If the battery is a hundred percent and the terminals are clean and tight...the starter would be a likely location. Make sure you have clean, tight connection at starter and voltage at both terminals, large (constant 12.4V) and small (12.0V when key is second position). If you have voltage. Maybe tap on it while someone tries to turn it over with key.

Brian.

 

I put in a Parts Player new Starter from Amazon. The install is not terrible, but patience required.

The heat shield, battery connection, and Lucar connection can be done from above. I had to move my underbelly panel, but not remove, and I did not get the heat shield out until the starter was removed. I only removed it to clean it.

I had long Hex sockets, and in hindsight would have gotten short ones. The long 8mm hex socket was nice for the lower bolt which is tucked in out of sight.

You could probably get away with not lifting the car, but that would be really tight.

The new starter sounds great, and after heated up started up immediately so I believe that I have found the culprit.

Thanks for everyone's advice.

 

Hey Everyone,
i have a 2001 LRD2 and since I’ve owned it I’ve just lifted it, New rims and tires, front and rear bumpers and a winch. When the winch was installed I did it wrong so I ended up draining the battery and had to correct the issue, problem fixed.

Then the battery died again some time later so I thought again it was the winch so I had the battery charged and I got a cutoff for the winch and was back to normal, I thought, the battery was drained again... so I got a new alternator and I ran the truck and disconnected the battery and it ran so I thought I had fixed the problem. 2.5 weeks later here I am again charging the battery.

i read on here to run a test light to the battery cable and the post and timber the fuses to locate the drain but the light never went off... all fuses were check in the truck and under the seat and hood but again the light never turned off.

So then I read on here that when you lift the rear and removed the SLS to coils that I’m to shut the power off to the Air compressor bc that could drain the battery... how do I do that and if when I removed the fuse for that wouldn’t the test light turn off?!

anything im missing here?

Thanks!

Instagram : resurrection_discovery2

 

First, I see this is your first post here. Welcome to the forum.

There is a setting in the Self-Leveling and Anti-Locking Brakes (SLABS) ECU that should be changed from air springs to coils if the air springs are converted to coil. That's the best and most sure way to avoid the problem of the SLABS and the compressor draining the battery. I tried other methods that either were not successful or which caused warning chimes at speeds above 20 mph. Changing that setting requires a Hawkeye or other suitable diagnostic tool.

Another way to do it discussed in another thread in the last day or two is to swap in a SLABS from a salvage truck that is already setup for coils. Doing that can be 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of paying a shop to connect their Hawkeye. Paul Grant or abran on this forum can probably sell you a known-good, known-coils SLABS.

 

Hey thanks, Im still novice to this site, I do have a LRD2 donor but it’s a ‘99 and mines is a ‘01, would it matter any?

 

SLABS Unit is 100% PNP. I've never run into one that required anything.

 

SLABS are interchangeable ‘99-‘04. Plug and play. The ‘03-‘04 are preferred if you plan to upgrade the t-case shifter to utilize the CDL.