Brake fluid/front u-joints
Hey all,
Am new to this forum as well as the LR experience, am trying to get as much knowledge as I can in anticipation of things to come.!? From what I have read it is best to change the brake fluid (purge the system?), why is that required (this will be the first vehicle i have owned that this appears mandatory) I'm guessing the sensors are "look thro". Sorry, 04 Disco II is my latest purchase, the 60,000 was done prior to my receiving it, I believe I'm looking forward to the 67,500 as the next pm (preventative maintenance) barring nothing happens till then. Also, I've been off road in many different set ups and am fairly mechanical, are the front u-joints glued in as well clipped or is this a straight forward change and are all the lobes the same - as long as i reinstall it pointing in the right direction do the lobes have to line up (where they were when removed)? Thanks in advance for your time
Robert
Am new to this forum as well as the LR experience, am trying to get as much knowledge as I can in anticipation of things to come.!? From what I have read it is best to change the brake fluid (purge the system?), why is that required (this will be the first vehicle i have owned that this appears mandatory) I'm guessing the sensors are "look thro". Sorry, 04 Disco II is my latest purchase, the 60,000 was done prior to my receiving it, I believe I'm looking forward to the 67,500 as the next pm (preventative maintenance) barring nothing happens till then. Also, I've been off road in many different set ups and am fairly mechanical, are the front u-joints glued in as well clipped or is this a straight forward change and are all the lobes the same - as long as i reinstall it pointing in the right direction do the lobes have to line up (where they were when removed)? Thanks in advance for your time
Robert
Do you have the paper work showing exactly what was done on the 60K? Many dealers don't do all that is needed.
As for the u-joints, crawl under the front of your truck with a flash light, see if the 2 u-joints in the double cardon housing that attaches to the t/case have grease fittings, if not plan on having the drive shaft rebuilt ASAP cause it will fail and it can take the tranny with it.
As for the u-joints, crawl under the front of your truck with a flash light, see if the 2 u-joints in the double cardon housing that attaches to the t/case have grease fittings, if not plan on having the drive shaft rebuilt ASAP cause it will fail and it can take the tranny with it.
Mike,
Thanks for the response, I'll ask them to send me (a copy) of what they did for the 60k. Is there a links that lists out what should be done? I'll look for the grease fittings.
Thanks
Robert
Thanks for the response, I'll ask them to send me (a copy) of what they did for the 60k. Is there a links that lists out what should be done? I'll look for the grease fittings.
Thanks
Robert
Here you go,
This is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service or a high mileage used truck, the way I do it.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301
1 Air filter
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platium Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat
Hoses and belts, as necessary
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
Mike
This is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service or a high mileage used truck, the way I do it.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301
1 Air filter
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platium Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat
Hoses and belts, as necessary
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
Mike
Mike,
Again thanks - thank you for taking the time to post the list. The dealer is sending me the paperwork for the 60k they did. Thanks again.
Robert
Again thanks - thank you for taking the time to post the list. The dealer is sending me the paperwork for the 60k they did. Thanks again.
Robert
The brake fluid should be flushed every two years on any car. Because it gets so hot it wears out and yoyu loose stopping power. It also absourbs moisture and gets contaminated with water and can cause problems with your ABS modulator.
Even though Land Rover recommends 7,500 mile PM's dont wait that long. Do them every 3,000 miles if you are using dino oil and every 5,000 if you are using full synthetic.
And make sure that you are using premium gas.
Even though Land Rover recommends 7,500 mile PM's dont wait that long. Do them every 3,000 miles if you are using dino oil and every 5,000 if you are using full synthetic.
And make sure that you are using premium gas.
Spike555,
Thank you for the additional information. I was curious about why the "change" of fluids is stressed as much as it is. I understand the answer. A little background... I am coming up from a pretty capable but lesser brand 4X4 (Jeep). It has been (mostly) pretty inexpensive to maintain and usually went like this...are the keys in it?....sign here come back in 3k! Nothing was ignored and I did most of it myself however, I had never seen the changing of fluids stressed the way it is with LR's. Thank you for your time!
Robert
Thank you for the additional information. I was curious about why the "change" of fluids is stressed as much as it is. I understand the answer. A little background... I am coming up from a pretty capable but lesser brand 4X4 (Jeep). It has been (mostly) pretty inexpensive to maintain and usually went like this...are the keys in it?....sign here come back in 3k! Nothing was ignored and I did most of it myself however, I had never seen the changing of fluids stressed the way it is with LR's. Thank you for your time!
Robert
Rover have this stigma of being troublesome and expensive to own, I think that 90% of that is because they dont follow the recommended service intervals and use the wrong gas and oil, etc.
Take care of your truck and it will take care of you.
Take care of your truck and it will take care of you.
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