i don't know whether they are factory, but turner engineering uses them so that's good enough for me.

 

I don't think it's the gaskets fault for failing at 75-100k. Do you think Fel Pro gaskets will allow you to do 200k miles without an HG job?

It's the aluminum heads on aluminum block and overall design with the use of stretch bolts. If it were that simple, a better head gasket would have been designed long ago.

I have only heard one other forum member(besides you)state that Fel Pro are the best, but have never used them. I have spoken to professional engine builders who recommend Elring, so I have used those exclusively since.

 

I think SCOUTS was the 1 talking about FelPro & he mentioned to me having completed some 30+ Rover top end reworks. I'm not debating, it doesn't matter that much to me but sometimes I wonder if there is a magic combo of gasket/fastener/engine temp that actually would allow 200K miles on a rover V8. Most other passenger cars do...

I have read many a post where the 2nd and even 3rd round of cyl head gaskets have failed on somebody's Disco; which brand of gaskets were used is of importance but the factory bolts used in conjunction is probably a deal breaker regardless. I can't imagine replacing the cylinder head gaskets more than once on the same vehicle. Obviously you are aware that I had the VR cyl gaskets but the other times I had FelPro for intake manifolds and valve covers for other maintenance items & I was impressed with their product after using various other name brand manufacturers.

 

The first 2 jobs I did, I used Victor Reinz. Since then I have used Elring.

The second one I did has the most mileage that I am aware of @68k with stretch bolts.

I have yet to have a job fail prematurely. If people are eating up head gaskets, there is something else going on.

 

Roger that. I congratulate you on your HG replace well done, TTY bolts & all. I failed to consider poor workmanship & that equates to yet even another variable. All things considered, attention to detail, preparation, and good work ethics precludes everything else which isn't within ones own control.

Addressing the original poster: you will get 100s of opinions/ suggestions. Personally, I had 1 ongoing chat with Jason & another 1 with Abran to discuss all of my head gasket replacement questions & concerns as I went along. I would recommend contacting 1 of these experienced members so that you aren't overwhelmed with so much varying and/or conflicting feedback such as with posting openly on forums; it's just something to consider & Abran is particularly knowledgeable

 

Thank you very much for all the information!
I apologize for the delay on getting back, but I have been very ill lately.
So apparently based on normal consensus we should go with the Lucky 8 kit and ARP studs.
Now the million dollar question is labor cost. I never done a HG in my life, so not sure how realistic is to try it, in your opinion is it twice as complicated as the full tune up and the removal of the intake manifold?
Or should we just take somewhere? or may be there is a member around Tampa that will like to do it?
now wondering about the price range...

 

its a bit time consuming but most people have done it and you can too. If you come across any problems, we are all here to help. I've included a link to a guy that did one on a Range Rover with the same engine but it's all the same, u just don't need to remove the hood. Hope it helps out.
Engine Refresh (top end) | PaulP38A.com

 

Shop price range, all in ranges from $1500-$2500.

 

This video will give you an idea of the involvement.


It does take some dedication but there is so much info on the repair plastered all over the web that anybody who sets out to do it will be able to dig up enough resources to make a good repair. I picked a couple of guys that I trust & had ongoing text with them to get through it with minimal issues. There is just so much detail involved that you can't afford to make any mistakes if it's a daily driver.

 

x2 on that. It's pretty doable, just a whole bunch of steps involved. Get the relevant Rave pages, read Pauls P38 blog a few times, take your time, put everything in order, bag and label bolts and place them with their parts. Got mine done and running great and I'm a pretty shady shade tree wrencher. Nothing complex or complicated about it really. Being organized and taking my time were the keys to it.