blowing fuse everytime I place 03 Disco in park
#11
09-27-2022, 10:52 PM
Good question! I don't know. Will check that out in the next day or two. Usually when I replace a fuse I quickly shift out of park and forget about it. I do know that it always seems to be blown though
#12
09-30-2022, 06:18 PM
Drove some 150 mi city driving.
Placed in park twice today and was able to shift out. Third time blew the fuse.
However I noticed it would not shift down into low (1) and as I placed in park there was a ratcheting sound and feel
I think there is either or and debris and as JoshD suggested it is either the XYZ switch and/or associated wiring down underneath.
Have not wrestled with the stupid **** yet but I'll eat my Wheaties this weekend and try to talk nice to it while I pull it.
It gets a little crazier though. With the good fuse in the 21 slot (my ignition switch which has a history of not wanting let key come out although I have gotten very good at it. Although it does take a technique) Started acting up for the first time in a long time. Almost could not get it out .
With blown fuse in place it removes easily
Coincidence?
#13
09-30-2022, 09:46 PM
Fuse 21 controls the 4L/4H shift interlock and also the ignition key interlock. With the fuse blown, I’m assuming the ignition interlock can’t engage.
Also, when diagnosing anything it’s important to focus on one possible cause at a time, starting with the easiest thing to diagnose or fix. If you change multiple things at the same time it’s nearly impossible to isolate the problem.
Stepping back, I don’t think you have a problem with the XYZ switch as that isn’t run on Fuse 21. You can verify that by seeing if the little red light for PRNDL (next to the shift ****) stays lit when the fuse blows. That light originates with the XYZ switch signals so if the XYZ switch fails, those lights should go off.
You have a few options to test the transfer case interlock. The fastest, although not one I would necessarily recommend, is to cut the power wire to the solenoid. It’s connector C0588-15 (red with blue stripe) coming out of the back of the passenger fuse box. If you don’t have them already, do a google search for “Discovery 2 Electrical” and “discovery-ii-electrical-library”. The latter will give you a picture explaining how to find C0588 (just search for that text in the PDF). Cutting that wire will make it impossible to shift between 4L/4H so I’d keep it in 4H before trying. It’s a quick way to test the transfer case interlock but isn’t the “right” way (and requires you to reconnect the wire, of course).
You may also be able to reach the transfer case interlock from underneath the truck and unplug it (although I’m not sure you can reach up there). It’s connector C0683 (again, the second PDF will have a picture).
The most complete solution is to take apart your center console to access the shift interlock and transfer case interlock. Unplug those one at a time, testing in between, to see which one might be causing the short.
Also, when diagnosing anything it’s important to focus on one possible cause at a time, starting with the easiest thing to diagnose or fix. If you change multiple things at the same time it’s nearly impossible to isolate the problem.
Stepping back, I don’t think you have a problem with the XYZ switch as that isn’t run on Fuse 21. You can verify that by seeing if the little red light for PRNDL (next to the shift ****) stays lit when the fuse blows. That light originates with the XYZ switch signals so if the XYZ switch fails, those lights should go off.
You have a few options to test the transfer case interlock. The fastest, although not one I would necessarily recommend, is to cut the power wire to the solenoid. It’s connector C0588-15 (red with blue stripe) coming out of the back of the passenger fuse box. If you don’t have them already, do a google search for “Discovery 2 Electrical” and “discovery-ii-electrical-library”. The latter will give you a picture explaining how to find C0588 (just search for that text in the PDF). Cutting that wire will make it impossible to shift between 4L/4H so I’d keep it in 4H before trying. It’s a quick way to test the transfer case interlock but isn’t the “right” way (and requires you to reconnect the wire, of course).
You may also be able to reach the transfer case interlock from underneath the truck and unplug it (although I’m not sure you can reach up there). It’s connector C0683 (again, the second PDF will have a picture).
The most complete solution is to take apart your center console to access the shift interlock and transfer case interlock. Unplug those one at a time, testing in between, to see which one might be causing the short.
#14
10-01-2022, 09:55 AM
Fuse 21 controls the 4L/4H shift interlock and also the ignition key interlock. With the fuse blown, I’m assuming the ignition interlock can’t engage.
Also, when diagnosing anything it’s important to focus on one possible cause at a time, starting with the easiest thing to diagnose or fix. If you change multiple things at the same time it’s nearly impossible to isolate the problem.
Stepping back, I don’t think you have a problem with the XYZ switch as that isn’t run on Fuse 21. You can verify that by seeing if the little red light for PRNDL (next to the shift ****) stays lit when the fuse blows. That light originates with the XYZ switch signals so if the XYZ switch fails, those lights should go off.
You have a few options to test the transfer case interlock. The fastest, although not one I would necessarily recommend, is to cut the power wire to the solenoid. It’s connector C0588-15 (red with blue stripe) coming out of the back of the passenger fuse box. If you don’t have them already, do a google search for “Discovery 2 Electrical” and “discovery-ii-electrical-library”. The latter will give you a picture explaining how to find C0588 (just search for that text in the PDF). Cutting that wire will make it impossible to shift between 4L/4H so I’d keep it in 4H before trying. It’s a quick way to test the transfer case interlock but isn’t the “right” way (and requires you to reconnect the wire, of course).
You may also be able to reach the transfer case interlock from underneath the truck and unplug it (although I’m not sure you can reach up there). It’s connector C0683 (again, the second PDF will have a picture).
The most complete solution is to take apart your center console to access the shift interlock and transfer case interlock. Unplug those one at a time, testing in between, to see which one might be causing the short.
Also, when diagnosing anything it’s important to focus on one possible cause at a time, starting with the easiest thing to diagnose or fix. If you change multiple things at the same time it’s nearly impossible to isolate the problem.
Stepping back, I don’t think you have a problem with the XYZ switch as that isn’t run on Fuse 21. You can verify that by seeing if the little red light for PRNDL (next to the shift ****) stays lit when the fuse blows. That light originates with the XYZ switch signals so if the XYZ switch fails, those lights should go off.
You have a few options to test the transfer case interlock. The fastest, although not one I would necessarily recommend, is to cut the power wire to the solenoid. It’s connector C0588-15 (red with blue stripe) coming out of the back of the passenger fuse box. If you don’t have them already, do a google search for “Discovery 2 Electrical” and “discovery-ii-electrical-library”. The latter will give you a picture explaining how to find C0588 (just search for that text in the PDF). Cutting that wire will make it impossible to shift between 4L/4H so I’d keep it in 4H before trying. It’s a quick way to test the transfer case interlock but isn’t the “right” way (and requires you to reconnect the wire, of course).
You may also be able to reach the transfer case interlock from underneath the truck and unplug it (although I’m not sure you can reach up there). It’s connector C0683 (again, the second PDF will have a picture).
The most complete solution is to take apart your center console to access the shift interlock and transfer case interlock. Unplug those one at a time, testing in between, to see which one might be causing the short.
#15
10-01-2022, 10:03 AM
Thanks for the reply BoulderCharles
I've had a few attempts at removing the center console but the **** is very stubborn. Can only lift console a few inches with **** attached. My ignition key interlock was messed up since I bought it. Way before the fuse issue. In someways better this way with removing the key anyway.
I've had a few attempts at removing the center console but the **** is very stubborn. Can only lift console a few inches with **** attached. My ignition key interlock was messed up since I bought it. Way before the fuse issue. In someways better this way with removing the key anyway.
Last edited by Sdrows; 10-01-2022 at 11:20 AM. Reason: text
#16
10-01-2022, 04:19 PM
Fuse 21 controls the 4L/4H shift interlock and also the ignition key interlock. With the fuse blown, I’m assuming the ignition interlock can’t engage.
Also, when diagnosing anything it’s important to focus on one possible cause at a time, starting with the easiest thing to diagnose or fix. If you change multiple things at the same time it’s nearly impossible to isolate the problem.
Stepping back, I don’t think you have a problem with the XYZ switch as that isn’t run on Fuse 21. You can verify that by seeing if the little red light for PRNDL (next to the shift ****) stays lit when the fuse blows. That light originates with the XYZ switch signals so if the XYZ switch fails, those lights should go off.
You have a few options to test the transfer case interlock. The fastest, although not one I would necessarily recommend, is to cut the power wire to the solenoid. It’s connector C0588-15 (red with blue stripe) coming out of the back of the passenger fuse box. If you don’t have them already, do a google search for “Discovery 2 Electrical” and “discovery-ii-electrical-library”. The latter will give you a picture explaining how to find C0588 (just search for that text in the PDF). Cutting that wire will make it impossible to shift between 4L/4H so I’d keep it in 4H before trying. It’s a quick way to test the transfer case interlock but isn’t the “right” way (and requires you to reconnect the wire, of course).
You may also be able to reach the transfer case interlock from underneath the truck and unplug it (although I’m not sure you can reach up there). It’s connector C0683 (again, the second PDF will have a picture).
The most complete solution is to take apart your center console to access the shift interlock and transfer case interlock. Unplug those one at a time, testing in between, to see which one might be causing the short.
Also, when diagnosing anything it’s important to focus on one possible cause at a time, starting with the easiest thing to diagnose or fix. If you change multiple things at the same time it’s nearly impossible to isolate the problem.
Stepping back, I don’t think you have a problem with the XYZ switch as that isn’t run on Fuse 21. You can verify that by seeing if the little red light for PRNDL (next to the shift ****) stays lit when the fuse blows. That light originates with the XYZ switch signals so if the XYZ switch fails, those lights should go off.
You have a few options to test the transfer case interlock. The fastest, although not one I would necessarily recommend, is to cut the power wire to the solenoid. It’s connector C0588-15 (red with blue stripe) coming out of the back of the passenger fuse box. If you don’t have them already, do a google search for “Discovery 2 Electrical” and “discovery-ii-electrical-library”. The latter will give you a picture explaining how to find C0588 (just search for that text in the PDF). Cutting that wire will make it impossible to shift between 4L/4H so I’d keep it in 4H before trying. It’s a quick way to test the transfer case interlock but isn’t the “right” way (and requires you to reconnect the wire, of course).
You may also be able to reach the transfer case interlock from underneath the truck and unplug it (although I’m not sure you can reach up there). It’s connector C0683 (again, the second PDF will have a picture).
The most complete solution is to take apart your center console to access the shift interlock and transfer case interlock. Unplug those one at a time, testing in between, to see which one might be causing the short.
I guess the ignition switch will also go on my fix list
#17
10-18-2022, 06:00 PM
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dan Wallace
General Tech Help
2
07-30-2012 07:53 AM
nohopeboy
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
1
09-13-2009 10:58 PM
