My brake reservoir started leaking at the connection to the cylinder. As I read here, there are only two grommets ($24) to replace to fix this, but I am not sure if this is recommended. The other option is to get the complete kit including a new reservoir and filter ($80) or replace the complete master cylinder set ($150). Brakes are strong, not hard or spongy. 2004/130k miles.

 

I went through the same thing last year, just buy the new master cylinder kit. My leak was in the metal to metal junction due to corrosion. I got one from ebay for pretty cheap, just make sure to bench bleed before installing.
Much quicker fix and not worth the time messing around with the kit in my opinion, the rest of the cylinder is still almost 20 years old.

 

Thanks, this confirms my suspicion. I will get a new MC and I have to flush/replace the brake fluid anyway, which involves bleeding. I can make a power bleed cable (relay trick) myself and have a leftover check valve from one of my projects in order to build the one man bleeder. Still, I have my son to assist me. In meantime I am going trough all the great write-ups in this forum, but it looks pretty straight forward so far.

 

Last time I bought a complete new aftermarket MC it was 54.00 for the entire thing.

 

Here is one for 63.66

99-04 D2 Master Cylinder

 

Are those cheapos worth it? The D2 is my "daily" driver and family car.

TRWs are at $150 on ebay. AB sells them too.

 

The "cheapo" doesn't have the seal issue the OEM style does. I've installed plenty for people = zero issues and my 99 D2 has one on it = zero issues. Those kits with the seals, and new reservoir used to be 50.00, but 65-95.00 for them now is just not worth it at all.

 

Skip the rebuild kit and get a new MC.

 

I got a new TRW branded master cylinder. Successfully replaced the master cylinder:


After the MC removed, corrosion on the booster is visible.


Removed the rust with a Dremel, the yellow plastic cap from the defective MC was used as cover.


Primed ...


... and painted.


After installation of the new MC I did the "bench" bleeding process with the help of some plastic and rubber hose pieces. You can pump the paddle while sitting in the seat and see the clear hoses through the gap between the open hood and the windshield cowl. Keep the clear plastic lines as short as possible and submerge the other ends into the brake fluid of the completely filled reservoir. Otherwise you will not get the bubbles out and suck them in again. It took quite a while to get all the bubbles out.


After a traditional bleeding with the help of my son I did the "HDC bleeding" and then a power bleeding with the self made kit above. Take the ABS relay out, bridge the ABS relay contacts, open bleeder screw, let it flow until clean and no bubbles, close bleeder screw (ignition always off).

 

This is my next purchase to stop my squishy brakes