Cabin temp sensor fan won't shut off
One of the two things other than the sensor powered by fuse 31 is the Air Temp Control ECU. Does the display on the heating-A/C control unit turn off when the ignition is turned off. In other words, does another thing that's supplied with power from the same source also stay powered when the ignition is off?
This is a weird one, especially for a system that is not complex. Are you dead-certain the sensor fan is running with the ignition off?
Let's look at something else. A common cause of phantom battery drain on a DII is the Self Leveling System if the truck once had air springs in the rear that were replaced with coils without the air springs/coils setting being changed in the SLABS computer. Was your truck converted from air springs to coils?
This is a weird one, especially for a system that is not complex. Are you dead-certain the sensor fan is running with the ignition off?
Let's look at something else. A common cause of phantom battery drain on a DII is the Self Leveling System if the truck once had air springs in the rear that were replaced with coils without the air springs/coils setting being changed in the SLABS computer. Was your truck converted from air springs to coils?
No, it also stays on. If you hit the power switch on the HVAC unit on the dash, it goes on, whether the key is in the ignition or not. If I'm driving the truck, and park it in my driveway and take out the key, it stays on, unless you remember to manually hit the power button.
"Are you dead-certain the sensor fan is running with the ignition off?"
Absolutely certain. I unplugged it, cleaned it and reinstalled it. It runs, key in the ignition or not.
"Was your truck converted from air springs to coils?"
No, the truck never had the air ride system.
It seems as though anything on that system is not being powered down when I take out the key.
Thanks again, for everyone's input.
Last edited by gulfstream69xr7; Jan 24, 2018 at 06:49 AM.
Possibly there's something amiss with your ignition key circuits? Looks like the common factor is fuse 31, which is supposed to be switched by the key.
Although I don't know why everything else that's key-switched wouldn't also be affected.
Although I don't know why everything else that's key-switched wouldn't also be affected.
Does the same apply to the HVAC?
I can literally, open the door, reach into the Rover, hit the power button on the HVAC, and turn on the blower motor.
Without ever inserting the key.
The entire interior heating and cooling system remains on when I take out the key. If I don't remember to manually turn it off, it kills the battery.
Does that sound like the ignition system?
I can literally, open the door, reach into the Rover, hit the power button on the HVAC, and turn on the blower motor.
Without ever inserting the key.
The entire interior heating and cooling system remains on when I take out the key. If I don't remember to manually turn it off, it kills the battery.
Does that sound like the ignition system?
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Can the ignition switch actually leave just one circuit on?
And if so, I assume I need to replace the ignition switch?
Last edited by gulfstream69xr7; Jan 24, 2018 at 05:24 PM.
I looked at the diagrams again.
Ign switch would not leave just the HVAC circuit non-powered but the other circuits being powered as well don't have a small fan in a sensor to notice running and cause some if not most of the drain. That switch contact appears to also be powering fuse 30 for CC and mirrors. Check to see if you can adjust your mirrors with the switch off.
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Ign switch would not leave just the HVAC circuit non-powered but the other circuits being powered as well don't have a small fan in a sensor to notice running and cause some if not most of the drain. That switch contact appears to also be powering fuse 30 for CC and mirrors. Check to see if you can adjust your mirrors with the switch off.
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I looked at the diagrams again.
Ign switch would not leave just the HVAC circuit non-powered but the other circuits being powered as well don't have a small fan in a sensor to notice running and cause some if not most of the drain. That switch contact appears to also be powering fuse 30 for CC and mirrors. Check to see if you can adjust your mirrors with the switch off.
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Ign switch would not leave just the HVAC circuit non-powered but the other circuits being powered as well don't have a small fan in a sensor to notice running and cause some if not most of the drain. That switch contact appears to also be powering fuse 30 for CC and mirrors. Check to see if you can adjust your mirrors with the switch off.
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You are correct sir.
Mirrors still have power. Also, the CC switch lights up when depressed. Is this one particular leg of the ignition switch mechanism?
Thanks again, you guys are amazing.
Is this one particular leg of the ignition switch mechanism?
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I would think that if the wiring were compromised, it would short. This just stays on. The actual mechanical ignition tumbler works fine. Key goes in, turns, car starts, it turns fine to shut it off. The only issue is that the one leg appears to not shut off.
Looking at pictures it appears as though I should be looking at replacing the round black plastic main switch that connects to the end of the metal tumbler housing, and pigtails under the dash.
These trucks have knows issues with other components in that area getting dirty and malfunctioning... such as the wiper control and headlight wands. You might try opening it up and cleaning it. A chunk of debris or corrosion on a contactor could leave the circuit on.
You might try opening it up and cleaning it. A chunk of debris or corrosion on a contactor could leave the circuit on.
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