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A/C not blowing

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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #21  
sloan74's Avatar
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when he connected it to the battery, you observed it come on right? does it look to do the same when the ac is on, truck in idle, and it's not connected straight to the battery etc? it's gotta be related to that blower motor somehow, that's my thinking at least
 

Last edited by sloan74; Jun 27, 2011 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 04:35 PM
  #22  
DarylJ's Avatar
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Have him test the voltage going to the motor as well as the resistance to ground from the motor connection.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 05:07 PM
  #23  
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We got it tested and no power at all. Shows like it's disconnected, totally dead.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jonmora05
We got it tested and no power at all. Shows like it's disconnected, totally dead.
http://macassemble.com/lrm/discovery...20Diagrams.pdf

Page 77.

Seems that you are at the point where you have someone who can help with testing the electronics, so give him that. You basically need to work your way back through the system to see where the power or ground stops.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 06:28 PM
  #25  
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He's gonna try to work on the truck tomorrow. I will keep you'll updated.
Thank you'll very much...
 
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #26  
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I had a similar problem so I thought I'd throw my two cents in jik someone else reads through these posts as I did.

Blower would come on sometimes. Sometimes no. Started getting worse. Would come on when I hit big bumps or potholes, sometimes. Blew cold air somewhat when moving and not in recirculate due to air being forced through the system from outside at speed. This would sometimes cause it to turn back on. Apperently, the forced circulation created a current and jumpstarted the blower motor.

Anyway, time are tough all around and I decided I'd try and fix it myself. Thought it might be the fuse boxes because of other unrelated issues and started there. That wasn't it and I learned to start at the end of the circuit first (at the blower motor not the engine fuse box). There was current at the blower, so I figured the motor was the problem. Pulled it out, connected it to the battery and Bingo... Dead.

Went online and saw they cost $300 and decided to try to fix the motor. Unscrewed the torx screws and removed the clamp holding the fan blades. Unclipped the plug from the side also. Pulled the motor out of the casing and, aha.... It was FULL of what i assume is carbon from the wearing down of the brushes that rub against the motor and transmit the electricity. Cleaned it out with compressed air (do this outside as the dust cloud was impressive). I used a cheap air can that is used to clean computer keyboards. Put it all back together and voila.... Blower motor works perfectly.

The brushes are worn and I will be ordering a pair and replacing them when I get around to it. Just wanted to point out that you don't necessarily have to replace the blower motor in every situation. Hope this helps someone.

I thank everyone who posts to this site. I have saved tons of money and learned how to fix my disco 2 by reading through the material available here. I am not a mechanic nor have I ever worked on one of my other cars. Disco Mike especially seems to contribute a lot and be knowlegable. Again thanks.

Btw.. I'm in the caribbean fighting 90+ degree F weather so every day without a/c is torture in a suit and tie.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 05:22 PM
  #27  
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ARB: If you find a source for the brushes, please post a link or phone number! Mine has been making bearing noise, and have gone through the same steps you outlined, plus lubricating the bearings. The cricket noise returned within a few months, and is external temperature dependent. Like you, I have no plans to spend that kind of money for a new one, and can and will rebuild this one myself, if I can find parts for it. It's a Bosh motor, and I have checked several Bosch motor suppliers for repair parts based on the motor part number (Bosch #) but have come up with nothing yet.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #28  
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My AC wasn't working, till I replaced the relay in the fuse box in the engine compartment. Now I'm good to go... Hope you have the same luck!

DRW
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 12:08 PM
  #29  
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Lord: I read on a mercedes forum that people buy larger brushes and file them down to fit their application. They're forced to do this because they can't find parts. This is probably the route i will take.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 12:46 PM
  #30  
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Been there and fixed it. It really is the fuse panel. Either the interior one, the engine bay one, or both. You can replace the effected one(s) or you can bypass the panel(s). I bypassed them. Both front and rear a/c were out on mine. Somehow the internal electrical bridge from the rear of the panel to the front of the panel(through the fuseblock) gets broken internally. Only the a/c fuses are broken.My fix is in the link below. Hope this helps.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...m-fixed-22524/
 
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