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Caliper Replacement/Brake Bleed Question

Old Nov 29, 2014 | 12:49 PM
  #11  
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From: Boston Strong
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Do not clamp the hose, hold the petal down,with the pedal down the valve in the master is closed and the master cant drain down.
u will havE to bleed it no matter what, both sides.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 02:53 PM
  #12  
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Thanks. Just the rears, right?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 04:22 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by drowssap
Do not clamp the hose, hold the petal down,with the pedal down the valve in the master is closed and the master cant drain down.
u will havE to bleed it no matter what, both sides.
Good one drowssap, I've learned something from this today. I agree clamping even a rubber stock hose can crack the nylon mesh reinforcement. I never knew/realised holding down the brake pedal cut off the reservoir fluid and that's going to be very useful when I rebuild my calipers. Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 09:54 AM
  #14  
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DSCVRY, if you do this, could you take some pics of what bolts exactly need to come off for caliper removal? I was going to do this, but I had a hard time losening the caliper bracket, but perhaps it seems I can take the caliper off just with the guides. (Ive seen youtube videos to that effect on other makes).
 
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 10:56 AM
  #15  
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From: Boston Strong
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I THINK that you need to remove the bracket if you are going to take the rotor off. But I am not sure if it is required to remove the caliper. But I have been wrong before.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 11:34 AM
  #16  
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You don't need to take off the base bracket to remove the caliper but it may pay to replace the bracket also as they rust to hell. The bracket is held on with 2x 12 point bolts each sealed with Loctite thread lock.

RAVE Page 70-44
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 05:32 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
You don't need to take off the base bracket to remove the caliper but it may pay to replace the bracket also as they rust to hell. The bracket is held on with 2x 12 point bolts each sealed with Loctite thread lock.

RAVE Page 70-44
Drowsap: yes, I am trying to take off the rotors and replace them.

Offroadfrance: The loctite might explain why I could not get the stupid bolts off last time I tried even with PB Blaster. An trick to this? With the car on jack stands, I did not have clearance for a breaker bar and due to the steering linkage, I could not get a wrench in such a position where I could hammer on it. I have a smaller air compressor, perhaps an impact gun might do the trick?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 06:44 AM
  #18  
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heat the bolt head with a small torch it will loosen the lock tight, but with a good breaker bar they should come lose.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 07:18 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by drowssap
heat the bolt head with a small torch it will loosen the lock tight, but with a good breaker bar they should come lose.
Heat and soaking with nail varnish remover (acetone, but don't sniff it too much or you'll be flying ) breaks down Loctite. Bloody LR are far too handy with Loctite or similar variant when assembling and often not necessary.

If changing rotors you defo have to remove the caliper brackets also, I've had trouble with those 12 point bolts and you ideally need 12 point HD impact sockets to shift them as often they break standard sockets even quality ones.
 
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