Brake issue -- Need help
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
I replaced that same dookickey a while back and I have some advice for you.
1) you will have to drive the old piece out. The best way to do that is with a long socket extension. Take off the intake tube and use vise grips to clamp the throttle fully open. Use the long extension and a hammer to drive out the old connector from the inside.
2) Use some grease on the outside of the new connector and the hole in the intake where it goes to help the new connector go in without breaking.
3) The new connector should also come with a small 1 inch plastic vac tube inside the connector. Leave that 1 inch plastic piece in while you tap it in with a hammer. That piece should prevent the actual connector from being damaged by the hammer because you are hitting it instead of the connector. After the connector is fully installed you simply take that small vac piece out and install the normal brake servo vac line in it's place.
1) you will have to drive the old piece out. The best way to do that is with a long socket extension. Take off the intake tube and use vise grips to clamp the throttle fully open. Use the long extension and a hammer to drive out the old connector from the inside.
2) Use some grease on the outside of the new connector and the hole in the intake where it goes to help the new connector go in without breaking.
3) The new connector should also come with a small 1 inch plastic vac tube inside the connector. Leave that 1 inch plastic piece in while you tap it in with a hammer. That piece should prevent the actual connector from being damaged by the hammer because you are hitting it instead of the connector. After the connector is fully installed you simply take that small vac piece out and install the normal brake servo vac line in it's place.
That is SUPER helpful. Thank you. AB shipped it today so I should have it this weekend.
Thread Starter
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
Ace Hardware, or any local hardware store, sell all the brass fitting necessary as well as the taps. 3/8" NPT, 1/4" NPT, and 1/8" NPT taps and fittings are all pretty easily sourced. If I remember right, I believe 3/8" NPT is the size, and doesn't even require drilling the intake first. But double check that size...could be misremembering.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
Thread Starter
|
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
I replaced that same dookickey a while back and I have some advice for you.
1) you will have to drive the old piece out. The best way to do that is with a long socket extension. Take off the intake tube and use vise grips to clamp the throttle fully open. Use the long extension and a hammer to drive out the old connector from the inside.
2) Use some grease on the outside of the new connector and the hole in the intake where it goes to help the new connector go in without breaking.
3) The new connector should also come with a small 1 inch plastic vac tube inside the connector. Leave that 1 inch plastic piece in while you tap it in with a hammer. That piece should prevent the actual connector from being damaged by the hammer because you are hitting it instead of the connector. After the connector is fully installed you simply take that small vac piece out and install the normal brake servo vac line in it's place.
1) you will have to drive the old piece out. The best way to do that is with a long socket extension. Take off the intake tube and use vise grips to clamp the throttle fully open. Use the long extension and a hammer to drive out the old connector from the inside.
2) Use some grease on the outside of the new connector and the hole in the intake where it goes to help the new connector go in without breaking.
3) The new connector should also come with a small 1 inch plastic vac tube inside the connector. Leave that 1 inch plastic piece in while you tap it in with a hammer. That piece should prevent the actual connector from being damaged by the hammer because you are hitting it instead of the connector. After the connector is fully installed you simply take that small vac piece out and install the normal brake servo vac line in it's place.
Edit: got it done. I reset my codes and will drive some today. Took about 20 minutes including finding tools. Again, thanks for the great instructions!
Last edited by Charlie_V; Sep 20, 2014 at 10:34 AM.
Thread Starter
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
Good news and bad news. The good news is that the new fitting fixed a couple of issues, the most relevant being that my brakes instantly recover. The irrelevant is that my service engine light went we away (meaning that my rear o2 sensors are miraculously healed).
The bad news is that I still have very poor braking. I jog every day and have pretty strong legs, and I have to use all I have to really stop quick. My wife can't do it.
I should add: I'm not being super picky here about the brakes. I haven't felt my antilocks kick in for years. Even with testing. I cannot physically lock up my brakes or induce antilocks.
I noticed that the whoosh when I hit the brake pedal (and it travels about 2 inches before any braking occurs) is really loud.
On to the next thing...
And what is the next thing? Any suggestions?
The bad news is that I still have very poor braking. I jog every day and have pretty strong legs, and I have to use all I have to really stop quick. My wife can't do it.
I should add: I'm not being super picky here about the brakes. I haven't felt my antilocks kick in for years. Even with testing. I cannot physically lock up my brakes or induce antilocks.
I noticed that the whoosh when I hit the brake pedal (and it travels about 2 inches before any braking occurs) is really loud.
On to the next thing...
And what is the next thing? Any suggestions?
Last edited by Charlie_V; Sep 20, 2014 at 11:12 AM.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,064
Likes: 16
From: San Antonio,Tx
When was the last time you did a good bleeding on the brakes and replaced pads? If you have a computer to bleed the brakes it will be much faster. If not then get a helper and set aside an hour to do a good flush the old fashioned way. My wife and I opened and closed the bleeder about 20 times on each wheel, stopping every 10 times to top up the reservoir.
I've been told that the only true way to properly bleed the brakes on a D2 is with a computer so I might try that some day to see if it really does make a big difference.
I've been told that the only true way to properly bleed the brakes on a D2 is with a computer so I might try that some day to see if it really does make a big difference.
Last edited by Jared9220; Sep 20, 2014 at 12:58 PM.
Thread Starter
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
When was the last time you did a good bleeding on the brakes and replaced pads? If you have a computer to bleed the brakes it will be much faster. If not then get a helper and set aside an hour to do a good flush the old fashioned way. My wife and I opened and closed the bleeder about 20 times on each wheel, stopping every 10 times to top up the reservoir.
I've been told that the only true way to properly bleed the brakes on a D2 is with a computer so I might try that some day to see if it really does make a big difference.
I've been told that the only true way to properly bleed the brakes on a D2 is with a computer so I might try that some day to see if it really does make a big difference.
Could I have a master cylinder problem? I will confess I don't understand what a master cylinder does or what can go wrong with it, but I have seen them mentioned a few times.
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