Hi everybody. Just did the infamous "Option B" fix to relieve myself of the amigos. Had all intentions of doing it without removing the entire modulator, and then gave up after about 2 hours.

So I removed the modulator and had to bleed the brakes. I bled the right rear and front. However, I had to skip the left rear in between because, I could not get the bleeder screw to move. In hindsight, I probably yanked on it too hard, because I stripped the screw a bit.

I'm cautiously optimistic that I'll be able to remove the screw eventually. However, I have no intentions of putting it back in. As such, I'm trying to track down replacement bleeder screws, and can't find any that fit Disco 2s from 2000 onward. Whenever I search for the part, I get plenty that fit '99 Discos, but nothing for 2000 on.

So:

1. Is this just a goof with the parts databases? Will a 1999 brake bleeder screw fit a 2003 Disco?
2. If not, could someone direct me to that part.
3. In the same vein, where can I pick up some fresh caps for the screws?

Thanks in advance

 

I believe the calipers are the same on all the D2's. They are listed for 1999-2004. You can also pull the bleeder off the other side and see if you can get a replacement at a parts store from the HELP or Doorman parts lines. Those are the carded hardware packs they have for assorted random stuff like hinge pins, starter bolts, etc. They have caps as well. Another cap option is rubber vacuum caps. They work fine.


One tip for the bleeders - I have wrapped my threads in Teflon tape. I used it initially to seal up the thread so I could use my vacuum bleeder but found that it keeps the threads from seizing up. The brake fluid isn't able to wash it away like it does with never seize.

 

You: " I could not get the bleeder screw to move. In hindsight, I probably yanked on it too hard, because I stripped the screw a bit."
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I would be more concerned that you stripped the screw hole in caliper, at least enough so that it won't seal properly, allowing air to leak in beyond whatever is left of threads.
Take the stripped screw in to auto parts shop, such as NAPA, and tell him you want another like it---it has metric threads, of course, and isn't anything special from Rover, but readily available . Worked for me!

 

Thanks for the tips, fellas. The brakes are spongy, but they work, so it's not an emergency. My plan is to let it ride until I get to a better work area and try extracting the screw with some help from a torch and some penetrating oil.

Thanks again for the tips.

 

You: " I bled the right rear and front. When I went to do left rear"
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The correct bleeding procedure, is to bleed the right rear first, as you did, next the left rear, then the right front; finally the left front. After that, WABCO, the manufacturer of the modulator says that you have to bleed the modulator, electronically, to rid the modulator of the trapped air in the modulator (I did mine, electronically, with the Hawkeye scanner, which has this bleed sequence on its options list, and it worked beautifully). After that, the WABCO site says that you have to go back now, and do the caliper bleeding again, right rear, left rear, right front, left front. That is what I did, and bingo, no spongy brakes; good firm brakes, better than ever! I suggest you do this. I am not blowing smoke under your dress, read the correct bleeding procedure online at WABCO website.

 

Technically, according to the RAVE manual, the correct procedure is reverse from conventional wisdom. That is, the manual tells you to start at the front and work back.

Having said that, I'm adhering to conventional wisdom with the assistance of a pressure bleeder. Sorry if I wasn't clear in my OP, but I did the bleed per conventional wisdom (starting rear right). However, when I went to rear left, I couldn't get that bleeder screw out. So I moved on and finished the bleed, and that got me pretty decent brakes. I'm headed to my shop in a couple days, and I'll do the full, correct bleed then.

Also, I picked up some bleeder screws for a 1999 Disco. I'm hoping that when I get the stripped bleeder screw out (fingers crossed) I'm hoping one of these will fit.

 

Just a follow up on this. Was able to get the car up on stands yesterday. The night before, I hit it with some blaster. Before taking a shot at it, I gave the screw a few taps with my hammer, as well. Using an 11mm socket, I was able to get the screw all the way out.

Unfortunately, the screw I picked up from the auto store (I tried the 99 Disco ones) were way too big.

All the same, the screw came out easy enough that I think it's got some more life in it. I put some Anti Seize on the threads before replacing the screw.

One final thought. A lot of tutorials will tell you that the brake bleeder screw for a Disco 2 is 7/16. Although a 7/16 will work, it is technically a little too big. So, if you want to minimize the chance of rounding a brake bleeder screw, use 11mm. The difference is small:

11mm is .4330 inches, and 7/16 is .4375 inches

However, every little bit counts, right?

 

Which Hawkeye scanner device did you use to do the electronic bleed? Is it the unit in the BA 5070 Kit?

http://www.dap-inc.com/hawkeye/

Do you have the link to the WABCO bleeding instructions?

 

Hey Rover_Hokie. I ended up doing a simple gravity bleed. I'm going to do a pressure bleed once I finish making my pressure bleeding cap today. (I bought an old one off of eBay, and I'm in the process of attaching a fitting and sealing it up so I can do a pressure bleed.)

As I said in my other thread (https://landroverforums.com/forum/ne...sco-se7-63787/) I ended up going with an Autel 619 because it could diagnose the Amigos, function as a regular OBD scanner, and work on loads of other vehicles. Perhaps I'll get the Hawkeye in the future, but I just can't justify the price at this juncture.

I'm also going to look into using the abs modulator to do the bleed. Might make that a project for today, as it's still unclear whether the pressure bleed cap will work out!

 

despite what LR say bleed from the farthest point too the closet point