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That is how those Fords work. Btw, you can use a 99-2000 Mercury Cougar (same engine as Contour) for the housing, or buy the half sections new. The Chinese knock offs (four seasons brand) will work. The single outlet half can be bought angled or straight, depending on the need. The used ones, as seen, are angled. As stated, they used 192 thermostat.
He doesn't show how he handled the heater return and expansion tank hose?
I'll see if I can upload some photos of my layout, so far.
joe,
is that the set up off of discoweb? Did you get rid of your old set up and swap over?
Yes this is the 1 that I saw on Dweb titled "D2 stat mod 3.0"
I haven't messed with mine as the temps are pretty solid but this is very clever for someone who wishes to retain the stock warm-up/cabin heating capabilities but the stability of operating temp under different driving conditions. At least that's what he said, I'm paraphrasing. He said its very similar to the inline thermostat housing mod we are all familiar with BUT he states adamantly to trash the stock 192 deg tstat that comes with the housing and install a 180 & explains the mods necessary to make that replacement stat operate the way it needs to.
Okay some pictures of my change to a different thermostat and radiator. I am currently mounting the radiator and electric fan, so hoses are temporarily out waiting for radiator to get final location for fitment of hoses
Transition bypass hose 1 1/2" tee with dual temp sender
.
Radiator is a Griffin 45241, made in USA, all aluminum. Griffin is top notch, used by racers. It has three inches to spare both sides, so a slightly bigger radiator will fit. Thermostat will be attached to back of electric fan for support (has some heft to it, needs securing) about same location as factory thermostat. Bypass outlet (1 1/4") is attached to the transition hose, which is attached to the 3/4" brass tee. Other side of tee is about 8-9" of hose to metal heater return pipe. Tee connects to the nylon connector closest to water pump (active coolant running through engine, heater and bypass) and hotter than the coolant in expansion tank. Trying to keep temperature separation from fan temp sender (bypass coolant hotter than radiator outlet coolant). Dual temp sender is between nylon connector and radiator outlet.
The factory tee with bleeder is currently retained with a cap on the tee. May upgrade to metal tee and metal bleeder, later. A temp sensor added before thermostat to read temps from engine.
The upper coolant hose is retained, however, I am cutting it between the clips on the molded radiator cover. I am rotating (with union) the part that goes to the tee and pointing it downward through the factory hole in the factory cover (normally covered by hose and not seen) to connect to the thermostat housing outlet to radiator. There is some interference with factory routing near radiator inlet with the electric fan, but doable.
Radiator outlet Inlet Griffin radiator 45241 Ford thermostat bypass housing, temp sensor, replacement factory tee with bleeader with tee to be capped. Stat housing over Nylon connector from replacement hose, 3/4" tee added for heater return and bypass return, other connection for expansion tank hose. Nylon connector, other side.
Last edited by PalmettoDisco; 03-18-2017 at 08:36 PM.
Probably operator error, but I can't find a comprehensive write up on this, & I've seen several. There's 7 hoses total. I know what to do with the upper/lower radiator hoses, but what about the rest? And the "Y" pipe?
Okay some pictures of my change to a different thermostat and radiator. I am currently mounting the radiator and electric fan, so hoses are temporarily out waiting for radiator to get final location for fitment of hoses
Transition bypass hose 1 1/2" tee with dual temp sender
.
Radiator is a Griffin 45241, made in USA, all aluminum. Griffin is top notch, used by racers. It has three inches to spare both sides, so a slightly bigger radiator will fit. Thermostat will be attached to back of electric fan for support (has some heft to it, needs securing) about same location as factory thermostat. Bypass outlet (1 1/4") is attached to the transition hose, which is attached to the 3/4" brass tee. Other side of tee is about 8-9" of hose to metal heater return pipe. Tee connects to the nylon connector closest to water pump (active coolant running through engine, heater and bypass) and hotter than the coolant in expansion tank. Trying to keep temperature separation from fan temp sender (bypass coolant hotter than radiator outlet coolant). Dual temp sender is between nylon connector and radiator outlet.
The factory tee with bleeder is currently retained with a cap on the tee. May upgrade to metal tee and metal bleeder, later. A temp sensor added before thermostat to read temps from engine.
The upper coolant hose is retained, however, I am cutting it between the clips on the molded radiator cover. I am rotating (with union) the part that goes to the tee and pointing it downward through the factory hole in the factory cover (normally covered by hose and not seen) to connect to the thermostat housing outlet to radiator. There is some interference with factory routing near radiator inlet with the electric fan, but doable.
Radiator outlet Inlet Griffin radiator 45241 Ford thermostat bypass housing, temp sensor, replacement factory tee with bleeader with tee to be capped. Stat housing over Nylon connector from replacement hose, 3/4" tee added for heater return and bypass return, other connection for expansion tank hose. Nylon connector, other side.
You did order the 180* thermostat for the Ford Tstat housing, right? You can't use the stock assembly as you will still have the same 200+ coolant temp.
Probably operator error, but I can't find a comprehensive write up on this, & I've seen several. There's 7 hoses total. I know what to do with the upper/lower radiator hoses, but what about the rest? And the "Y" pipe?
read this one, got all the parts for it...still have the same questions.
Basically, that bottom Wye remains where it is with the heater hose & overflow tank return. You remove the LR thermostat and plug you radiator outlet into that spot. So now you have 1 big loop, traditional. Engine outlet/thermostat to radiator inlet, radiator outlet to water pump/engine inlet. The bypass & outboard thermostat housing has been deleted.
It works: my operating temp is a SOLID 183-185 with ambient temps up in the high 80s, low 90s. It will get a little higher when temps hit 100+
03-18-2017, 01:11 PM
