noticed it for the first time a few days ago, battery light stayed lit for about 10 seconds and then it went out. parked it in the garage and put the charger on it for a 2amp charge for a few days. Just went out and hooked up my fluke multi meter to the batter and set it for DC volts. battery fully charged read like just under 13v. on start up the battery dropped to 10v and then running came to just about 14v. idling for about a minute, i watched the voltage, then it dropped to 12.2v and the battery light on the dash came on, I decided to rev the motor a little between idle and 2k rpms and the voltage never changed. About 10 seconds later the voltage came back up and the battery light went out.

Sooo... is this a bad connection some where? Alternator going out?

 

Check all the connections first especially the ground. At this point theres no need to worry yet. If the light stays on steady, then alternator is compromised.

But if you need to upgrade to 150 amps, here what I got and have it for 6 mos already
https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_n...72.m2749.l2658

 

Sounds like it's time to slap in a 150AMP 00-02 P38 RR Alternator. I've had good luck using Parts Player Alternator's in LR's. Should be around 134.00 on Ebay.

I think your regulator is going out. I saw an 03 Valeo Alternator do that & my friend trusted it a bit to much right up until the moment it failed and left him stranded.

 

is the regulator on the alternator? so your saying i should buy this 150amp off ebay and keep it in the truck when this one possibly fails. lol

 

Yeah always good to be prepared. Or go to a local pick n pull yard & grab a 25.00 one. Pick a non rebuilt alternator and a wrecked vehicle to pull it from aka = Alternator wasn't dead and it is probably fine for 25.00.

 

Any of the chain auto parts stores will perform a comprehensive charging/starting test using their diagnostic equipment designed for the purpose. Just stop by and let them perform the test.

 

ordered this ebay item today .

 

so looks like i need to take the shroud off, fan off, loosen belt and remove it. then just disconnect the alternator? of course there is disconnecting the batter first all together. Any fun stuff i need to know about this job before the part shows up and i dig into this?

 

Oh, also noticed a braided metal strap on the driver side attached to the fire wall then goes down behind the driver side of the engine. whats that? and the braided strap is just pushed over a threaded stud, should there be a nut on there to press that braided strap firm to the firewall? because mine doesn't have one.

 

It's an important ground connection.

My son has my truck out of town so I can't look at mine, but it should at least have a nut securing it. I recall it being bolted to the firewall, but it could be that it simply slides over a stud and is held tight with a nut as you suggest. In any event it's important for it to have a good metal to metal, conductive connection.