Sorry to start another thread on this, but I am taking my Rover to dealer tomorrow and they will replace the lifter and shaft rods that hold them. have had two rover people tell that is what it is. The dealer tells me it wont make a difference.

Is there anything I can do or be able to help me identify the issue before they start changing anything? I.e. is there a way to see if there is a stuck lifter or a loose shaft holding the lifter? And what other issues could cause the ticking?

Mine doesnt tick until a few minutes after warming up and continues until I turn off the engine. It "disappears" when I hit the gas.

Someone said their ticking was from a bad bearing. How do I identify that?

 

here's this:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ticking+solved

There are also posts about stopping the tick by dealing with the SAI (please search for them)

And then there is the dreaded slipped liner, where overheat caused the cylinder liner to break loose and now it ticks as it slides up/down.

Long story short - dealer may be right

I always thought a sticking lifter was noisy at cold start and went away as temp and oil PSI increased.

 

I read the thread you posted but I wanted to eliminate the lifter first.

how do I tell if it is the lifter, or the shaft rod?

 

from another site Valve tappet noise or knocking when hot - Land Rover and Range Rover Forums

and a very complete post on the subject at

Update: My personal experience of tapping / cam / lifter / loose liner noise. - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

Lots of things can make a ticking noise, (oil pump, cylinder liner, lifters, cam wear, and more) none of them are cheap to fix usually, other than freeing a sticky lifter one with some sort of solvent introduced to the oil system. Before repairs, might try a product called Marvel Mystery Oil from the parts store, it goes in the oil. It is a light weight oil and can penetrate some very tight places. And oil flush and change. The Sea Foam product is also good to run in your oil, it is not a flush product.

From what you have told us so far, not convinced that mechanic could identify which lifter and push rod was in need of repair by external exam.

Also, if you are in Calif, lots of good indy Rover-capable shops, might be worth a second opinion.

 

Its probably the liners ticking up and down a small bit. Its no big deal they cant drop down too far because of the lip at bottom its just annoying listening to the noise. A shocking number of disco have this tick with no ill effects. The only real solution is putting in top hat liners. Also, a local independent shop told me he has fixed three ticking engines so far by removing the heads and taking a chisel and indenting in several spots around the top of the liner. This dent keeps the liner from being able to drop down the 1/10 an inch thereby eliminating the movement and noise. Really, its not a big deal I have never heard of a d2 engine failing from any other cause other then oil pump or severe overheating.

 

You are making a huge mistake, first go to the dealer and second having them replace the lifters without replacing the cam, what a screw up this is going to turn into.
If you can stop them, do so and then send me your number so I can walk you thru what needs to be done first.

 

Mike we did speak and I did all of what you first suggested with oil/filter change etc. left you a private message about it.

I am not doing the lifters, until I try some of the other things suggested here.

 

How do I get the liner fixed so I dont hear this noise?

 

What we are trying to tell you is that it may not be the liners. That's just one thing that can tick. Many dealers like to have the tick so they can sell you a complete new engine.

See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-repair-43960/, while it is not about the tick, it does include video of what's inside the typical 4.0 engine, you can see the camshaft and the lifters, etc., and see why replacing one without the other would be somewhat foolish.

You want to be sure it is liner(s) before you head down that path. That is big work, either by removing engine, having heads removed and top hat liners installed, or the process detailed by the above reference (not saying it won't work, but if it was just that simple I would expect a lot more posts about it world wide - especially since there are hundreds of posts about people doing their own head gaskets, and that would be a good time to secure the sleeves), and there is a pinning method that is done from the bottom side of the engine, have seen posts about it being done with oil pan off and engine still in truck for about $100.

BUT before you start down that slope, eliminating other tick-like noises would be a good idea.

 

I think you don't see post about this fixing the liners is that most people either deny the liners move or assume if they do they will drop and destroy the engine. Most people bring it in to the shop and are told they need a new engine. Also, the other half of folks blame it on the top end and end up replacing a ton of parts only to still have the tick. I just can't believe these top ends are worn out and junk by a 100k miles or less. Come on even a piece a crap Kia doesnt do that I think these motors are a touch stouter then that.