Brake question
#1
Brake question
So, on my newish to me 2000 DII, the brakes need to be "done". Haven't checked the pads, but I can feel the pulsing that tells me new rotors are in my future.
I've done brakes on my '65 Valiant and my truck ('89 F150) but never on my wife's DII. Are they pretty simple? Crazy sensor wires and hookups or just standard slap new rotor on, put new pads in and go to the next wheel? My truck is 2WD too, so I'm slightly concerned about there maybe being some sort of issue with the 4WD hubs/rotors coming off and on.
Anything the average home mechanic should be wary of?
I've done brakes on my '65 Valiant and my truck ('89 F150) but never on my wife's DII. Are they pretty simple? Crazy sensor wires and hookups or just standard slap new rotor on, put new pads in and go to the next wheel? My truck is 2WD too, so I'm slightly concerned about there maybe being some sort of issue with the 4WD hubs/rotors coming off and on.
Anything the average home mechanic should be wary of?
#2
i'm about to do mine. looks pretty straight forward to me. pull the wheel, pull the caliper, pull the rotor, put new stuff in, re-assemble. i've read to either put a plastic wheel insert or some grease between the wheel and rotor to keep them from bonding together(aluminum vs. steel). other than that i don't think there is anything else to it. i guess we'll see.
jon
jon
#3
they are the same as you ford; there are a couple things you will need a impact driver with a #3 bit to remove the phillips screw that is holding the rotor to the hub.
A lot of JP Blaster because the rotors like to bind up on the hubs, and anti-seeze to keep the new rotor from rusting back one to the hub. Just be sure not to get the antiseeze on the lugs. other than that make sure the caliper mounts move in and out freely and your all set. I see it is a 2000 you should flush all your brake fliud at the same time, you will be amazed how ****ty it gets. it will also help get rid of the "Disco Two Step" thats when you have to pump you pedal twice to get a really good pedal.
A lot of JP Blaster because the rotors like to bind up on the hubs, and anti-seeze to keep the new rotor from rusting back one to the hub. Just be sure not to get the antiseeze on the lugs. other than that make sure the caliper mounts move in and out freely and your all set. I see it is a 2000 you should flush all your brake fliud at the same time, you will be amazed how ****ty it gets. it will also help get rid of the "Disco Two Step" thats when you have to pump you pedal twice to get a really good pedal.
#4
Heads up guys..
You just can't put any pads on a Discovery..
Why?
Wrong pads will squeal at slow speeds and certain braking situations.
They will squeal like a pig.
Trust me.
I have been all over this.
I have tried to save money by putting in my own pads that I have bought.
Sure they fit and they stop the Discovery.
When the rotors and the pads "bed in" then comes the squeal.
You need pads that are OEM.
OEM meaning - the precise co-efficient of friction as not to let the mass consisting of pads resonate and vibrate against the caliper and or pistons.
This is called a resonant frequency.
And, why the pads only squeal usually with one precise note.
I finally took the Discovery I into a local indie who swore he knew the secret sauce.
He had sourced the right brake pads.
Ceramic pads squeal bad in these rovers.
My Discovery II - someone else put pads in it before I owned it.
And, it squeals. Not much, but squeals.
I have tried the orange CRC brake goo to put on the calipers and on the piston.
I have tried the teflon backing.
All of that is a joke.
Get the right pads in the first place.
Savanna may know what they are. Or Mike may know.
Otherwise the job is not hard.
1) Loosen lugs
2) Jack up
3) Wheels off.
4) Screw driver inserted between rotor and pad. Push the pistons back in a bit.
5) pull out the cotter pins holding in the pads.
6) lift pads out. That's it.
To replace the rotors, you need to take the axle out. That is easy.
Axle nuts off. Out comes the axle.
And, then the axle bearings need to come off.
The usual cotter pin.
Nut come off.
Then hub and rotor come off.
You need to unscrew the rotor from the hub.
Obviously replacing the rotor is a lot more involved.
I had a rotor on our Discovery I in the rear for 160,000 miles.
Never turned it.
Was not warped.
Indie shop replaced it anyway as supposedly a state law.
Best.
J
You just can't put any pads on a Discovery..
Why?
Wrong pads will squeal at slow speeds and certain braking situations.
They will squeal like a pig.
Trust me.
I have been all over this.
I have tried to save money by putting in my own pads that I have bought.
Sure they fit and they stop the Discovery.
When the rotors and the pads "bed in" then comes the squeal.
You need pads that are OEM.
OEM meaning - the precise co-efficient of friction as not to let the mass consisting of pads resonate and vibrate against the caliper and or pistons.
This is called a resonant frequency.
And, why the pads only squeal usually with one precise note.
I finally took the Discovery I into a local indie who swore he knew the secret sauce.
He had sourced the right brake pads.
Ceramic pads squeal bad in these rovers.
My Discovery II - someone else put pads in it before I owned it.
And, it squeals. Not much, but squeals.
I have tried the orange CRC brake goo to put on the calipers and on the piston.
I have tried the teflon backing.
All of that is a joke.
Get the right pads in the first place.
Savanna may know what they are. Or Mike may know.
Otherwise the job is not hard.
1) Loosen lugs
2) Jack up
3) Wheels off.
4) Screw driver inserted between rotor and pad. Push the pistons back in a bit.
5) pull out the cotter pins holding in the pads.
6) lift pads out. That's it.
To replace the rotors, you need to take the axle out. That is easy.
Axle nuts off. Out comes the axle.
And, then the axle bearings need to come off.
The usual cotter pin.
Nut come off.
Then hub and rotor come off.
You need to unscrew the rotor from the hub.
Obviously replacing the rotor is a lot more involved.
I had a rotor on our Discovery I in the rear for 160,000 miles.
Never turned it.
Was not warped.
Indie shop replaced it anyway as supposedly a state law.
Best.
J
#6
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Denver, Colorado
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If you want pads that will last longer, don't make brake dust, don't squeak, don't trip the 3 Amigos and stop faster then factory pads, install Akebono Ceramic pads on a good set of rotors. consider replacing your rubber brake hoses with stainless lines and do a full 2 quart DOT 4 brake flush.
Best place to buy them would be on E-Bay or Amazon.
Best place to buy them would be on E-Bay or Amazon.
#8
DIY: Part I — Replacing Rear Rotors and Brake Pads on a Land Rover Discovery II - MAVROMATIC
found this. it's nice because it gives a heads up on what size wrenches to have ready.
jon
found this. it's nice because it gives a heads up on what size wrenches to have ready.
jon
#9
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