the oil.
I'll leave work early and go buy a grease gun today.
Any particular type of grease you guys suggest?
Yes, I'm at work and the boss doesn't mind me being in LRF.
Those u-joints have to be done 2 times a year, you always rebuild hubs in pairs, not one at a time and have the swivels had their fluid changed and the preload set on them??
By the way the rear hubs also need to be rebuild on a 30,000 mile schedule if you don't want the bearings to fail.
By the way the rear hubs also need to be rebuild on a 30,000 mile schedule if you don't want the bearings to fail.
If the vibration changes when turning it's unlikely to be u-joint related as they turn the same speed no matter your direction of travel. That said they are due for replacement if they never have been replaced, and you haven't lubed them every 5,000 miles or every 3 months, whichever comes first.
It could be hub bearings because the stresses on them change as you change direction.
If you've never rebuilt the hubs other than the one 3 years ago I'd do all 4.
Bearings are 2 per hub of Timken SET37, SKF BR37 or *** KIT38
One hub seal per hub ( prefer double lip defender RTC3511 seals)
4 hub nut lock tabs
Loctite 222
4 drive flange gaskets
But my bet is on the CV joints, though they typically click on turning when they are failing.
It could be hub bearings because the stresses on them change as you change direction.
If you've never rebuilt the hubs other than the one 3 years ago I'd do all 4.
Bearings are 2 per hub of Timken SET37, SKF BR37 or *** KIT38
One hub seal per hub ( prefer double lip defender RTC3511 seals)
4 hub nut lock tabs
Loctite 222
4 drive flange gaskets
But my bet is on the CV joints, though they typically click on turning when they are failing.
Last night I lubed the props and UJs
Today I went to a tournament and there was no changed in vibration.
After the 50 miles return trip I read the temperatures in farenheight with a reliable digital thermometer.
The front diff: 192
oil filter: 197
oil pan: 208
steering damper: 95
tires: L=115 R=114
Ball: L=100 R=110
Flange: L=98 R=95
I ignored the reak axle.
The right side was renewed about 2 years ago after the bearing seized. An indipendent assessment found that the service dealership was responsible for the bearing seizure. I'm not sure how he concluded this but LR paid for the rebuild.
Just a note: if I enter the highway by a long curve, here is a right side, the vibration is immediate and lasts for a long time, but eventually it diminishes. It sure feels like the ABS ring is loose and 5 to 7 teeth touch something.
Today I went to a tournament and there was no changed in vibration.
After the 50 miles return trip I read the temperatures in farenheight with a reliable digital thermometer.
The front diff: 192
oil filter: 197
oil pan: 208
steering damper: 95
tires: L=115 R=114
Ball: L=100 R=110
Flange: L=98 R=95
I ignored the reak axle.
The right side was renewed about 2 years ago after the bearing seized. An indipendent assessment found that the service dealership was responsible for the bearing seizure. I'm not sure how he concluded this but LR paid for the rebuild.
Just a note: if I enter the highway by a long curve, here is a right side, the vibration is immediate and lasts for a long time, but eventually it diminishes. It sure feels like the ABS ring is loose and 5 to 7 teeth touch something.
Sounds more like a hub bearing than the CV based on that description. The long slow curve is putting more weight on one side's bearings, less on the other, so the loading is changed.
CV's tend to be noisy on sharper turns.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




