Mass Air Flow Sensor...check
New Exhaust (pipes, Cats, Muff., exhaust manifolds)...check
Spark Plugs, plug wires, ignition coils...check
Sparkling clean throttle body...check
All vacuum lines replaced
All coolant lines replaced
Radiator replaced
Thermostat
All fluids replaced
all filters replaced

Work performed and completed today
New valve cover gaskets...check
New head gasket and bolts...check
New oil separator/PCV valve...check

What's next? Replace all remaining sensors, fuel injectors, and whatever else. Before you know it, I'll have 10k. in this thing. I definitely picked a gem. Kinda like a sore pecker-you can't beat it.

 

Looking on the bright side of this, I'll have myself a new DISCO before I know it!

 

There are all sorts of things that can cause a rich condition.
What are you getting for codes exactly?
Also, do you have a scan tool with live data? It is almost always a necessity with OBD2 vehicles.

 

I get different sets of codes every time I replace/repair/perform service. Next thing you know, I'll be down to replacing the brains of the DISCO.
VIN NUMBER: SALTY16433A825754

 

Different codes every time... Hmmmm...
Almost every time I have a vehicle come in that has all sorts of different codes popping up, it's almost always related to the 5v reference. Either a short somewhere in the wiring, a sensor shorting out internally or the computer powers or grounds.

 

Funny that you just sent this because I have been looking over some schematics, over the last half hour.

 

What I like to do is, back probe an easy to get to 5v wire, like from the MAF sensor. Sometimes you'll find right away that it's being pulled down by something. If so, unplug one sensor at a time until it jumps back up to 5v if it does jump back up, the last one you unplugged is where to look for the problem. If it doesn't, I usually look at any point where the wires lay over the engine and make sure, first of all, that the conduit is intact.
If I don't find anything there, I usually go to the computer and check all of the powers and grounds.

 

I dont see O2 sensors on that list. Have you tried switching out all your O2s with genuine Bosch?

 

Yeah, I just forgot to mention that I replaced them and yes, they are Bosch. I may have found the problem earlier. Multiple conductors with stripped off insulation, cheaply butt-spliced and wrapped with electrical tape. I'm a Master Electrician and a EE and such crap work just kills me...ghetto splicing! There's no splicing on such low voltage. Small conductor size coupled with a +2/-2 allowable voltage gain and drop on DC circuits, I will have to replace all of the spliced circuits. All this goes along with what I found the other day with the three bobby pins that were shoved inside wire terminals of the rear left brake signal/bulb fixture...I guess that the previous owners where trying to establish better continuity. SMH

 

I remember hearing about a way to bypass your brake light switch by jumping or crossing your brakes lights or something. The problem usually starts when the brake light switch on the brake pedal goes bad, it will prevent you from shifting out of park. I think a quick solution to get you around while you get a new switch is to jump a brake light or something. I've never had that problem so I wouldn't know, but maybe that's what they were trying to do.

Here is something I read about it.