So, like it says, my TEE broke. Fortunately, I caught it immediately, there was enough of a stub on the TEE to clamp the hose to, and enough coolant to get me to the parts store...

So, needing a fast fix, nearest Rover dealer is a 100+ miles away...and not liking that POS TEE anyways, I first made a temporary replacement out of some 1" schedule 80 PVC. Advice: DO NOT DO THAT! 2nd and successful fix a 1" black pipe TEE and 3- 3" nipples. cut off thew thread on one end of each of the nipples, drilled and threaded for a pitcock and the sending unit for my VDO coolant temp gauge. PIX to follow.
The PVC was rated for the heat and the chemistry, but not the hose clamps...also, it's coefficient of thermal expansion is giant...the brass fittings would leak when at operating temps... Also, thre hose clamps keep comoing "loose", what was really happening was the PVC nipp's kept shrinking...see pic...
The reason for the double clamps is no "hub" on the pipe nipples. Double clamps will hold fuel injection lines the same way...if ever in the position where one might have to get creative...

PS If you have that POS plastic factory TEE, I would advise carrying one of these black pipe Tees along with your lug wrench...

 

Kudo's for your ingenuity.
Can you get a stainless steel "T"?

That "T" is a liability for sure.

I would just put in a "T" form the HW store -
and screw in some stubby pipes in the three holes..

You don't need the bleeder screw.
You can bleed by raising the tank and running the engine for a time
with the coolant tank cap off.

 

really you can bleed by running the engine with the coolant cap off... are you nuts. This is a pressurized system. you bleed when cold. period.... hence the need for a bleed screw. I am sure you have had luck and maybe some others but this is not how it needs to be done. Sorry... as for the fix looks good I have been trying to get a machine shop to do one out of brass with the Bleed screw. Hopefully soon when they do finally get one done I will let all know to see who is interested and with a price range.

 

I found a Zinc coated wing bolt, instead of a petcock. I'm thinking this would give just as easy access to bleeding the system.

Will there be any issues using a zinc coated plug?

 

I think just the loose threads might be too small to do what you need. And may be a little hard to control with hot coolant. What happens to many is they stop bleeding at the first sign of a bubble, there will be more. One poster had added the ability to attach a clear plastic hose - vent that into a bucket until it runs steady....

 

Makes sense, I think i'll go this route.
NAPA AUTO PARTS

Will need to experiment if there is any hood clearance issues, but if it works, then I can easily attach a hose for easy burping.

 

Yeah to most of the posts...but, if you've ever (made the mistake...) of running up to operating temp, UN-bled and then opened the overflow tank...gets "interesting"...
A drain line on the pitcock valve is good. I've got a small ball valve & a 90Degree elbow for the final set-up, which will include a bleed line.
Oh, as for clearence issues, I started w/ a wad of green clay on top of the factory TEE and there was plenty of room.
One more thing, the iron TEE is a bit bigger and the coolant hoses don't fit the channel in the shroud exactly...one could cut 1/2" off the short side hose and that would handle it...but, then a stock TEE would never fit again...

 

Nice creative thinking!