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Bleed fuel line? After I had it apart?

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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 05:47 PM
  #1  
innzane's Avatar
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Mudding
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Default Bleed fuel line? After I had it apart?

HG job is done, still have the won't crank gremlin.
But when I jumper the coil in the fuse box to make it crank, it fires very easily but only runs for 2 seconds, and will only fire if key is turned off and back on before each attempt.
Seems like a fuel issue, so do I need to bleed the fuel lines after I had the top end apart?
Is it a basic bleed, use the valve on the drivers side rail, push it while turning ignition on/off.
Thanks again fellas, took a step in the right direction today, oh gawd it felt good.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 06:13 PM
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Bkreutz's Avatar
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Don't need to bleed the fuel system.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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Hello,
Congratulations on surviving an HG job.
Not for the faint of heart.

After my HG job, I just put that fuel line back on to the fuel ring with the snap plug.

Cranked it and it fired up after stumbling for a time.

I never took out the crank sensor bracket or the crank sensor on my 2001 Discovery II when I did the HG job.

Not sure how I avoided that.

Anyway,
If you have disturbed your crank sensor - I would simply go thru the Rave and put the crank sensor back on - pretending like you got a brand new one and get it all lined up.

Someone on here fussed with everything after an HG job for a week before they finally removed the crank sensor and put it back on according to the Rave.

And, then that D2 fired up and they drove off into the Sunset.

The crank sensor has to be spaced precisely.
Yours is probably a bit too far away and not generating the proper signals for the ECU to time onto.


I guess if you did not touch the bottom part of the diagram then all is good.

I also heard the plug is tricky to get back into the receiving plug on the harness.

Without the crank sensor properly fitted, the ECU will not realize the engine is turning.
When the engine is turning and the crank sensor is sending the pulses to the ECU, the ECU will then turn on the fuel pump and then you are good to go. It will start.

IF you get into a wreck and the engine stops, then the ECU turns off the fuel pump as a safety precaution.



Best to you.
J


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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 07:41 PM
  #4  
innzane's Avatar
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I never did touch the crank sensor.
Is the fuel pump loud enough to hear it run?
If the starter is cut out, maybe the fuel pump is also.
So guess I will get back on this gremlin.
Rebuild the xyz switch and go from there.
Thanks again for the info.
I will double check to make sure the crank sensor did not come unplugged.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 07:56 PM
  #5  
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I think you've got a BCU problem or IDM/fuse box issue. If the engine computer and body computer lose their security sync the car will start and then immediately die.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 12:02 AM
  #6  
innzane's Avatar
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NOOOOO! Not the BCU, i really hope. I want to keep this truck!

I did the thing where you leave the key on for 5 minutes to resync them.
Maybe I should try again since I probably had the battery loose since then.

Do any codes show on a cheapo reader if there is a sync issue?
Codes are P0705 and P1668, xyz switch, and security signal high.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 10:33 AM
  #7  
Disco Mike's Avatar
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No fuel, have you reset the inerita switch, that will shut off the fuel causing a no start.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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innzane's Avatar
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Mudding
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
No fuel, have you reset the inerita switch, that will shut off the fuel causing a no start.
I think I did, you just push on the top of it right?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 12:23 PM
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YUP.
Any fault codes showing?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 04:51 PM
  #10  
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Mudding
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P0705 (i think) the xyz switch
P1668 security signal high
I got the xyz out now, opened and tested, cleaned one contact.
Gonna plug it back in and try it click by click to see if it's my issue now.
 
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