Better radiator... options?
#2
Hi.
Higher capacity... yes. Better than stock, I believe so. For very sure, it is not worse. Nothing plastic on it, wide gap tubes. Been six months running with zero leaks, problems nor overheating:
----> Left Mount Photo by Innernet | Photobucket
Higher capacity... yes. Better than stock, I believe so. For very sure, it is not worse. Nothing plastic on it, wide gap tubes. Been six months running with zero leaks, problems nor overheating:
----> Left Mount Photo by Innernet | Photobucket
Last edited by Externet; 12-07-2013 at 05:06 PM.
#5
#6
#8
Usually the desire for a new radiator is based on the original one which over the years of owners failing to follow the owner manual - renew coolant every two years. So the use of non-distilled water has grown calcium in the lower rows, 24/7, and if you have the Dexcool and it has even minor contamination there can be the evil Dexmud. Testing the radiator top to bottom with an IR thermometer can show the fins are more than 10F cooler on the bottom, indicating less flow down there.
A new Nissens radiator, fresh fan clutch, working electric fan, and real Land Rover 180F thermostat. One member sent in this photo of a ride into the desert. Of course, if you have a head gasket or cracked block issue things can be a lot different. Worn out water pump also lowers cooling.
I live in an area with warm temps in summer, and I do like that my electric fans are on all the time with a D1, vs the D2 control system. I suppose one could wire a relay to bypass that and keep fan on at will. I also installed a non-stock fan on our water pump, with deeper pitch. Came from a 2000 Blazer, same screw threads. https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...ghlight=Blazer More air flow thru radiator and cooler temps. 14-15 mpg in a D1 with AC on.
It gets pretty warm at Georgia Southern where my Disco lives during the week. Last week the college cafeteria had a special meal offering of Gator. To celebrate the Eagles victory over Florida.
A new Nissens radiator, fresh fan clutch, working electric fan, and real Land Rover 180F thermostat. One member sent in this photo of a ride into the desert. Of course, if you have a head gasket or cracked block issue things can be a lot different. Worn out water pump also lowers cooling.
I live in an area with warm temps in summer, and I do like that my electric fans are on all the time with a D1, vs the D2 control system. I suppose one could wire a relay to bypass that and keep fan on at will. I also installed a non-stock fan on our water pump, with deeper pitch. Came from a 2000 Blazer, same screw threads. https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...ghlight=Blazer More air flow thru radiator and cooler temps. 14-15 mpg in a D1 with AC on.
It gets pretty warm at Georgia Southern where my Disco lives during the week. Last week the college cafeteria had a special meal offering of Gator. To celebrate the Eagles victory over Florida.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 12-08-2013 at 03:18 PM.
#9
That's very interesting that the D1 electric fan is on all the time. I've been thinking of wiring my electric fan to be switchable so I can run it constantly during the summer. It seems like the truck struggles a lot more to stay cool when ambient temps get over 90, and I figure more airflow can only help.
Does the D1 fan shut off at higher speeds, or it literally never shuts off?
Does the D1 fan shut off at higher speeds, or it literally never shuts off?