Buying Advice
Hey All,
I’m trying to hunt down a Rover as a work truck/daily driver/fun toy - I can’t help but love the shape of both the Range Rover and the Disco II.
Is there any advice or insights people can give me for when looking at the Disco? Issues to watch out for and run away from, things that may be wrong but are worth fixing? I should mention that I do DIY maintanence and repairs.
Thanks for your time,
Ashton Dimovski
I’m trying to hunt down a Rover as a work truck/daily driver/fun toy - I can’t help but love the shape of both the Range Rover and the Disco II.
Is there any advice or insights people can give me for when looking at the Disco? Issues to watch out for and run away from, things that may be wrong but are worth fixing? I should mention that I do DIY maintanence and repairs.
Thanks for your time,
Ashton Dimovski
These trucks are easy to work on. Most problems are no big deal. The few big deals revolve around overheating. Headgaskets and bearings seem to last 90,000 to 140,000 miles.
Look underneath your potential "new" truck before you test drive to see where your oil leaks come from. Repeat this step after your test drive. Small leaks are common. Avoid rusted frames.
Buy a truck that doesn't overheat on your test drive and that doesn't have rod knock when you rev at idle.
If you paid $4 for the ELM327 on eBay then you can install it and check engine codes and fluid temp during/after your test drive via your smartphone. No misfire codes is good. Other codes don't matter so much unless you are in an Emissions state.
There's some basic maintenance that you will want to do preventively once you do buy, such as replacing old drive shafts or at least the rubber Rotoflex joint, as well as check/refill diffs, transfer case, and transmission with appropriate fluids as they are typically ignored/neglected.
Look underneath your potential "new" truck before you test drive to see where your oil leaks come from. Repeat this step after your test drive. Small leaks are common. Avoid rusted frames.
Buy a truck that doesn't overheat on your test drive and that doesn't have rod knock when you rev at idle.
If you paid $4 for the ELM327 on eBay then you can install it and check engine codes and fluid temp during/after your test drive via your smartphone. No misfire codes is good. Other codes don't matter so much unless you are in an Emissions state.
There's some basic maintenance that you will want to do preventively once you do buy, such as replacing old drive shafts or at least the rubber Rotoflex joint, as well as check/refill diffs, transfer case, and transmission with appropriate fluids as they are typically ignored/neglected.
Last edited by No Doubt; Jan 23, 2019 at 10:52 AM.
These trucks are easy to work on. Most problems are no big deal. The few big deals revolve around overheating. Headgaskets and bearings seem to last 90,000 to 140,000 miles.
Look underneath your potential "new" truck before you test drive to see where your oil leaks come from. Repeat this step after your test drive. Small leaks are common. Avoid rusted frames.
Buy a truck that doesn't overheat on your test drive and that doesn't have rod knock when you rev at idle.
If you paid $4 for the ELM327 on eBay then you can install it and check engine codes and fluid temp during/after your test drive via your smartphone. No misfire codes is good. Other codes don't matter so much unless you are in an Emissions state.
There's some basic maintenance that you will want to do preventively once you do buy, such as replacing old drive shafts or at least the rubber Rotoflex joint, as well as check/refill diffs, transfer case, and transmission with appropriate fluids as they are typically ignored/neglected.
Look underneath your potential "new" truck before you test drive to see where your oil leaks come from. Repeat this step after your test drive. Small leaks are common. Avoid rusted frames.
Buy a truck that doesn't overheat on your test drive and that doesn't have rod knock when you rev at idle.
If you paid $4 for the ELM327 on eBay then you can install it and check engine codes and fluid temp during/after your test drive via your smartphone. No misfire codes is good. Other codes don't matter so much unless you are in an Emissions state.
There's some basic maintenance that you will want to do preventively once you do buy, such as replacing old drive shafts or at least the rubber Rotoflex joint, as well as check/refill diffs, transfer case, and transmission with appropriate fluids as they are typically ignored/neglected.
I remember reading once that often times the coolant gets corrosive and that’s what leads to the head gasket failure - is that true to your knowledge?
IF you can find records on your purchase that show low miles on the current set of headgaskets, great. Otherwise you'll simply drive enough that you will need to do a head gasket job eventually. Easy enough to do with simple hand tools. You can leave the motor in the truck and replace the head gaskets with the hood raised.
Heck, you can replace all of the rod bearings and main bearings with the motor still in the truck, connected to the transmission, as well... just by dropping the oil pan.
The only things that require pulling out the motor (pain in the butt) are the last cam bearings and crankshaft.
Also, there are lots of youtube videos showing how to do many Disco 2 jobs. You can use their knowledge and not have to reinvent the wheel everytime there is a prob.
Last edited by No Doubt; Jan 23, 2019 at 03:24 PM.
After owning mine for 6 years and only putting 20,000 miles on it, I have to say that I'm not a fan of the vehicle. They don't have much power for how much gas they burn and they have really poor gearing for towing. I'd look for something newer with a V6 and prolly from a Japanese manufacturer if I were in the market.
After owning mine for 6 years and only putting 20,000 miles on it, I have to say that I'm not a fan of the vehicle. They don't have much power for how much gas they burn and they have really poor gearing for towing. I'd look for something newer with a V6 and prolly from a Japanese manufacturer if I were in the market.
Different strokes...
My 2001 Disco won't tow a 1,500 pound snowmobile trailer up a 6% grade and stay in 3rd gear. It has to shift to 2nd and rev the snot out of it. My 2000 Nissan Frontier (with 18 less HP and 50 ft.lbs less torque) tows the same trailer uphill better. The Nissan does have a 5 speed manual transmission though.
Find a high miler cheap and sit on the LS Swap. The best scenario may be a sleeved Rover V8 for ease, but for the money you can get a more modern engine with better power and torque. Depends on if you want to wrench though.
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