Well, you seem like you have a lot of spare time on your hands. Just keep insulting comments to yourself please, there is no need for an argument, the thread was intended for others opinions on good brake system combinations. We all have varying stand points.


Now to clear up confusion, drilled and slotted rotors are NOT for increased stopping power, brake pads are for stopping. Drilled and slotted rotors are for heat dispersion, and while I run my truck in the desert, and do not have lockers, I rely on the traction control in all cases while off road. So my brakes will get very hot off road and possibly become less efficient as I go along.


Thanks,
Dane.

 

Perfect, that would save me , at least, $9 a month on boots. If I wore boots. I am just using my little toe nail.... And that is a savings on pedis, so it's a wash

 

Dear earlyrover,
The fact is that any manufacturer in an effort to turn a profit does not put the highest quality products on their vehicles and if they do you end up spending copious amounts of money on the vehicle for that. (Higher end Porsche, AMG, BMW M Series etc...)
A lot of these aftermarket parts [and some OEM] parts and the technology therein trickles down from tried and true activities that push the limits of materials and components - hence the aftermarket worlds involvement.....

To say that stock or genuine OE Land Rover brake pads & rotors are as good as or better than an aftermarket set-up that incorporates more technology and higher quality materials resulting in a better end user experience is ridiculous.

What is more ridiculous is weighing in like a pompous - wherever you are from, it doesn't matter.... moron on something you haven't even tried.

There are people on this thread who have tried this set-up (EBC slotted and dimpled rotors and Akebono Pads) and had great experiences with this combo and have taken the time to share our good experiences with those who have asked.
From the looks of things [earlyrover] it doesn't appear anyone asked for you to saunter into this thread and drop negativity all over it.....

The simple fact that this combination [all said and done] happened to be almost $100.00 cheaper than the closest "Original" Land Rover offering from Atlantic British or Rovers North made it a viable test to see if the aftermarket could put together a dynamic solution to help our heavy beasts slow down faster and safer.
It's not as though we are trying to install 6 piston Brembos or full ceramic rotors on our 10+ year old trucks, we are looking for suitable replacements for what we have become tired of.

And I don't believe anyone is sensitive - just tired of people sticking their noses where they don't belong and wasting our time.
Oh and what exactly was the truth that you think you stuttered out?

Sent from an educated Canadian Middle Aged boy - so there....

 

I think the matter is becoming a tad acrimonious for no good or objective reasons. If those who wish to modify their trucks in search of improvement wish to, so be it, it's their choice and their money. Over many years I have yet to find significant improvements on the stock items on Landrovers other than small 'tweeks' here and there. An issue that is prevalent in europe is that many modify their vehicles outside the realms of safety and in so doing omit to inform their insurance company which results in invalidating their insurance as many 'improvements' are also classed as 'performance enhancing'. I also consider one factor, if I modify my vehicle with non stock parts whilst knowing most insurance companies try to wriggle out of paying up in the case of a serious accident, where will I stand and what will it cost me? Typically, if the braking system fails due to whatever reason and someone gets killed they, the insurers, will inspect every component modified and present a case for the failure due to such mods and hence not pay out, they have the money and top lawyers. Personally, I tend to stick to original parts or OEM for this reason as often the aftermarket kit has never been tested under all conditions in the same way the OEM kit has and very often has no type approvals. Interestingly, under the new legislation in europe, anyone can take their vehicle to an alternative, non main agent, garage during warranty without invalidating the warranty provided that the alternative garage follows the manufacturers servicing schedules and repair procedures and uses the original parts and spares. This comes under the 'block exemption' laws to break the stranglehold of the 'main stealerships'.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Block_E...Regulation_(EU)

 

Very interesting points OffroadFrance, the European insurance companies are so different to North American ones but many of the points you mention do make perfect sense.
I know for my insurance if your vehicle is totaled in an accident [and you have made modifications] so long as you can provide receipts or picture proof on the components they take that into consideration for the pay-out.

Many of the aftermarket manufacturers put their products through pretty extensive tests and for their intended use will undoubtedly carry the requisite liability insurance for products sold all over the world.
Interesting points you bring up for reasons to stay with an OE part - thanks for the insight!

 

__________________________

I wasn't the one to start attacking others, as you, or someone else did to me, so don't get your panties in a bundle. This is a forum for anyone to post; so if I am wasting your time, just ignore what I post. You are the one wasting everyone's time, with your juvenile snide remarks. Did you miss your anger management class this week? Have a nice day, my friend.

 

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Again, I agree with these points 100%; too bad that some of the guys who love to modify everything they get their hands on, can't stand to see anyone disagree with their stance, so must resort to name calling, snide boisterous attempts to cause other opinions to go away.

 

Don't get me wrong guys, I love modified machines in search of improvement and performance and spent the greater part of my non working life in search of horse power, handling and braking improvements on both motorbikes and cars. But my premise is always based upon mathematics and engineering coupled with testing for comparisons. Without experimentation and improvement we would be still using a horse and cart. What I never do is take others word or unqualified experiences as gospel unless it's backed up with hard irrefutable facts. The car mods industry must be the ad man's Nirvana everywhere and they sell 'pretty' and 'gimmicky' looking bolt on kit often making unsubstantiated extravagant claims and charging extortionate prices. Much of the kit sold is unfit for purpose and in many cases either damages the basics or under performs compared to the standard or stock equipment. Motorsport has taught me a lot about vehicle and bike performance and what is B/S and what is real. Typically BHP is god but it's no good if you can't put it down onto the road and then stop it for the hairpins etc. IMO perfect geometry and handling is actually god but horse power helps a bit. Braking, well, "who needs brakes they're for wussies" as my NZ pal would say.

 

I'm a little late to this party, but thought I'd throw in my two cents...

In the 80s and 90s, I raced, extensively. Porsche 911, 935, 964, in SCCA and IMSA. The 935s came from the factory with what *LOOKED* like drilled rotors, which is where all this drilled rotor nonsense started.

They weren't DRILLED. The holes were CAST into the blanks, which were then machined flat. The holes had fully chamferred edges as the machined plane of the disk didn't ever hit the "through" part of the hole.

This was a big deal. Why? If you just drill or slot the otherwise pristine flat surface of a machined rotor blank, you disrupt the crystalline structure of the steel and leave yourself wide open to heat risers and stress fractures and all sorts of other stuff you don't want to have happening to your brakes (particularly at 200MPH).

Talking the factory engineers at Porsche and Alfred Teves and Sachs about this extensively solidified my understanding, and I made damn sure that we were only using rotors with the holes cast into the blanks.

As a previous poster said, if you want to modify your rig to your taste, knock yourself out. If you've seen pictures and ads and read magazines and believe that your life won't be complete without rotors with holes in them because that's what you've seen, more power to you.

I just wanted you to know where they came from, and why what you're buying isn't what you think it is, and why it might be dangerous.

Same is true of teflon braided brake hoses as well, for other reasons. I'll save that for another time.

BTW, big thanks to all posters for their thoughts on pads - that's how I found this thread, finding myself in the market for replacements.

 

Good post RoveringAgain, very sensible approach. I've always trusted a few companies in brakes kit technology like AP and Brembo etc. I've gone very quick on circuit in my time but never quick enough for carbon/carbon brakes, I wish I had.