Hey guys, My 95 needs new rotors as well as pads. I have a user manual but I would like to here it form people who have done the work. How hard is it to put new rotors on? Also what is everything I would need to replace the rotors?

Also I have clicking in both my CV joints. I was told they were going bad. Is that true? If so again how hard is it to do this job and what all does this entail me to do and what parts do i need so I dont get started and run into a problem. Any help would be great. Thanks!

 

I'd suggest first you download the free "RAVE CD"
It's the complete shop manual on cd -do a search for it.

Then read the heck out of it regarding brakes - if you're not an accomplished mechanic,
rotors & cv joints on a DI will turn you into a raving lunatic.

I can't type so I'll leave it at that - Anyone else?

luck,greg

 

2x on reading the manual first, these things are built like tanks, so you'll likely need some heavy artillery to get it apart....let us know how it goes.

 

I would have some new grease seals ready to install. You will have to pull the axles on the rear to get the rotors off. Re-pack all of the wheel bearings and inspect them well. Might have a bearing on its way out. I would change the diff fluid out while you have it up. This is not a 1 hour project. The brakes are a little time consuming. You will have to pull the drive flange, take off the wheel bearings and hubs, put the hubs back in a rim to break the rotors, clean, re-grease and re-assemble everything. Torque to specs and use thread lock everywhere it calls for it. That is just brakes

Have you ever lubed your CV's?

 

Read the shop manual, but in simple terms

Remove the caliper (hang it out of the way with stiff wire) (13mm 12pt socket) On refit use Loctite 270
Remove the drive flange (17mm socket) On refit use Loctite 270
Remove the hub nut (52mm)
Pull the hub off
If you have an impact wrench use a 13mm (I think) 12pt socket. If no impact, do as others suggest and stick the hub in a wheel and have at it. On refit use Loctite 270
remove the stub axle (17mm bolts I think)
Pull the half shaft
Clean and inspect the hub bearings, but be careful not to mix innner and outer. While they are the same PN, you don't want to mix and match used cones and cups.
You'll need to repack them well or pack the new ones.
Clean and fit the new gaskets and seals on re-fitment.
Don't forget to clean the old grease from the swivel housing and add new.

You'll need
stub axle to swivel housing gasket
hub oil seal (RTC3511)
drive flange gasket.
You might want to have a set of hub bearings on hand just in case. They are only a few quid. They are a common bearing, Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38.
You will need some loctite 270 for assorted bolts.
Hube bearing grease.
Swivel housing grease.
I'd get a couple extra hub nut lock washers in case you mess them up.

The RTC3511 seal get's recessed 4mm.


The front drive flange works well to recess it evenly, but don't go too far.

 

thanks everyone,
okdiscoguy, no i have never lubed my Cv joints...i did read that in a forum about someone doing that. So i will check. I havnt began on the brakes and stuff yet because right now its to cold, plus I am getting all the parts I need. If anyone else has any advice or what not I am always open to help.

 

LR originally used oil in the swivel ***** and now they have a thicker combination. Get some and add it. There are little fill plugs on the tops of them. Easy to do.

 

A thought on the CV's...
I bought some used axle shafts with the CV's on them that were in great shape for just over $100 for the pair. It certainly shortened the job considerably. I have rebuilt CV's in the past, but this was just too easy to pass up.
I bought from a reputable breaker though. YMMV.