Camel Steel Wheels for D2
#25
#26
I wonder how those solid wheels will effect the brakes. On old LR's with Drum Brakes cooling wasn't issue, but vented disc normally need a flow of air across them to keep em cool.
I've got a set of 5 steel D2 wheels from AB in my shop that I plan on slapping some 265/75R16 M/T's on some day, but I like the lighter alloy wheels for 99% of the time.
I've got a set of 5 steel D2 wheels from AB in my shop that I plan on slapping some 265/75R16 M/T's on some day, but I like the lighter alloy wheels for 99% of the time.
#27
I wonder how those solid wheels will effect the brakes. On old LR's with Drum Brakes cooling wasn't issue, but vented disc normally need a flow of air across them to keep em cool.
I've got a set of 5 steel D2 wheels from AB in my shop that I plan on slapping some 265/75R16 M/T's on some day, but I like the lighter alloy wheels for 99% of the time.
I've got a set of 5 steel D2 wheels from AB in my shop that I plan on slapping some 265/75R16 M/T's on some day, but I like the lighter alloy wheels for 99% of the time.
#28
I hear ya. But steel wheels are more offroad friendly. The inner portion of steel wheels is recessed and less likely to rub aginst rocks. When steel wheels do get damaged you can potentially hammer them back in place as said before so thats what Im looking for. Ive decided to go with RRC114560MUW wheels and they do have better venting so that should not be a problem. They also look fantastic painted white!
Switching to steel wheels won't fix poor driving. In fact steel wheels may be worse. On steel wheels the wheel studs are exposed so if you drive blindly again you'll ruin your wheel studs instead of just the alloy nut caps.
Not that you've ever listened to me, but I'd pull all the caps off your current lug nuts and run your stock alloys. You need more seat time on the trail to improve your driver skill. Until that happens you might as well beat up the wheels you've already ruined.
#29
How in the world did you damage your wheels that badly!??
Switching to steel wheels won't fix poor driving. In fact steel wheels may be worse. On steel wheels the wheel studs are exposed so if you drive blindly again you'll ruin your wheel studs instead of just the alloy nut caps.
Not that you've ever listened to me, but I'd pull all the caps off your current lug nuts and run your stock alloys. You need more seat time on the trail to improve your driver skill. Until that happens you might as well beat up the wheels you've already ruined.
Switching to steel wheels won't fix poor driving. In fact steel wheels may be worse. On steel wheels the wheel studs are exposed so if you drive blindly again you'll ruin your wheel studs instead of just the alloy nut caps.
Not that you've ever listened to me, but I'd pull all the caps off your current lug nuts and run your stock alloys. You need more seat time on the trail to improve your driver skill. Until that happens you might as well beat up the wheels you've already ruined.
I didn't even notice the lug nuts! Wow!
Boy...wtf have you been doing?! Looks like you've just been setting the wheel up against the rocks and using whatever grabs to crawl your way up!
I think the others are right, you don't need to trash another set of wheels, you need to keep practicing with these...
#30
I'd say switching to steel might be the way to go, but I wouldn't buy new if you plan to keep grinding them against the side of rocks. You can probably sell your alloys to someone who is willing to put a little time into refinishing them. It looks like possibly 3 can be saved, although one of the hits to the bead appears to have a crack in it. You should also check some salvage yards for older P38s. I found 2 in a yard near me that had steel spares that are the RRC114560MUW rims. And I'd paint them the color of the Series wheels which was Limestone. Buy plenty of extra so you can repaint them every time you go wheeling.
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TRIARII (07-02-2017)