I got a 25' roll the other day, a pack of the fittings and a female union.

For now (since my RR registration is dead as it's been for sale...) I need to get the DII back on the road ASAP. Pending an inspection of the rest of the lines I'll just hack off the rusted section, use the union and make a new piece to the caliper.

Just to clarify, the hose at the caliper where it joins the hardline uses the same M10x1.0 fitting right?

How hard is it to get to? Do I even want to know? Based on where the fluid is coming from.. I haven't even seen the line yet. How are they attached to the frame, and they are on the TOP of the frame right? I have the RAVE diagram but I can't tell.. fluid is maybe 12" ahead of the rear axle, above RR fender well/frame.

 

you have to just keep going back until you find a really good section of the old line.
if possible go back to the next connection or fitting with the new line.

 

I've seen some unions that are aluminum, make sure the ones you got aren't, they'll fail eventually. I found out the hard way many years ago on my Air Portable.

 

I don't have any tubing left over. I threw out the old tubing. I had to replace two lines that ran form the ABS modulator, one to the ft left wheel line and the other to one of the rear jump lines. I used pre-flared CuNi lines when I replaced these. At the same time I had to cut back one of lines that went from the jump line to the rear wheels to replace a fitting. The fitting was seized in the jump line. I cut the old flare off just behind the flare, took off the stripped fitting installed a new fitting and reflared the line.

The tool worked great due to the limited space with the line located on top of the frame rail.

 

What's the best way to cut the lines? I like the idea of going back to the nearest fitting but I'm almost positive it'll be seized up - I did get the good line wrench by the way.