Hey there,

So a issue recently came about that is rather unusual from what I've seen. I get out to my car one day after work and open the door. Lights and beeps of the norm as I'm sticking the key into the ignition and as soon as I turn it, all power is gone. I hear that click right as I turn it but then it is dead. Initially, I thought I had a battery dead. I tried to get a jump but it didn't work. For whatever reason after taking the cables off, I pressed down on my battery cables a little. I guess out of hopefulness I went and turned the key and boom, fired up no issue.

So 1 out of 3 times, I go out to my truck or turn it off I need to press the cables down or shimmy them a little to the left or right. The connection seems to back to good. I am thinking it is the cables themselves or one of them for that matter. I will be getting the battery tested for ****s and giggles later. Otherwise, I guess I could start on the negative cable, as seen here

Discovery II Battery, Electrical - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

item number 11

Thanks for any input on the matter

 

Sound's like a bad connection. Clean the leads and tighten them good, that should fix it.

 

I'll give that a try first, thanks

 

Also make absolutely sure the autobox is in P park or N neutral otherwise it looks/sounds dead but it defo won't start in gear, i.e. D, 1, 2 or 3. Been there ..... done that

 

Had the same problem about 5 or 6 weeks ago in dead of winter. The truck would be dead intermittently, then magically come to life. Volt meter showed charged battery and alternator working fine. I started a thread back then and got some valuable tips from folks on the forum. It was a problem with the cable terminals - specifically the ground cable. The terminals just won't tighten enough on some newer battery posts, which must be a slightly different size than they used to be. You can get post shims, install new cables, install new terminals (the American type that really clamp, not the bizarre LR type), or do as I did and use a Stromberg/SU/etc carburetor tool.

If your terminal will push all the way onto the post and not tighten enough to be immovable then you will need post shims if you don't want to replace the terminal clamp.

My terminal clamp seated most of the way but the top surfaces of each were still not flush. The top surface of the terminal was sitting slightly above the top of the post no matter what I did with the little nuts on it. it wouldn't open the way the clamp type do so it wouldn't seat down quite all the way on the post. I then used the carburetor tool. I happen to have one in my other older Brit POS. After I seated and tightened the cable terminal as much as possible I took that rubber mallet and lightly whacked down on the cable terminal a few times. It seated flush and tight. If I need to I can pry it loose.

 

I had a feeling it might be in that realm of things Muscarello. I'll be choosing one of those options. I'll update after fixing the issue