A/C help???
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 1
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Had same thing too and it ended up being the compressor plug-in under the hood that came loose and caused the random. Put the air on and if it ain't working, open the hood and go play with the compressor plug-in. Takes a minute and nothing to loose.
Last edited by Darover; Oct 8, 2009 at 08:51 AM.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 417
Likes: 41
Sorry for the delay. I have a 2000 DII. The picture is showing the back of the interior fuseblock. The drawing is of the engine bay fuseblock near the battery.
As for the interior fuseblock, check fuse 7 for power with a test light (with A/C on).
If you have power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0584 (see photo), locate the brown with red wire. From the location of that wire in the connector determine which pin on the fuseblock that wire attaches to. Check that pin for power from fuse 7. If you don't have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power from fuse 7 to the rear connector). Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did (see below). If you have power on this pin, then either the voltage is less than the blower needs to run or there is a loose connection/cut wire.
If no power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0581 (see photo), locate the brown with pink wire, test this wire through the connector with the test light (with A/C on). If you have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power to fuse 7 from the rear connector power supply).
Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did.The wires in the connector are locked in with a thin white plastic plug. Pull this plug out with needlenose pliers, take a small flat blade screwdriver and dig/pry the brown with pink wire out. It will already have a spade bit receptor attached.
Do the same for connector 0584, for the the brown with red wire (This wire is direct to the blower). Buy a 30 amp inline fuse, attach spade bit tips to both ends of the 30 amp inline fuse and plug into the 2 wires you dug out. The blower should work now.
If you don't have power at the brown with pink wire (connector 0581), then you need to check the engine bay fuseblock (see drawing in linked thread provided earlier). Power starts at fuselink 4 and exits the fuseblock at the connector shown through the said brown with pink wire.
As for the interior fuseblock, check fuse 7 for power with a test light (with A/C on).
If you have power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0584 (see photo), locate the brown with red wire. From the location of that wire in the connector determine which pin on the fuseblock that wire attaches to. Check that pin for power from fuse 7. If you don't have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power from fuse 7 to the rear connector). Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did (see below). If you have power on this pin, then either the voltage is less than the blower needs to run or there is a loose connection/cut wire.
If no power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0581 (see photo), locate the brown with pink wire, test this wire through the connector with the test light (with A/C on). If you have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power to fuse 7 from the rear connector power supply).
Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did.The wires in the connector are locked in with a thin white plastic plug. Pull this plug out with needlenose pliers, take a small flat blade screwdriver and dig/pry the brown with pink wire out. It will already have a spade bit receptor attached.
Do the same for connector 0584, for the the brown with red wire (This wire is direct to the blower). Buy a 30 amp inline fuse, attach spade bit tips to both ends of the 30 amp inline fuse and plug into the 2 wires you dug out. The blower should work now.
If you don't have power at the brown with pink wire (connector 0581), then you need to check the engine bay fuseblock (see drawing in linked thread provided earlier). Power starts at fuselink 4 and exits the fuseblock at the connector shown through the said brown with pink wire.
Last edited by PalmettoDisco; Oct 8, 2009 at 10:33 PM.
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 214
Likes: 19
From: Arizona
Palmetto,
You are the man!! Traced it back to the engine fuse block just like you said and bypassed it, ran a 30amp inline fuse and blowing cold air again. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
You are the man!! Traced it back to the engine fuse block just like you said and bypassed it, ran a 30amp inline fuse and blowing cold air again. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
7th Gear
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Palmetto,
You have some great advice on the A/C issues!
Here is mine:
Of course the blower has developed a mind of it's own and I first noticed it cutting out when the glove box was slammed, but not all the time.
Based on other threads I checked connections, fuses, pulled the fan out (which runs like a top when hit with 12V), and checked the voltage at the blower connection (somewhere around 4V, but that may be a speed control function).
After doing all these things and giving up it decided to work for the first time in 2 months just to torture me! However this time I noticed that the audio on the same side of the vehicle has cut out as well.
Is there a common ground connection that would explain both issues?
Thanks in advance.
You have some great advice on the A/C issues!
Here is mine:
Of course the blower has developed a mind of it's own and I first noticed it cutting out when the glove box was slammed, but not all the time.
Based on other threads I checked connections, fuses, pulled the fan out (which runs like a top when hit with 12V), and checked the voltage at the blower connection (somewhere around 4V, but that may be a speed control function).
After doing all these things and giving up it decided to work for the first time in 2 months just to torture me! However this time I noticed that the audio on the same side of the vehicle has cut out as well.
Is there a common ground connection that would explain both issues?
Thanks in advance.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 417
Likes: 41
I could not discern any obvious common connectors to ground/earth, that were side specific (RAVE schematics). You may want to download the RAVE and look yourself.
As for the voltage at the blower, check it with the fan at max speed. All the resistors are bypassed, and a full 12 Volts is supplied.
As for the voltage at the blower, check it with the fan at max speed. All the resistors are bypassed, and a full 12 Volts is supplied.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Sorry for the delay. I have a 2000 DII. The picture is showing the back of the interior fuseblock. The drawing is of the engine bay fuseblock near the battery.
As for the interior fuseblock, check fuse 7 for power with a test light (with A/C on).
If you have power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0584 (see photo), locate the brown with red wire. From the location of that wire in the connector determine which pin on the fuseblock that wire attaches to. Check that pin for power from fuse 7. If you don't have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power from fuse 7 to the rear connector). Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did (see below). If you have power on this pin, then either the voltage is less than the blower needs to run or there is a loose connection/cut wire.
If no power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0581 (see photo), locate the brown with pink wire, test this wire through the connector with the test light (with A/C on). If you have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power to fuse 7 from the rear connector power supply).
Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did.The wires in the connector are locked in with a thin white plastic plug. Pull this plug out with needlenose pliers, take a small flat blade screwdriver and dig/pry the brown with pink wire out. It will already have a spade bit receptor attached.
Do the same for connector 0584, for the the brown with red wire (This wire is direct to the blower). Buy a 30 amp inline fuse, attach spade bit tips to both ends of the 30 amp inline fuse and plug into the 2 wires you dug out. The blower should work now.
If you don't have power at the brown with pink wire (connector 0581), then you need to check the engine bay fuseblock (see drawing in linked thread provided earlier). Power starts at fuselink 4 and exits the fuseblock at the connector shown through the said brown with pink wire.
As for the interior fuseblock, check fuse 7 for power with a test light (with A/C on).
If you have power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0584 (see photo), locate the brown with red wire. From the location of that wire in the connector determine which pin on the fuseblock that wire attaches to. Check that pin for power from fuse 7. If you don't have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power from fuse 7 to the rear connector). Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did (see below). If you have power on this pin, then either the voltage is less than the blower needs to run or there is a loose connection/cut wire.
If no power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0581 (see photo), locate the brown with pink wire, test this wire through the connector with the test light (with A/C on). If you have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power to fuse 7 from the rear connector power supply).
Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did.The wires in the connector are locked in with a thin white plastic plug. Pull this plug out with needlenose pliers, take a small flat blade screwdriver and dig/pry the brown with pink wire out. It will already have a spade bit receptor attached.
Do the same for connector 0584, for the the brown with red wire (This wire is direct to the blower). Buy a 30 amp inline fuse, attach spade bit tips to both ends of the 30 amp inline fuse and plug into the 2 wires you dug out. The blower should work now.
If you don't have power at the brown with pink wire (connector 0581), then you need to check the engine bay fuseblock (see drawing in linked thread provided earlier). Power starts at fuselink 4 and exits the fuseblock at the connector shown through the said brown with pink wire.