Thanks fellas that is good advice. I would not be more than 2 inches body lift on top of the 3 inch suspension lift. I hadn't thought about the fuel line...


I am pretty close to ordering everything I initially need for the engine swap--especially after talking with DiscoMike last evening and diagnosing a small head gasket leak; last naul in the 4.0 coffin--and the body lift is going to be a must (with the only alternative being a custom oil pan). I am going with the 6.2 and a 700r4 transmission. The 6.2 will fit without much trouble but the turbo kit takes up extra headroom and I don't want to modify my hood.


May I ask where you got your kits, or did you buy the parts? I am positive that I can install one myself (and I have help, and tools, and no rusted bolts/nuts), but no use spending more than I should...


I'd already planned to add aftermarket bumpers (hence the MD springs) so I will deal with relocation/coverup when those are ready for installation.

 

I ordered the lift blocks on ebay. 8-1.25" blocks was maybe $40.00 and I bought longer bolts at the hardware store. The entire cost could'nt have been more than $70.00 and my time. with the 1.25" lift on my D2, I did not have to do anything with brakelines etc. The only thing I did was slightly extend the steering rod beside the enigne.
As I said early I have after market bumpers so that wasn't an issue. I did that almost 2 years ago and it's been fine.

It's actually wat better for working under your truck on things like t-case, exhaust, drive shafts etc.

 

I used the RTE body lift. The DAP kit is more complete but also more expensive. The RTE kit has everything that's mandatory. You will need to cut and weld the steering shaft, not a big deal. I posted on some Rover forum how I did mine.

 

Found the thread Rovertym Body lift install

 

Very helpful. Thank you.

 

would like to know more about your 1 inch body lift