Brake Pads advice needed
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 57
From: Queens, NYC
Thanks for the tip on where to get the best deal on the Akebono pads! Just purchased front and rear ceramic pads for $122 shipped! I think ill hold off on on the complete rebuild and suffice with pads for now. If once installed the brakes are still in need of service Ill get the performance rotors.
Mike my Disco has 130K. I'm not sure how old the rotors are, all I know is that the brakes were serviced within the last few years (as according to documents) but I have no idea which components were serviced exactly.
I purchased a Land Rover workshop manual rave CD from ebay a while back and just tried opening up the rave files on the disk but its not working.... think I got ripped off. Does anyone have a complete download link for the D2 Rave that I can have?
Mike my Disco has 130K. I'm not sure how old the rotors are, all I know is that the brakes were serviced within the last few years (as according to documents) but I have no idea which components were serviced exactly.
I purchased a Land Rover workshop manual rave CD from ebay a while back and just tried opening up the rave files on the disk but its not working.... think I got ripped off. Does anyone have a complete download link for the D2 Rave that I can have?
The transfer film between some compounds are not compatible at all (ceramic and carbon metallic spring to mind), and mixing them up (for instance, by installing ceramic pads on a rotor that just had carbon metallic pads and wasn't resurfaced) can have disastrous results.
Rave download here (590MB):
http://www.landroverresource.com/rave.zip
Winching
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 688
Likes: 5
From: Mississippi
I always do my pads a rotors together because the rotors can warp and what not so just doing pads to me is a waste of money and time. Taking the rotor off is easier than the pads in my opinion. Why do it twice when for a few bucks more you can do it once. You can download the Rave off of Mikes sticky or SavannahBuzz.
Thread Starter
|
TReK
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,167
Likes: 87
I always do my pads a rotors together because the rotors can warp and what not so just doing pads to me is a waste of money and time. Taking the rotor off is easier than the pads in my opinion. Why do it twice when for a few bucks more you can do it once. You can download the Rave off of Mikes sticky or SavannahBuzz.
Where's the cheapest place to order EBC rotors then? I would prefer to replace the pads and rotors together, but I have a tight budget the next 3 weeks. Still have to register/inspect and insure the vehicle, diagnose check engine light and buy 2 o2 sensors, replace 1 rear brake light bulb and get the wheels aligned with the steering wheel... I could try and squeeze in the rotors this coming week but not at the asking price on Atlantic British! I'm leaning away from buying cheap or standard rotors.... I'm already getting performance pads then might as well go with performance rotors to, and at the moment I hear slight metal to metal grinding in the wheels... so gotta get something. The pads are on their way though so i should get them in afew days.
Last edited by TRIARII; Nov 13, 2012 at 12:54 AM.
4wd Low
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I recently replaced pads and rotors on all four wheels on my 02, since I work at an Oreilly I bought stuff through there for my discount. Used basic brakebest rotors and wagner thermoquiet pads. They work alright, much better than what I had before, bud still throw the three amigos at least once a week. Could have gone better quality but didnt want to special order the parts and wait for them when my brakes were barely there.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 107
From: Denver, Colorado
Where's the cheapest place to order EBC rotors then? I would prefer to replace the pads and rotors together, but I have a tight budget the next 3 weeks. Still have to register/inspect and insure the vehicle, diagnose check engine light and buy 2 o2 sensors, replace 1 rear brake light bulb and get the wheels aligned with the steering wheel... I could try and squeeze in the rotors this coming week but not at the asking price on Atlantic British! I'm leaning away from buying cheap or standard rotors.... I'm already getting performance pads then might as well go with performance rotors to, and at the moment I hear slight metal to metal grinding in the wheels... so gotta get something. The pads are on their way though so i should get them in afew days.
Also if you are wanting to replace your rotors, consider buy the slotted and drilled, not dimpled, rotors from BPoU, they will because the are drilled, allow your brakes to stop faster. The ones they are offering are from the UK and are not made in China as so many of the knock off rotors are.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 57
From: Queens, NYC
Skip the EBC rotors for now if you're on a budget, and just get the cheapest solid rotors you can find.
If you're dead set on the EBC rotors:
PartsGeek:
04 2004 Land Rover Discovery Brake Rotor - Brake - Beck Arnley, Brembo, Brembo Coated, EBC, PBR, Pilenga, Pronto, Front, Rear - PartsGeek
Pricing is per pair for the EBC rotors, but it looks like they're out of stock on the fronts.
I can't believe AB is asking that much of a premium on those rotors, that's shameful.
If you're dead set on the EBC rotors:
PartsGeek:
04 2004 Land Rover Discovery Brake Rotor - Brake - Beck Arnley, Brembo, Brembo Coated, EBC, PBR, Pilenga, Pronto, Front, Rear - PartsGeek
Pricing is per pair for the EBC rotors, but it looks like they're out of stock on the fronts.
I can't believe AB is asking that much of a premium on those rotors, that's shameful.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 57
From: Queens, NYC
Just wanted to follow up on your statement regarding dust cover, don't use them they cut air flow to the rotors and run hotter.
Also if you are wanting to replace your rotors, consider buy the slotted and drilled, not dimpled, rotors from BPoU, they will because the are drilled, allow your brakes to stop faster. The ones they are offering are from the UK and are not made in China as so many of the knock off rotors are.
Also if you are wanting to replace your rotors, consider buy the slotted and drilled, not dimpled, rotors from BPoU, they will because the are drilled, allow your brakes to stop faster. The ones they are offering are from the UK and are not made in China as so many of the knock off rotors are.
The attached PDF talks about this somewhat, but you're free to search on your own for info as well.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 107
From: Denver, Colorado
This is your experience with them if not first hand but I currently have a set of DBS's with nearly 110,000 miles on them and no cracks, they still stop quicker then factory style rotors. My feeling is, if they are fragile, why do most high end manufactures like Mercede, Porche, BWM and the like run them.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 57
From: Queens, NYC
Can't speak to BMW and MB about their rotors, but if they're making theirs like Porsche does, the rotors are cast with the holes in them.
From a Porsche forum:
I can attest to the spidering on solid rotors, every set I've had on my SHO has them after a few track days.
*edit*
Yes, I've seen drilled rotors crack first hand. I watched a guy have his cross drilled Wilwood rotors explode while braking from 120MPH into a 90º turn at Gingerman Raceway. I'm pretty sure I heard him scream code brown from the paddock where I was standing.
From a Porsche forum:
1) The holes are cast in giving a dense boundary layer-type crystalline grain structure around the hole at the microscopic level as opposed to drilling which cuts holes in the existing grain pattern leaving open endgrains, etc, just begging for cracks.
2) The holes are only 1/2 the diameter of the holes in most drilled rotors. This reduces the stress concentration factor due to hole interaction which is a function (not linear) of hole diameters and the distance between them.
3) Since the holes are only 1/2 as big they remove only 1/4 as much surface area and mass from the rotor faces as a larger hole. This does a couple of things:
It increases effective pad area compared with larger holes. The larger the pad area the cooler they will run, all else being equal. If the same amount of heat is generated over a larger surface area it will result in a lower temperature for both surfaces.
It increases the mass the rotor has to absorb heat with. If the same amount of heat is put into a rotor with a larger mass, it will result in a lower temperature.
3) The holes are placed along the vanes, actually cutting into them giving the vane a "half moon" cut along its width. You can see that here:
This does a couple of things:
First, it greatly increases the surface area of the vanes which allows the entire rotors to run cooler which helps prevent cracks by itself.
Second, it effectively stops cracking on that side of the hole which makes it very difficult to get "hole to hole" cracks that go all the way through the face rotor (you'll get tiny surface "spider cracks" on any rotor, blank included if you look hard enough).
2) The holes are only 1/2 the diameter of the holes in most drilled rotors. This reduces the stress concentration factor due to hole interaction which is a function (not linear) of hole diameters and the distance between them.
3) Since the holes are only 1/2 as big they remove only 1/4 as much surface area and mass from the rotor faces as a larger hole. This does a couple of things:
It increases effective pad area compared with larger holes. The larger the pad area the cooler they will run, all else being equal. If the same amount of heat is generated over a larger surface area it will result in a lower temperature for both surfaces.
It increases the mass the rotor has to absorb heat with. If the same amount of heat is put into a rotor with a larger mass, it will result in a lower temperature.
3) The holes are placed along the vanes, actually cutting into them giving the vane a "half moon" cut along its width. You can see that here:
This does a couple of things:
First, it greatly increases the surface area of the vanes which allows the entire rotors to run cooler which helps prevent cracks by itself.
Second, it effectively stops cracking on that side of the hole which makes it very difficult to get "hole to hole" cracks that go all the way through the face rotor (you'll get tiny surface "spider cracks" on any rotor, blank included if you look hard enough).
*edit*
Yes, I've seen drilled rotors crack first hand. I watched a guy have his cross drilled Wilwood rotors explode while braking from 120MPH into a 90º turn at Gingerman Raceway. I'm pretty sure I heard him scream code brown from the paddock where I was standing.
Last edited by Racer X; Nov 13, 2012 at 11:48 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
nick731
Discovery II
3
Mar 27, 2010 11:17 AM
