Cabin temp sensor fan won't shut off
Toss that in as a slight possibility. If you look at the diagram if the 2A output wire and the power into ign switch were to rub enough to wear through insulation and touched it would do the same, constantly power the fuses in question. That would be two wires shorted together. Unlike a short to ground it wouldn't blow a fuse.
That's a possibility as well. GS needs to decide if he wants to take the time to tear things apart to check and possible find nothing obvious and/or have a switch in hand to swap in once things are apart. More time than money or more money than time?
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That's a possibility as well. GS needs to decide if he wants to take the time to tear things apart to check and possible find nothing obvious and/or have a switch in hand to swap in once things are apart. More time than money or more money than time?
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I've ordered a replacement switch and pigtail. I'm thinking that if I replace the switch and wiring back to the connector I can at least eliminate that as a possibility. It was not expensive, so I I'm willing to spend a couple bucks and an afternoon swapping it in. I'll let you all know how it works out.
Thanks again.
Well, that didn't work. I replaced the switch and pigtail back to the main fuse box under the dash. Cabin auto temp fan, CC, HVAC and mirrors still have power without the key in the ignition. In fact, even if you unplug the switch connector entirely from the fuse box, it still has power on that circuit.
How on earth can that circuit be getting it's power? It cannot be the switch. I disconnected the switch completely. Is there a relay that could be bad, anything else I'm missing? As soon as you hook up the battery that circuit is live. I need to figure this out. I'm having to jump start the car every time it sits for more than 24 hours.
How on earth can that circuit be getting it's power? It cannot be the switch. I disconnected the switch completely. Is there a relay that could be bad, anything else I'm missing? As soon as you hook up the battery that circuit is live. I need to figure this out. I'm having to jump start the car every time it sits for more than 24 hours.
I'm sorry to hear that the new ignition switch didn't solve the problem. I've read here about gremlins appearing tied to the passenger fuse box. A friend of mine had to replace the fuse box in his truck several years ago but I don't recall the problem he was chasing. I'd suggest removing and inspecting it very carefully to see if you can find where the circuit is getting power even with the switch off.
I don't know how the fuse box is connected to the wiring harnesses, but you may want to take apart and clean the connectors where the wiring connects for the problem circuit. A couple years ago my truck was throwing an SRS system code that indicated a problem in the driver airbag circuit. I replaced the airbag but the fault didn't go away. I eventually traced the problem to the connector where the airbag circuit plugged into the SRS computer. There was somehow a short inside the connector even though the connector looked sound and there was no visible problem. I removed the wires from the connector and thoroughly cleaned it. I reassembled it and the problem went away. I still have no idea what the problem was or how the short was occurring but the problem was clearly in the connector. Best4x4 recently reported a similar occurrence he had with a SLABS connector.
Good luck and please let us know what you find as you continue to try to find the problem.
I don't know how the fuse box is connected to the wiring harnesses, but you may want to take apart and clean the connectors where the wiring connects for the problem circuit. A couple years ago my truck was throwing an SRS system code that indicated a problem in the driver airbag circuit. I replaced the airbag but the fault didn't go away. I eventually traced the problem to the connector where the airbag circuit plugged into the SRS computer. There was somehow a short inside the connector even though the connector looked sound and there was no visible problem. I removed the wires from the connector and thoroughly cleaned it. I reassembled it and the problem went away. I still have no idea what the problem was or how the short was occurring but the problem was clearly in the connector. Best4x4 recently reported a similar occurrence he had with a SLABS connector.
Good luck and please let us know what you find as you continue to try to find the problem.
Might be shorting in the fuse box? Unfortunately without have the knowledge/skill/experience to do hands on electrical TS you are relegated to swapping parts or having some else to TS locally.
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Well, that didn't work. I replaced the switch and pigtail back to the main fuse box under the dash. Cabin auto temp fan, CC, HVAC and mirrors still have power without the key in the ignition. In fact, even if you unplug the switch connector entirely from the fuse box, it still has power on that circuit.
How on earth can that circuit be getting it's power? It cannot be the switch. I disconnected the switch completely. Is there a relay that could be bad, anything else I'm missing? As soon as you hook up the battery that circuit is live. I need to figure this out. I'm having to jump start the car every time it sits for more than 24 hours.
How on earth can that circuit be getting it's power? It cannot be the switch. I disconnected the switch completely. Is there a relay that could be bad, anything else I'm missing? As soon as you hook up the battery that circuit is live. I need to figure this out. I'm having to jump start the car every time it sits for more than 24 hours.
Have you checked the electrical diagrams in RAVE? Has anyone ever done any electrical mods to the truck? or wired the cabin sensor and mirrors any way other than through the ignition live wire? The mirrors continue to power for around 10-20 seconds for folding away after the ignition has been switched off so maybe there is an electrical timer gone kaput, check the RAVE electrical diagrams on the forum here for the circuits.
The mirrors continue to power for around 10-20 seconds for folding away after the ignition has been switched off so maybe there is an electrical timer gone kaput
So then there has to be a secondary path of power to that circuit. How do I track down that timer. I seem to remember that when this first started the fan would take longer and longer to shut off, and then ultimately stopped shutting off.
FOLDING MIRRORS (JAPAN ONLY)
DESCRIPTION
Folding Mirrors (Japan only)
The door mirrors can be folded electrically to prevent damage using the joystick operated
mirror switch located on the fascia. The mirrors only operate with the ignition switch in
position II.
DESCRIPTION
Folding Mirrors (Japan only)
The door mirrors can be folded electrically to prevent damage using the joystick operated
mirror switch located on the fascia. The mirrors only operate with the ignition switch in
position II.

FOLDING MIRRORS (JAPAN ONLY)
DESCRIPTION
Folding Mirrors (Japan only)
The door mirrors can be folded electrically to prevent damage using the joystick operated
mirror switch located on the fascia. The mirrors only operate with the ignition switch in
position II.
I don't know where this BS came from but all ES specced models with options have heated and folding mirrors, mine certainly has and it's a NAS ES LHD D2 TD5.
DESCRIPTION
Folding Mirrors (Japan only)
The door mirrors can be folded electrically to prevent damage using the joystick operated
mirror switch located on the fascia. The mirrors only operate with the ignition switch in
position II.
I don't know where this BS came from but all ES specced models with options have heated and folding mirrors, mine certainly has and it's a NAS ES LHD D2 TD5.
I don't know where this BS came
ES spec
ES spec
What's ES? Not all Rovers are created equal we don't miss the FMs much but would like to have had more diesels sent to the NAS markets.
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Last edited by number9; Feb 4, 2018 at 06:02 PM.


