becoming a LR owner
Thread Starter
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Overlanding
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Bolton, Ontario, Canada
becoming a LR owner
hello all, I'm a newbe here who finally is buying his first LR (I totaled my van a couple of days ago and decided 'this is a sing': buy what you always wanted to have.
It's been mydesire since I saw one in London years ago, I think itwas a DEfender A driver, ruggedlylooking gent had a big parrot siting on a top of passenger seat. It moved my imagination, and although I haven't gone to Africa and don't own a parrot yet,I have to start somwhere..
Despite days of research cannot really decide witch one to buy.
I'm aiming at aprr. 150Kkm on Disco 1 or 2, between 1995 &1999 (that's what fits my budget right now). As it's going to be a car I'm going to have a relationship with and I'd like to make it an easier one as to come to service & repairs, because I intend to do as much as is possible myself on my driveway and in my buddy's garage. I'm pretty good at fixing ,been doing industrial and consumer electronics repairs for over 30y, and repairing my first Fiat 600engineon the kitchen floor.
So if you guys could ease my pain and tell me which version among those would be easier for a newbe like me?
Are there any serious reliability issues with the above models, that I should be aware of?
I know basics: where to look for rust, not to buy air susspended chassis etc. and have a general sound knowlwdge of buying a used car.
I guess you're all tired of those sort of questions, but I'd appreciate your effor to answer them, a lot.
Have a good one.
It's been mydesire since I saw one in London years ago, I think itwas a DEfender A driver, ruggedlylooking gent had a big parrot siting on a top of passenger seat. It moved my imagination, and although I haven't gone to Africa and don't own a parrot yet,I have to start somwhere..
Despite days of research cannot really decide witch one to buy.
I'm aiming at aprr. 150Kkm on Disco 1 or 2, between 1995 &1999 (that's what fits my budget right now). As it's going to be a car I'm going to have a relationship with and I'd like to make it an easier one as to come to service & repairs, because I intend to do as much as is possible myself on my driveway and in my buddy's garage. I'm pretty good at fixing ,been doing industrial and consumer electronics repairs for over 30y, and repairing my first Fiat 600engineon the kitchen floor.
So if you guys could ease my pain and tell me which version among those would be easier for a newbe like me?
Are there any serious reliability issues with the above models, that I should be aware of?
I know basics: where to look for rust, not to buy air susspended chassis etc. and have a general sound knowlwdge of buying a used car.
I guess you're all tired of those sort of questions, but I'd appreciate your effor to answer them, a lot.
Have a good one.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 1
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
RE: becoming a LR owner
Greetings. First, having an idea of where you are from and what your budget is, would help steering you in the right direction. I searched for some 6 months before finally buying my Land Rover some 1 1/2 year ago, so I am noexpert by any means. I originally absolutely wanted a D1, since this is the model that I had fell in love with in the mid-1990s.
But after doing my home works and shopping and shopping, I was really turned off by the condition of all the D1s I saw and test drove ( 7 all together), and started looking at D2s. Darn, they may look almost identical, but I can assure you that they are completely different in the comfort, and driving department.
With this said, I would recommend a 1999 D2, or a bit more recent if your budget allows, especially if this is gonna be a street vehicle with occasional trails. If it is mostly gonna be used on the trails, then D1s are supposedly better because of better departure angle.
You seem to have done some homeworks of your own. On the SLS ( air suspension)issue, some hate it, and some swear by it. This here forum has the most pro SLSowners on all the web.
I personnally think it was probably a good thing when new, but as the vehicles get older and out of warranty, I feel that people should get rid of them on the first occasion, because it usually letspeople down without warning and this can mean in the worst of places and at the wrong time. So if I can quote the rover gurus in my club, and one of them is my local dealer's service manager who's been with Land Rover for the last 15 years, ' I can't confirm that Land rover has the worst reliablity in the automotive world, but I can definitely assure you that the air suspension is the most unreliable feature that Land Rover came up with....D2 included'.
But after doing my home works and shopping and shopping, I was really turned off by the condition of all the D1s I saw and test drove ( 7 all together), and started looking at D2s. Darn, they may look almost identical, but I can assure you that they are completely different in the comfort, and driving department.
With this said, I would recommend a 1999 D2, or a bit more recent if your budget allows, especially if this is gonna be a street vehicle with occasional trails. If it is mostly gonna be used on the trails, then D1s are supposedly better because of better departure angle.
You seem to have done some homeworks of your own. On the SLS ( air suspension)issue, some hate it, and some swear by it. This here forum has the most pro SLSowners on all the web.
I personnally think it was probably a good thing when new, but as the vehicles get older and out of warranty, I feel that people should get rid of them on the first occasion, because it usually letspeople down without warning and this can mean in the worst of places and at the wrong time. So if I can quote the rover gurus in my club, and one of them is my local dealer's service manager who's been with Land Rover for the last 15 years, ' I can't confirm that Land rover has the worst reliablity in the automotive world, but I can definitely assure you that the air suspension is the most unreliable feature that Land Rover came up with....D2 included'.
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: MI Upper Peninsula
RE: becoming a LR owner
Just to give you an idea...my 1999 D2 with 140k cost me 4,850 USD late last year. It had deferred maintenance, however, otherwise quite clean and had likely never seen so much as a dirt road. If you opt for a D2, first thing to watch is your front driveshaft.
With the guidance off all of the great folks here on the forums I have been able to do all of the work on my trucks (water pump, shocks, starter, etc).
I think you'll find a wide range of prices...each with their own plus' and minus'...
Good luck and happy LR hunting!
With the guidance off all of the great folks here on the forums I have been able to do all of the work on my trucks (water pump, shocks, starter, etc).
I think you'll find a wide range of prices...each with their own plus' and minus'...
Good luck and happy LR hunting!
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Bolton, Ontario, Canada
RE: becoming a LR owner
ORIGINAL: Darover
Greetings. First, having an idea of where you are from and what your budget is, would help steering you in the right direction. I searched for some 6 months before finally buying my Land Rover some 1 1/2 year ago, so I am noexpert by any means. I originally absolutely wanted a D1, since this is the model that I had fell in love with in the mid-1990s.
But after doing my home works and shopping and shopping, I was really turned off by the condition of all the D1s I saw and test drove ( 7 all together), and started looking at D2s. Darn, they may look almost identical, but I can assure you that they are completely different in the comfort, and driving department.
With this said, I would recommend a 1999 D2, or a bit more recent if your budget allows, especially if this is gonna be a street vehicle with occasional trails. If it is mostly gonna be used on the trails, then D1s are supposedly better because of better departure angle.
You seem to have done some homeworks of your own. On the SLS ( air suspension)issue, some hate it, and some swear by it. This here forum has the most pro SLSowners on all the web.
I personnally think it was probably a good thing when new, but as the vehicles get older and out of warranty, I feel that people should get rid of them on the first occasion, because it usually letspeople down without warning and this can mean in the worst of places and at the wrong time. So if I can quote the rover gurus in my club, and one of them is my local dealer's service manager who's been with Land Rover for the last 15 years, ' I can't confirm that Land rover has the worst reliablity in the automotive world, but I can definitely assure you that the air suspension is the most unreliable feature that Land Rover came up with....D2 included'.
Greetings. First, having an idea of where you are from and what your budget is, would help steering you in the right direction. I searched for some 6 months before finally buying my Land Rover some 1 1/2 year ago, so I am noexpert by any means. I originally absolutely wanted a D1, since this is the model that I had fell in love with in the mid-1990s.
But after doing my home works and shopping and shopping, I was really turned off by the condition of all the D1s I saw and test drove ( 7 all together), and started looking at D2s. Darn, they may look almost identical, but I can assure you that they are completely different in the comfort, and driving department.
With this said, I would recommend a 1999 D2, or a bit more recent if your budget allows, especially if this is gonna be a street vehicle with occasional trails. If it is mostly gonna be used on the trails, then D1s are supposedly better because of better departure angle.
You seem to have done some homeworks of your own. On the SLS ( air suspension)issue, some hate it, and some swear by it. This here forum has the most pro SLSowners on all the web.
I personnally think it was probably a good thing when new, but as the vehicles get older and out of warranty, I feel that people should get rid of them on the first occasion, because it usually letspeople down without warning and this can mean in the worst of places and at the wrong time. So if I can quote the rover gurus in my club, and one of them is my local dealer's service manager who's been with Land Rover for the last 15 years, ' I can't confirm that Land rover has the worst reliablity in the automotive world, but I can definitely assure you that the air suspension is the most unreliable feature that Land Rover came up with....D2 included'.
I've test driven both, and I can see the difference, but have not been deterred by D1 performance/comfort, may be because I'm from a country (Poland) where in the times I lived there, having any car was a luxury.
I'm now to see D1 with 145K. Saw two in in very good condition but carfax report indicated odometer roll back.
Oh man, it's a helpfull tool, there is so many trying to take you for a ride.
Went yesterday to see an auction piece D2 '99, 123K, - could get for $7K, but air suspended plus some other small stuff. But otherwise v. clean.
When coming to use, probably 70/30, budget up to '99 D2.
So when servicing challanges/cost is concerned (comfort is not an issue)D1 or D2 is the question?. assuming same phisical condition and milage..
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 1
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
RE: becoming a LR owner
I agree that given the fact that both D1 and D2 are in good condition, it becomes a mather of preference. If it wouldn't have been for the poor condition of the D1s I saw, I would most likely be driving that instead of a D2. But once you drive a D2, it becomes a whole new ball game.
RE: becoming a LR owner
If you will be doing 90% of the repairs yourself buy a DI, they are a very basic build and very easy to work on, tune ups take less than a hour, DII's take half a day and you have to remove the intake plenum.
Front wheel bearings on a DI are replaceable, on a DII you have to replace the whole hub, much more costly.
The front driveshaft on a DII needs to be rebuild As Soon As Possible.
The DI has fewer electronics and so in my opinion less prone to problems.
The 3.9L engine has a distibitor, the 4.0 has electronic ignition.
DII's have BOSCH engine management, DI's have GEMS.
As far as axles, engines, transmission and transfer case they are almost identical.
If you are looking at a diesel or the 4 cylinder engine then most of use cant help you, we only have the petrol V8 engine here in the US.
Front wheel bearings on a DI are replaceable, on a DII you have to replace the whole hub, much more costly.
The front driveshaft on a DII needs to be rebuild As Soon As Possible.
The DI has fewer electronics and so in my opinion less prone to problems.
The 3.9L engine has a distibitor, the 4.0 has electronic ignition.
DII's have BOSCH engine management, DI's have GEMS.
As far as axles, engines, transmission and transfer case they are almost identical.
If you are looking at a diesel or the 4 cylinder engine then most of use cant help you, we only have the petrol V8 engine here in the US.
Thread Starter
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Overlanding
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Bolton, Ontario, Canada
RE: becoming a LR owner
Thanks guys, that pretty much may tip me torward the D1 I just looked at.
130Kkm, good mainanace record, noted on carfax- so it was most likely in LR dealership or a big service.
Comes from British Columbia, so very little rust on the frame, body ideal, not a hint of leak anywhere,every power feature works,
radio's dead but that's what I fix for a living.
Only thing that is not right is ABS light goes off after couple of min of ideling (any comments on that?)
Shifts OK between L & H, didn't check diff lock though-forgot in all excitment.
Dealer wants $4900 cert. & E-tested. So most likely I'll take it, after some bargaining of course..
I guess you'll be hearing from me soon, as I understand 60Kmile service is a must, and although I read a bit about it, I'm not sure if I uderstood all.
130Kkm, good mainanace record, noted on carfax- so it was most likely in LR dealership or a big service.
Comes from British Columbia, so very little rust on the frame, body ideal, not a hint of leak anywhere,every power feature works,
radio's dead but that's what I fix for a living.
Only thing that is not right is ABS light goes off after couple of min of ideling (any comments on that?)
Shifts OK between L & H, didn't check diff lock though-forgot in all excitment.
Dealer wants $4900 cert. & E-tested. So most likely I'll take it, after some bargaining of course..
I guess you'll be hearing from me soon, as I understand 60Kmile service is a must, and although I read a bit about it, I'm not sure if I uderstood all.
TReK
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 2
From: Dallas TX
RE: becoming a LR owner
Kaz
You took me back,, I learned how to drive a Seat 850 (a Spanish Fiat).
I have a 1996Disco I and like the simple things about it.
I have driven a 1993 Defender 110 ,1997 Defender 90 and a 2006 LR3 all are Land Rover but all have different personallties.
Find the one that fits you, if the door dings bother you what will happen when you scratch it off road?
As a Do It Your Self person you may like a Disco I better but don't over look a early Disco II.
This is the time to buy you can get a Disco cheap so don't buy the first one,drive every one.
Set back $1500 to $2000 for repairs in the first 6 mo's
you may not need it but most are sold needing repairs.
You took me back,, I learned how to drive a Seat 850 (a Spanish Fiat).
I have a 1996Disco I and like the simple things about it.
I have driven a 1993 Defender 110 ,1997 Defender 90 and a 2006 LR3 all are Land Rover but all have different personallties.
Find the one that fits you, if the door dings bother you what will happen when you scratch it off road?
As a Do It Your Self person you may like a Disco I better but don't over look a early Disco II.
This is the time to buy you can get a Disco cheap so don't buy the first one,drive every one.
Set back $1500 to $2000 for repairs in the first 6 mo's
you may not need it but most are sold needing repairs.
RE: becoming a LR owner
The ABS light is supposed to go off after you start the trk. If it stays on you havea ABS fault.
When you get your trk and are ready to work on it just give us a shout.
As forn the 60,000 miles service, what are you not sure about?
When you get your trk and are ready to work on it just give us a shout.
As forn the 60,000 miles service, what are you not sure about?
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Bolton, Ontario, Canada
RE: becoming a LR owner
I'm still shopping, as you probably know I have to deal with 'overexcitment' (always wanting it and finally deciding to buy it..) and try to pace myself and not to buy right away,
Thanks guys for staying with me and cooling me down a bit, my wife is helping me too and although we both ageed that it's not the most prudent choice (gas prices, house needs a new roof and other few 'urgent' project, two kids with their multitude of extracuricular activities etc.), we also agreed that one doesn't have to be always prudent..
As to my abilities to fixing a car, I have no doubts that I can do most of the repairs, my problems is that I have to master thevocabulary/lingo so you all will understant what I'm talking about.This, and Discoweb forums provides a wealth of info that I'm studying whenever I can.
Thanks again, I'll be keeping in touch.
As toABS question, it goes away, but it takes more time then it should. I just noticed that is still on after couple of minutes of ideling, but was of when driving. Will deal with that if I buy this very trk.
Thanks guys for staying with me and cooling me down a bit, my wife is helping me too and although we both ageed that it's not the most prudent choice (gas prices, house needs a new roof and other few 'urgent' project, two kids with their multitude of extracuricular activities etc.), we also agreed that one doesn't have to be always prudent..
As to my abilities to fixing a car, I have no doubts that I can do most of the repairs, my problems is that I have to master thevocabulary/lingo so you all will understant what I'm talking about.This, and Discoweb forums provides a wealth of info that I'm studying whenever I can.
Thanks again, I'll be keeping in touch.
As toABS question, it goes away, but it takes more time then it should. I just noticed that is still on after couple of minutes of ideling, but was of when driving. Will deal with that if I buy this very trk.