I need to know what type of signs I should look for, to determine if my Brake Master Cylinder **** the bed. And how to prolong the life of the MC under "extreme circumstances"... A brief introduction into the situation at hand:

Vehicle is my recently acquired 2004 DII SE with 130K. Front pads are BEYOND SHOT! Brakes would grind when I came to a complete stop or whenever I drove at low speeds (up to 25 MPH) and especially when I put the truck in reverse. I think the front passenger side pad was so thin that somehow it made the caliper stick and cause the grinding. The front passenger side rotor also has several deep scratches in it and gets really hot after a short 15 minute drive. Other day I had to slam the brake pedal to the floor and shortly there after most of the brake fluid burst out the front passenger side. I have refilled the brake master cylinder twice this week so far and twice the MC was nearly empty.

Yes I know I should not be driving the truck and yes I already purchased a Brake rebuild kit from Atlantic British (all new pads and rotors). But Im saving up to get both front calipers replaced and it will take another 2 weeks or so before I can afford them. In the mean time I plan of refilling the MC and using a combination of low speeds, e-brake and low gears for braking.

So back to my question, should I hold off on installing the new rotors pads and front calipers and buy a new MC as well? Or is there still hope for it? Ive heard that if the MC runs empty that its junk... right now thats my biggest concern. If I have to replace the MC then it wont be for another 3.5 weeks - without any brakes.

PS: Ive owned 5 vehicles in my life:
97 Mercury Grand Marguis
94 Jeep Grand Cherokee
98 Discovery 1
99 Saab9-5
04 Discovery II
and EVERY ONE OF THEM at one point had a serious brake failure problems! This is the third time between 3 of those vehicles that Ive had to drive to and from work without brakes! I swear I am cursed with bad brake karma! Good grief - funny how the snow decided to hit us now!

 

Most likely other things go first, like sticking caliper (vs something making it stick), and swollen or burst brake lines. Fix the leaking / sticking caliper, even if you have to use junkyard parts (more affordable). If the MC is leaking (you can't find another source of the leak); you certainly are placing yourself and others at risk driving the truck. Nothing would prevent you from topping it off several times a day.

 

Thanks Buzz
I think I'm gonna just buy both front calipers and the brake master cylinder from Atlantic British. Everything for $500 plus shipping, if all goes well Ill order then in 2 weeks or less. Haven't had the Rover a month and Im already reaching my first $800 just in brake parts! ....... Brakes better be tight as hell once I get everything installed or else!!!!!!

 

Typically, when brake pads are allowed to get too thin they transfer too much heat to the calipers and help them sieze up. Plus, with the piston way out it may be working in an area of the bore that has been exposed to contaminants from a leaky boot and has become pitted and prone to stick.

Replacing pads before they get to that point is imparative. Even if it means slapping a set of cheap pads on the old rotors until you can get the parts to do it right. A week or so of crappy brakes is way better than no brakes.

 

Good tip man. Pads were like that when I drove the truck off the sellers property. Purchased a complete brake rebuild kit (all new rotors/pads). Before the parts arrived the front passenger caliper died and the rotor with it. So gotta wait until i get 2 new calipers and MC just to be on the safe side.